67 cam chain tensioner fix.

[Lyndon302]

I rebuilt my tensioners. Apparently not very well. See pic after 50 miles or so.
It looks like the oil fed ones won't fit the early motor ??
Those collars are new and were tight. Motor was kicking upon stating after disi was out until I got my timing right. ??
What's my solution ?
Lyndon

[Richey]

Pressure fed won't fit . Did you update the idler gear arms ? How was your rebuild ? How do they compress in a vice ? Maybe get new ?

[Lyndon302]

Ok wont fit.
Rebuild went well I thought.
I will try in a vice.
I did have trouble compressing them to fit into my engine ??
Lyndon

[Trackrash]

Those are not the original '67 tensioners BTW. They look to be mid year units, but I can't read the numbers.

At any rate, are they spongy now when you push down on the plunger? They should be rock solid, even after being run for a while.

Not sure what you mean by oil lines. Carrera tensioners have external oil lines, but need updated cam covers to be installed. Carrera tensioners are not what you are showing in your picture.

[Flat6pac]

Install the collars after tensioner is installed.
Use a heavy screwdriver and insert between the idler and the opened tensioner, pressing down until you can tap the tensioner in place. Install the safe devices
Bruce

[Lyndon302]

Originally Posted by Trackrash

Those are not the original '67 tensioners BTW. They look to be mid year units, but I can't read the numbers.

At any rate, are they spongy now when you push down on the plunger? They should be rock solid, even after being run for a while.

Not sure what you mean by oil lines. Carrera tensioners have external oil lines, but need updated cam covers to be installed. Carrera tensioners are not what you are showing in your picture.

They are 930105501
What I'm saying is I can't upgrade to oil fed tensioners because I have a 67 engine.

[Lyndon302]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Install the collars after tensioner is installed.
Use a heavy screwdriver and insert between the idler and the opened tensioner, pressing down until you can tap the tensioner in place. Install the safe devices
Bruce

Bruce I did all that.
Am I correct in saying that they fill with oil while running . ( splash ) the. Act like a shock absorber. Its like a total loss system as they leak a bit ?
Mine are quite springy and stiff. If I fill and bleed them im sure they will be hard again..
My question is they were hard with oil when installed and now seem to have no oil.
It also looks like the collars would prevent the oil entering the cup when running 😦
Lyndon

[Lyndon302]

Is a solid tensioner an option. I. Have run these in bikes I have had.
Many tensioners have a ratchet and spring and the oil pressure takes up the slop till if gets to the next click on the ratchet.
Thoughts
Lyndon

[Trackrash]

Originally Posted by Lyndon302

They are 930105501
What I'm saying is I can't upgrade to oil fed tensioners because I have a 67 engine.

I have not heard that but you may be correct.

Originally Posted by Lyndon302

Bruce I did all that.
Am I correct in saying that they fill with oil while running . ( splash ) the. Act like a shock absorber. Its like a total loss system as they leak a bit ?
Mine are quite springy and stiff. If I fill and bleed them im sure they will be hard again..
My question is they were hard with oil when installed and now seem to have no oil.
It also looks like the collars would prevent the oil entering the cup when running ��
Lyndon

The tensioners you have are actually a good unit. There is a second piston at the top that works as a resovoir to make sure the main cylinder is always filled with oil. This will eventually leak out. My old ones lasted 15 years and probably 50K miles. So if you fill and bleed them correctly you will be good. These are not fed from splash like the original '67 units were.

There should never be any sponginess to the plunger. It should always be firm and you should not be able to compress it with your finger.

The safety clamps are a good idea. Solid racing tensioners are not a good idea.

[Jon B]

Originally Posted by Lyndon302

Am I correct in saying that they fill with oil while running . ( splash ) the. Act like a shock absorber. Its like a total loss system as they leak a bit ?
Mine are quite springy and stiff. If I fill and bleed them im sure they will be hard again..
My question is they were hard with oil when installed and now seem to have no oil.
It also looks like the collars would prevent the oil entering the cup when running 😦

Lyndon, those are genuine Porsche 930 tensioners. They're not original to your 67 engine, as Gordon said, but they're the best replacement options.
Richey asked if you updated your idler arms. If you're using 67 idler arms with those tensioners, they require spacers.

No, the 930 tensioners don't have open oil reservoirs like the original 67 tensioners did.
The tensioners should not be "springy" when properly assembled and bled. The pistons should be extremely slow to depress.

The collars require 3.5 mm clearance above the tensioner body when installed in a cold engine. If the clearance is less, you should remove the collars.

[Lyndon302]

After lunch I will bleed them again. My issue is They were bled 50 miles ago with the spacers set at the correct distance😦

[Lyndon302]

Is the special tool necessary to fit them or is a screwdriver ok

[Jon B]

Originally Posted by Lyndon302

After lunch I will bleed them again. My issue is They were bled 50 miles ago with the spacers set at the correct distance😦

Have you assembled and bled them according to factory instructions specifically for 930 tensioners?
Maybe you should describe how you bled them.
By "spacers set at the correct distance", do you mean the safety collars? If so, was the distance set with the tensioners installed on the engine?

[Lyndon302]

Originally Posted by Jon B

Have you assembled and bled them according to factory instructions specifically for 930 tensioners?
Maybe you should describe how you bled them.
By "spacers set at the correct distance", do you mean the safety collars? If so, was the distance set with the tensioners installed on the engine?

Yes spacers set in engine.
Don't recall the exact method of bleeding .
Reading this now

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/6126423-post8.html

[Lyndon302]

This is the kits I used

[Lyndon302]

Ok
Dry as a bone. I'm hoping it wasn't bled properly. All looks perfect inside. No scores etc.
After its done I can I can compress it . fit the tool and it will slowly raise after fitting . The oil remains in it but goes from one chamber to another ?
Lyndon

[Lyndon302]

My right hand idler. Suits the 930 tensioners??
Lyndon

[Jon B]

Originally Posted by Lyndon302

Ok
Dry as a bone. I'm hoping it wasn't bled properly. All looks perfect inside. No scores etc.
After its done I can I can compress it . fit the tool and it will slowly raise after fitting . The oil remains in it but goes from one chamber to another ?
Lyndon

Lyndon, this picture is missing some pieces. I see one piece in the plastic bag marked "used".
Are you using a 930 tensioner parts diagram for re-assembly?

[Lyndon302]

Originally Posted by Jon B

Lyndon, this picture is missing some pieces. I see one piece in the plastic bag marked "used".
Are you using a 930 tensioner parts diagram for re-assembly?

The bags are my old parts.

[Lyndon302]