Importance cleaning case after media / vapour blasting
 

Dear all,

I started a thread that changed direction and thought it could be interesting.....

It is about being fully aware to clean and removing blast media if a case has been media/vapour blasted / cleaned.

I started removing oil gallery plugs (and oil squirters)

Just have a look and see the importance:eek:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1600889699.JPG
Clearly one can see the what happened in the oil squirter after removing (drilling) the cap off.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1600889771.JPG
Picture of what came out of the main oil gallery. The other galleries were the same story!

just a warning for those who believe there case is clean(ed) after vapour / media blasting.

Cheers,
Bart

Amazing. Even getting 99% of it out leaves enough to destroy an engine in short order. I’d swap oil filters like underwear for the first few break in runs.

I restored a musclecar in early 2000s that included using a tremendous amount of sandblasting media. Even after blowing out, zinc washing, painting etc, for years afterward I would still find sand in the carpet from the cowl area. It just gets everywhere.

When I vapor blast a part especially a case I use silicone plugs on all oil galley holes et, it keeps a lot out, then I remove every plug, piston squirters et. Then I soak case Use bottle brushes and agitate several times, then it goes into the ultrasonic cleaner, then Rinse inspect repeat as needed.
In my opinion it’s worth the extra effort to have a new looking case.
I could never do a part and return it to a person without making sure it’s totally clean inside and out.
It’s either lack of knowledge, laziness, or just not giving a damn to return a case full of crap to somebody.

In my opinion, non-dissolving blasting media shouldn't be allowed in the same room as the motor, never mind being used to make your case look pretty.

For sure I have mixed feelings Chris!
Point is that I bought this relative rare case and afterwards found out of the media....

So then there is only cleaning, cleanin and cleaning...and then again and again...
(Other cases I never went beyond ultrasonic cleaning)

First I wouldn’t blast anything with oil passages, if I got one it would go in the ultrasonic cleaner while flushing the oil passages for several hours. That’s what I do with oil coolers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, sometimes we have work with what we've got.

• I would recommend gun cleaning brushes and a brass or aluminum cleaning rod to clean those passages.
• I would avoid the bronze brushes as they tend to break off bristles.
• I prefer stainless and plastic brushes.
• A long ultrasonic bath spa treatment will make your case feel better after you brush it (Calgon, take me away!).

.

Agreed 100%

^^^ THIS ^^^

Might as well build the engines right next to the brake lathe if you don't care about cleanliness.

Yes, media blasting makes it come out clean, but that stuff gets everywhere, and all it takes is a little bit left over to trash your engine. It's a little late now, but ultrasonic cleaning with the right chemicals is the way to go, short of dry ice blasting it.

Anyone who sand blasts an engine case is a criminal.

One of my mentors used to sand blast 4-cam heads and then place them on a hot plate to bring them up to temperature. When the metal expanded they would “sweat” sand.

Just saying.....

So what's the best way to clean the mating surfaces of the case halves ?
I had my engine case cleaned at the machine shop. It did clean the case but it did not clean the mating surfaces. So back to square one. I really do not want to remove all of the outer case studs but may have to. Anyone?

just say no!
 

Agreed......sand or plastic media is just clean dirt.....

regards,
al

YMMV, but I can tell you I was happy with my results. I tried a number of different cleaners, none of which were tackling the stuck on stuff on my 200K mile Carrera 3.2 case halves and Camshaft Carriers. I ended up buying 2 gallons of Carburetor cleaner, and just basting the engine components for several days in a rubbermaid storage container. would pour over the top, and let sit for 8 hours or so. little scrubbing with medium brush here and there. Reorient part, pour more over top. repeat over and over again. much less elbow work. Took a while, but I was not in a hurry. For the case parting lines and other surfaces where there was adhesive, loctite, remaining gasket material, etc. I tried everything other than a razor blade, because I was so scared of gouging the soft aluminum. No chemical products or scotchbrite pads worked like I had hoped so switched to razor blades. Was done in 1/10th of the time I had in to it. no scratches, no gouges. worked great. I would say it requires a modicum of fine motor control with your hands and working confidently, but not aggressively. I brought my case halves to a local highly respected head and engine rebuilder with many years of 911 engine experience (now retired), and he said he thought they looked great.

Mark

Berryman Chem-Dip will turn the old 574 into a snot that can be removed with ease