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As for the case, Ollie's did great work considering how twisted it was. They had to take 0.035" off to get it back to standard. They did align bore, but couldn't get it back to the minimum size. Quote:
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Bolted on some of the ancillaries...
Got the chain rails installed and a titanium RSR crank pulley from EB Motorsport. I'm a sucker for titanium! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1745635999.jpg Updated oil pressure reliefs, oil connection, and sump plate with titanium drain plug from EB Motorsport bolted on with PVD coated titanium M6 socket cap screws and washers... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1745635999.jpg Breather cover, oil thermostat, and oil pressure switch. I got a little sloppy with the paint pen, but at least I know they are torqued... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1745635999.jpg Question...I'm installing carbs, so is there any good reason to keep these three studs installed? I'm thinking I'll remove these... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1745635999.jpg Onward... |
Are the intakes and exhaust ports wide open ? Fab engine!
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Are the ports wide open ?
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Preparing for the next phase of assembly, I moved on to measuring the cylinder to piston clearances, ring gaps, and installing the pistons in the cylinders.
First measured the cylinders... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746322907.jpg Then each of the pistons... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746322907.jpg Per MAHLE's spec sheet, clearance is 0.0254mm to 0.046mm. Did a little mixing and matching to get them as even as possible. All came out within range. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746323058.png Moved on to checking the ring gaps... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746322907.jpg The spec for the top ring is 0.017" and they all started with a gap of about 0.007". About 200 turns on the manual ring file and test fitting 20 times each, got them done. Fortunately, only the top rings needed filing. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746322907.jpg Cleaned and prepped for assembly... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746322907.jpg Rings installed on the piston... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746322907.jpg Insert using a tapered spring compressor... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746322907.jpg Say a prayer, then BINGO! Installed and ready to go... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1746324508.jpg Onward... |
Now to check actual deck height...
Back in post #48, I measured the case and other parts and, using a 1mm base shim in my spreadsheet, I calculated the deck height to be 0.79mm (0.031"). Let's see how things look in reality... Started with a 1mm shim supplied by Ollie's... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1747279052.jpg Installed the piston and cylinder and found TDC... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1747279052.jpg Deck height turned out to be 0.85mm (0.0335"). Pretty close to what I expected... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1747279052.jpg When I measured on the opposite side of the piston, I got 0.029". This is a little too close for my comfort. I could stack a 0.25mm and a 1mm shim together to get a better deck height, but this would be about 1.14mm and would lower my compression ratio to 9.98. So doing some googling, I found Hussey Performance who makes custom gaskets in any thickness in 0.001" increments. I gave them a call, sent them one of my shims from Ollie's, and two weeks later got a pack of 6 shims for $150... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1747279052.jpg I ordered the shims in a 0.047" thickness, which measured out to be 1.204mm... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1747279052.jpg Put everything back together and got a deck height of 0.042" or 1.07mm... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1747279052.jpg It took a lot of futzing around, but I think this is a good result. I could have ordered the shims in a 0.046" thickness, but I decided I'd rather err on the side of caution. With this deck height, the calculated compression ratio is 10.06. In case anyone is wondering, I've checked the Harbor Freight caliper against my feeler gauges, and it is surprisingly accurate. Onward... |
Ward and others: FYI, I'm currently running a 103mm forged piston in a motorcycle engine with iron sleeve and .025" clearance and no contact with the head up to 7000 RPM. Per David Vizard, in small block American V8 engines, you can get down to .018" before contact if your pistons don't rock much (e.g., hyper-eutectic cast pistons). The clearances of pistons to aluminum cylinders in Porsche air-cooled engines are pretty tight, therefore they don't rock much either, so I would not be concerned with a .029" piston/head clearance. I have around .030" in my current engine.
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After ruining two rear main seals using the "PVC pipe" technique, I opted for the "proper" P215 tool...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748731266.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748731266.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748731266.jpg That was much easier! Ready to install the pistons and cylinders. Everything prepped and a little bead of Curil T on the base gaskets... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748733656.jpg Using the Supertec head studs makes attaching them to the connecting rods much easier. However, a word of caution...My casesavers were not perfectly perpendicular to the case, which caused the studs to "porcupine". This became a real nightmare getting a few of the studs screwed into the case. When I do this again, I will install the studs first. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748731941.jpg Seeing that threaded hole in the adapter on the crankshaft gave me an idea...looks like a great place to mount a degree wheel... Bought a degree wheel and positive stop to find TDC... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748732480.jpg Attached the degree wheel to the flywheel side using the RMS tool and made a pointer out of a coat hanger with a little yellow paint on the end. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748732480.jpg I realize that the wheel turns "backwards," but I really just need an accurate TDC for when I get to the cam timing. Cheap and hopefully effective! Onward... |
Ward,
Amazing attention to detail on this build. You asked about the three studs for carbs. I would remove those and plug the holes in the shroud. For the back two holes I just put a nice Bolt and washer in. I used a rubber plug for the 3rd hole where the spacer sits. |
This is my engine. There are many like it, but this one is mine...
I like the look of the 906 cooling tins, so I bought a set from EB Motorsport. When I went to install them, it became obvious that the 906 cylinder is not the same size as my 93mm cylinders from LN. The hole for the spring retainer was about a half inch past the barrel... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748909906.jpg Drew up a modified version in CAD and had SendCutSend laser cut them out of Grade 2 titanium... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748909906.jpg The part as delivered... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748909906.jpg And installed... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748909906.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1748909906.jpg Onward... |
Nice
I believe Henry and the guys at Supertek make/sell them . |
Nice
I believe Henry and the guys at Supertek make/sell them . |
It sure is a cool time to live when you have Fusion 360 (and tons of Youtube tutorials) available for free, and then a service like SCS to make custom parts like that for you for a very reasonable price!
