case splitting woes

[dlr308]

3 days into trying to split case on 79sc.
Yes, I've checked all nuts and washers and thru-bolts a zillion times.
Have counted them all over and over - got them all.
I have hammered around any part of case that should stress seal with rubber mallet.
Have hammered on engine stand and heated case around seal with MAPP.

Finally using threaded rod and plates to push apart transmission studs on left side of case against engine yoke and that opens up a gap of about 1/8. But as I move that to a different part of the case any gaps close up again.

Has anyone got the Stromski case splitting tool in the LA area they would rent?
Can't think of anything else at this point.

[mepstein]

Steven brought his case splitting tool to our shop when he was in pre production. Works great.

[Lapkritis]

Try holding the 1/8" with a wooden wedge/shim before moving on.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[Richey]

Have you removed the 10 mm nut that is inside the timing chain opening ? I suspect not .

[dlr308]

Thanks - but yes got that nut too.
All 22 and the 11 thru bolts.

Anyone try the case splitter made for VWs? Goes in the sump hole and expands driving apart
the case - the price is right, but maybe not the size.

[safe]

Behind the oilcooler?
There is 36 nuts and bolts to remove. + the intermediate cover.

[r lane]

With the weight of the crankshaft pushing down on the lower half of the case as it hangs on the yoke, and a couple of nuts loose on the perimeter so it doesn't suddenly launch, you should see some movement at one end or the other.. The hidden fasteners are around the nose of the crankshaft, oil cooler area, left side chain cavity, and an odd one here and there. I use a block of wood and a 4 lb hammer. They can be stubborn. Bob

[dannobee]

Magnus is right; 36 total. 11 thru bolts, the two acorn nuts under the oil cooler, the one 10mm nut under the chain housing area, and the 22 8mm nuts around the perimeter.

[faapgar]

When my friend Peter Dawe worked for Andial he said they told him to bang on the engine yolk with a 5 lb sledge until the cases separated.A little wild huh.I love the Stromski tool.It is just way to civilized compared to the German tuetonic approach.Fred

[faapgar]

There are some Aviation Sealants that are quite glue like and if they were foolish enough to do the webs on either side of the main bearings it can be a bisch.Proceed with caution Weedhopper.

[1987 Porsche]

A tip I learned from (BoyT911sc) Tony was to place an expandable piece in between the two fan housing openings. As you turn this piece it expands pushing opening the case.

See pics. On mine I used what I had in the garage and turned the bolt out which pushed opened the case. Hope this helps. Hopefully Tony chimes in with a picture too.

[dlr308]

Thanks for all posts. Back from work and HD with new, beefed-up splitter - using 1/2 inch rod and thicker metal straps....old splitter might not have been robust enough.
First thing is to check all nuts again. I am a little freaked that I forgot something.
The only nut inside the case I removed is a 17mm one (gold in color) under one of the cam chains. Am I missing a 10mm somewhere else?

d

[dannobee]

That's the one. 17mm hex head but 10mm thread. You've removed the intermediate shaft cover/plug, right?

[dlr308]

Finally....got it.
With stronger splitter on tranny-engine stud and yoke - could tighten nuts easier and force case apart. Once I had right-side of flywheel end to about 1/2 inch separation, the left side popped as well. Then 5 minutes at the pulley end and it all opened up. 1 minute of gentle tapping and off came the case. No weird stuff on the case mating surfaces I think?!

Thanks to everyone for their comments and ideas. Don't think I could have separated the case halves without a couple of the tools that were posted on the forum. All I can probably add is that if your case doesn't come apart easily, don't beat it up with a rubber mallet for an afternoon!

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by 1987 Porsche

A tip I learned from (BoyT911sc) Tony was to place an expandable piece in between the two fan housing openings. As you turn this piece it expands pushing opening the case.

See pics. On mine I used what I had in the garage and turned the bolt out which pushed opened the case. Hope this helps. Hopefully Tony chimes in with a picture too.

Lou,

This is the crankcase splitter from the local hardware store that I used in my previous engine tear downs.







Using the right tools for your project/s is important to make the work easy and enjoyable. You don’t need expensive tools to do the job right. I have acquired an assortment of Stomski tools only after several successful engine rebuild projects.

Tony

[cmcfaul]

you missed a nut / bolt someplace.

dont f up your case. figure it out.

Chris

[Harpo]

Tony, what size are those fasteners?

Thanks

David

[boyt911sc]

David,

I used the 5/8” bolts, nuts, and turn buckle from Home Depot.



The turn buckle and bolts are 2” long. I cut and trimmed one of the bolts about 1/2” to fit. Expand the splitter to create some pressure and tap the one side of the crankcase using a piece of wood and hammer. Readjust the pressure and continue to spread the crankcase apart. Just make sure all the nuts are removed including the fine thread 10-mm nut inside the crankcase.

Tony

[Drummer]

Hope you find a way, strange you are not able to split it?, some strong sealant most have been used!

[dlr308]

Hi Everyone - thanks for all the replies - but I got the case apart some time ago - see thread 14. I just needed a lightly stronger splitter that separated the case at the flywheel with one end of splitter resting on engine yoke and the other end pushing against the transmission studs.

On the more positive side, 11 of 12 dilivar studs came out easy - double nutting and just a standard wrench with a good amount of heat from a MAPP torch. The last one took maybe 10 minutes of heating, wrench and vice grips half way down the shaft.