Heat the case around the stud like the others are saying, at which point my engine builder and myself flowed a bit of bees wax onto the stud that wicked into the threads. Hardest part was finding a "real" piece of bees wax. Best I could source was a Berts Bees lip balm (like a chap stik) with peppermint. It had the most bees wax of any of the Berts products. The studs smelled dandy coming out. Keep the heat on while you are turning the studs out, otherwise they tighten right back up.

dilavar is not the easiest to weld to its finikey with a rosin core mig .. i ran a few test welds on some already removed studs. as most if mine broke when i removed the nut but all broke up high but two. What ended up working the best i was able to get a solid weld with my tig welder i got the stud cherry red and kept feeding in the rod until it was full across the top then i heated the inside of the case on the stud and applied steady constant pressure just enough so it flexed but didn't break it took quite a bit of heat but the stud eventually let go..i highly recommend doing some test welds with old broken studs in a vice prior to the actual low stud removal weld.. this way you get a feel for the breaking point of the stud and don't over stress it. all the studs came out easy without heat but 1 the stubborn one took a good 3 or 4 minutes of medium even heating heating with a b tank until it finally let the stud go .. its a two person job one to heat and one to apply even pressure on the nut welded to the stud ..

Most of you guys had better luck than me.In all 6 broken studs.
We used Heat.A lot of heat.Studs still broke.A few we Tigged on nuts, either the weld broke or the stud did.
Various tools used.The best was a snap on Stud remover.Or a pair of Stillsons.
We even turned case upside down, holding stud in vice then applied heat.Still broke stud.
4 broke twice, second time at case level.I called out my thread guy Clint.He spent 3 hours drilling out the remnants and managed to save every thread.
He makes 90% of his living with Porsche stud/nut removalhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1578215384.jpg

I got my Dilivars out with a small pipe wrench and heat.

I was able to get all, but three out with a combo of things - pipe wrench, stud puller, and/or welding a nut on the end. There were three that I simply couldn't get so I took it to a machine shop where it could be managed a little better with proper equipment. I don't like to admit defeat, but I felt it was the best option. :(

Defeat is when you work beyond your abilities and hurt yourself or the part. Taking it to an expert before you are defeated is being smart.

If the studs are broken close to the case I take the case to the EDM people , not that expensive and no damage whatsoever .

A local EDM guy is probably safest. If I recall aluminum expands about 13 millionths per degree Fahrenheit, but don't quote me.

My acetylene torch has been a best friend for many years

Removed with following equipment everything from spending hours on board:
1. 1/4 inch bolt and nut remover for broken stud, around 1/4 inch above spigot was the top of a broken stud, tool worked perfectly, eats right into dilivar and steel.
2. 5/16-8mm for non-broken stud, damages threaded stud end, worked on all 22.
3. MAP Max Heat Torch Kit, Benzomatic (65$)
4. Apply heat to inside of spigot, earliest to come out was 25 thousand count, longest was 170 thousand count, 3min? My 13 year old son did excellent heat work. I would apply torque to socket wrench every 10 thousand count or so to check for movement, if no movement then relaxed in a waiting position with socket and wrench still in place. When it started to turn, I'd ask my son to pull back the heat, then when it was clearly coming out easily we'd shut it down.

For those in Canada, the bolt buster was nothing more than the Canadian Tire Maximum impact bolt & nut remover set. Paid 23$ bucks on sale. Careful with the spigot with studs that are broken 1/4 inch or so above it, I added a spacer washer inside the nut remover tool so that the end of the socket (closest to case/spigot) could not come in contact with the spigot. First try on threaded nut and you'll see how the fluted threads cut down and force the socket onto the stud. I also used a Dremel to even out the tops of the two broken studs before starting. There seemed to be clearance between the outer spigot wall and the nut socket, but I added the spacer washer just in case. Be aware of this. Sorry if it's too late for your work, but it may help another, I just wanted to give another thumbs up to these nut buster sockets as well. I think Irwin has the same thing, there is a youtube vid, that's where I got it from originally. Though I used heat as well, this forum.

Phil

To show detail of tool bite in and how far down the socket it goes. There seemed to be enough space between the socket outside wall and the near spigot wall (I thought a little could be shaved off the spigot wall in that area, you'll see when you get there, but probably not necessary) so that you might be able to actually remove broken studs that sit at or below the spigot height. Be careful once again, not to drive the socket into the case or spigot, I put a spacer/washer in the socket itself, etc.... you'll have to figure it out.



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The issue I ran into is that I think its corrosion between the stud and the case, not necessarily the loctite.

Any ideas?

I have had great luck with impact guns. Set at low torque, penetrating oil, and let her rip for 5-10 minutes. Just the vibration loosens it over time...

Any relation to Gaylord?

Sorry, I had to ask

heat, heat, heat...

No, Martha.

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Dont give up! After a week of sweating it, finally got all my broke one out.

Got mine out on a 3.0 930/10 with a mix of acetone/atf fluid mixed 50/50 soak for 24 hrs, heat the spigot with propane torch for 5 mns and then pipe wrench, they all came out no damage.