Engine vacumm conections

[Mortimer84]

Hello
I have a california 1981 sc targa . here is it





I rebuild engine but have 1 problem i think. I have 2 wires disconected




i think they are for a thermostart valve like this one. But i have an other type. Maybe the wires need to be disconected???





But my engine has a different system, that valve its more new and its in the other side of the engine.




I have an other problem, the WUR has one port disconected (yellow cap)


Needs to be conected, disconected???

In the engine compartiment i have this sticker



I use this schematic but in this donīt have the conections


its like the old one



someone can help me

regads

[Flat6pac]

The vacuum pod in pic 3 is 78/79 only
I don’t believe there is vacuum to the WUR, Tony can answer that, I just don’t recall
You’ll need to know the number on the WUR as they are specific to application
I don’t recall any WUR with vacuum from the side.
Longer wires could be to the blower fan for heat.
Bruce

[Mortimer84]

Hello. Thanks for the answer. Wires aren't for blower. Blower its connected and working well.
The colors of the wires are red/white and brown. In this schematic and with that connections is like it need the second
Thermovalve and the open port for the WUR it's like that two. I don't understand ....




Regards

[boyt911sc]

Mortimer,

1). The thermovalve is not used for CIS with lambda. Insulate the red wire connector for the TV. Once the FP is running, that red wire is energized.

2). The vacuum schematic diagram in your engine bay is for a MOTRONIC not applicable to CIS.

3). You have the wrong WUR (warm-up regulator). Since you have a CA car with lambda, you will need a WUR-090.

4). Could you post the Bosch ID # on top of the WUR? The numbers should read like 0 438 140 xyz. The last 3 digits (xyz) will identify a particular WUR.

Keep us posted.

Tony

[Mortimer84]

Hello
First thanks

1) perfect. I protect wires. Why cames with it?

2) second. The photo is for this engine. I think are original ones



3) and 4) I will try to see the number, but I don't have here the car and here we have to stay at home, can't go to the street (coronavirus). I will try my father see it because it's in his house but maybe he can't and I have to wait to see it.

Thanks for the help

[boyt911sc]

Mortimer,

Where are you located? That engine looks great. Clean and well restored. Take a picture of the sticker for the vacuum system to a local Porsche mechanic. He will tell you that the engine lid belongs to a Carrera 3.2 Motronic car. Your engine is a 3.0 liter SC.

Unless someone installed an SC motor to replace the 3.2 motor which I doubt. My guess about the WUR is it might be a -063 by its appearance. Keep us posted.

Tony

[Mortimer84]

Hello. I'm located in spain (galicia). Here in a local garage rebuild the engine. I think so good but now I'm driving and adjust it. I have now 2 fails. One : the thermostat of oil it's not working well, only in city if you are stopped temperature goes a little higher(I have a new one to instal)
Secong: in hot wen I stop the rpm continues high, I have to play with the accelerator to down it.

The wur is a 120, it's for other car!!
Maybe here is the reason? We are going to see if it was confused or cames from California with this one

[RedCoupe]

Zooming in on that last picture, it's for a 1989 Carrera 3.2.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Mortimer84

Hello. I'm located in spain (galicia). Here in a local garage rebuild the engine. I think so good but now I'm driving and adjust it. I have now 2 fails. One : the thermostat of oil it's not working well, only in city if you are stopped temperature goes a little higher(I have a new one to instal)
Secong: in hot wen I stop the rpm continues high, I have to play with the accelerator to down it.

The wur is a 120, it's for other car!!
Maybe here is the reason? We are going to see if it was confused or cames from California with this one

Mortimer,

Since your car was originally from California as you mentioned earlier, check your fuel distributor located top right side looking at the motor. Right behind the air filter housing you could see the ID tag for the FD. Please post the part number (0 438 100 xyz). The last 3 digits identify a particular FD.

Do you have the ECU (lambda unit) and OXS (oxygen sensor) installed and working? The EURO models don’t utilize them. Keep us posted.

Tony

[Mortimer84]

Yes. It's original California. Bigger specification of gases.
I know landa its disconnected. I'm going to connect it
Fuel distributor is 0 438 100 077 and ecu I don't know if is working, I have to check but I don't know what to check

Regards

[boyt911sc]

Mortimer,

You need to install compatible CIS components on your engine to make it run well. The WUR you have is -120 used in VW & Audi. It is vacuum assisted which is not compatible with FD-077. The ‘81~’83 SC USA/CA spec. come with ECU and OXS and WUR-090.

How is the car running without ECU and OXS disabled and with a vacuum assisted WUR-120? Keep us posted. Thanks.

Tony

[Mortimer84]

Hello Tony
First thanks for you help.

Second, car it's working well, hehehe, the only fail I think it's when I stop the car if it's hot the engine the rpm are hight and I have to accelerate without gear and go down . I speak with the mechanical and tell me he regulates the wur to goes ok the car.he tell me that he thinks all wur were similar and he thinks only change the regulation. He do it in others cars.

Maybe it's not with all the power... I don't know. The car is fast here. But now I what to put all working perfect.
I'm going to start connecting the lambda and looking for the 090 wur

Thanks again

[Mortimer84]

Wur its coming. In a few days maybe arrives, but until 3 weeks more I can't go out of home....

[Mortimer84]

Wur change, o2 sistem wasn't working, the relay was damage!! I change the relay and the landa. Now all working!!!
I have dudes how to adjust timing. There is a lot information but different.

I read:
With vacuum hoses disconnect ( I don't know if its necessary to plug them or not), adjust rpm at 900 and move timing to the 5 degree marker.

Its correct to maybe it's different in California 911 sc 1982??

[AndrewCologne]

Vacuum hoses disconnected, 5° BTDC at 850-950 rpm, advance should not exceed 15-20° at 3000 rpm and not 20-25° at 6000 rpm.

But these values are very conservative and depend on your fuel, here in Germany with 98 Octane Super Plus you can easely add more advance by adding 5-7°, means about 10° BTDC in total at idle. You'll feel a slightly better torque.


BTW: Check the link in my signature, theres a lot of info regarding your engine model.

[boyt911sc]

Mortimer,

So you have now a WUR-090? Is this a newly rebuilt and calibrated WUR-090? When you get chance, check the heater resistance (Ohms) value when the engine is cold. And post it. Thanks.

Tony

[Mortimer84]

The wur090 has the two resistance ok. I mesh and the value was correct. I have written at home but maybe was 9 or 14 oms the parallelof the two resistances. I calibrate the wur pressure with a pressure gauge. The only question i have I do it with engine working. It's ok? Or it's better do with engine off connecting the fuel pump?

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Mortimer84

The wur090 has the two resistance ok. I mesh and the value was correct. I have written at home but maybe was 9 or 14 oms the parallelof the two resistances. I calibrate the wur pressure with a pressure gauge. The only question i have I do it with engine working. It's ok? Or it's better do with engine off connecting the fuel pump?

Mortimer,

What are the values of your fuel pressures (CCP, WCP, & SP)? Did you get your WUR-090 from a rebuilder? Please double check your resistance value. If you are getting 9~10 Ohms please confirm. Thanks.

Tony

[gsxrken]

Tony- just have to post... you are an asset to this board. There are others, but you’re one of them. This is why I like PP forum so much. You probably saved this guy a few thousand dollars at a specialty shop. Keep up the good work!

[Mortimer84]

i have 9 oms in cold in the wur terminals. i adjust ussing this