Great work as usual! |
Time to install the heads and cam housings...
Heads refurbished, intakes ported, and twin plugged by CGarr... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1749005705.jpg Intakes opened up to 37mm... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1749005705.jpg Installed on the cylinders... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1749005705.jpg Loctite 574 (over) applied to the cam housing... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1749005705.jpg And installed... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1749005705.jpg Starbase, we have a problem (or two)... |
I ran into a couple of issues.
The first problem was that I'm a doofus... My 15mm 12-point deep socket didn't fit through the cam housing, preventing me from getting to the head stud nuts to torque them down. Figuring that a semi-deep socket would work, I bought a Snap-on socket off ebay. When it arrived, I could get past the housing and down into the hole. At this point I realized that the nut was 14mm and my deep socket that I already had would fit great. Not a big deal, really. I'm just out $50 for a socket that I'll probably never use. Anyone need a Snap-on 15mm 12-point semi-deep socket? I'll make you a deal... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750029684.jpg My second problem was a little more serious. When torquing down the cam housing to the heads, this nut wouldn't tighten past 15NM... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750031134.jpg The only way to assess the situation and repair the damage was to tear everything apart... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750029684.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750029684.jpg Threads on the stud basically disintegrated... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750029684.jpg Removed all the Loctite 574 and replaced the stud with an extra one I had in my stash... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750029684.jpg All back together... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750029684.jpg Onward... |
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Nice build. Were the deck heights on each cylinder the same?
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This is a very nice build! Also all the photos and info are great as I will be rebuilding my engine soon too. Thanks!
What oil pump did you use btw? |
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I see you have those vertical marks in your barrels... |
Time to prep the chain housings for installation.
Apply Dykem... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750460076.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750460076.jpg Sanded flat... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750460076.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750460076.jpg Apply Loctite EA 9340 epoxy... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750460076.jpg Found a "worm hole" in the magnesium... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750460076.jpg Not the best picture, but filled it up with the Loctite EA 9340 epoxy and sanded smooth... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750460076.jpg Onward... |
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The vertical marks definitely gave me a bit of a scare when I pulled the heads off. I think I've done everything correctly...checked all the clearances, ring gaps, ring orientation, deburred the rings, proper oiling on the rings, piston skirts and barrels. Not sure why these are showing up. They cannot be felt. I sent a picture to Mahle tech support to see what they think, but they haven't responded. Hopefully they're nothing serious...I guess I'll find out when I start it up! |
Time to install the chain housings and camshafts.
Dougherty Racing DC 43x-102 camshaft cleaned and ready to install... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750626804.jpg Left side done... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750626804.jpg Right side done... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750626804.jpg Check for parallelism on the right side. Got within 0.03mm with three shims... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750626804.jpg Started with three shims on the left hand side, but had to add a fourth. Hit the mark exactly. Probably helps that I replaced all of the sprockets with new... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750626804.jpg Onward... |
I discovered vertical marks in my cylinders caused by wrong size oil rings during a rebuild. It looked exactly like what is showing in your pictures. I ended up pulling the cylinders off and deglazing them, I could not remove the vertical lines completely. After installing different rings I ended up with 5% leakdown after break in.
I think that your oil rings aren’t right. |
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I called MAHLE Motorsports today and spoke to Jason. He's the guy that's in a lot of their YouTube videos. Anyway, after speaking to him and emailing him pictures, he said that "the 'ghost' streaks you cannot catch your nail on are normal." Since I can't catch a fingernail on these marks or feel them in any way, I'm crossing my fingers and moving forward... |
With the camshafts and chain housings installed, moved on to installing the sprockets...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750890879.jpg Tried turning the engine over, but nope! Something is binding up. If this picture was at all legible, you'd see that the chain slipped off the intermediate shaft sprocket... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750890879.jpg After realigning the chain, I rebuilt the idler arms using new sprockets and the upgraded arms from Supertec. This shaft was toast and had to be replaced... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750890879.jpg Installed those along with some DIY dummy chain tensioners made from $10 in aluminum tubing and two M10 bolts and nuts... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750890879.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750890879.jpg Onward... |
Time for rocker arms, etc.
Checked all of the rocker shafts. Spec is 17.992mm to 18.000mm. Six of the shafts were out of spec and trashed. I'm trying my best to avoid any leaks... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750982117.jpg My camshaft housings were pretty beat up and had some damage to the shaft bores before Ollie's refurbished them. For extra insurance, I'm using the TurboKraft rocker shaft locks and RSR seals. Rocker arms were refurbished by Dougherty Racing, I replaced the elephant foot adjusters and lock nuts with new, and freshly black oxided bolts by me... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750982117.jpg #1 intake installed... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750982117.jpg After buying an indicator with a 3/8" stem to fit in the Stomski Racing tool, I was able to set valve clearance to 0.10mm... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750982117.jpg And on #1 exhaust... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750982117.jpg With the rockers in and valve clearances set, I rotated the engine to verify all was good. Nope! The motor locked up after about 60 degrees of rotation. Backwards... |
Is your cam timing in the ballpark? If not, set that first.
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Do you mean that you were rotating the engine anti clockwise?
Just trying to understand. I think the Dempsey book told me not to do that at this point. I have really enjoyed following your build thus far. |
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I was a little too rough when I roughed in the cams and was rotated about 15 degrees (clockwise) off from vertical. Yellow line shows where the dot on the cams was pointing, green line is where it should've been (adjusting for parallax). I'm assuming that when I turned the engine over, the valve was touching the piston and that's why it was locking up. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1751654484.jpg Quote:
Glad you're enjoying my build! Onward... |
On to cam timing, rocker installation, valve clearances, and chain tensioners!!!
Rotate to TDC using my degree wheel as a reference. I cut the pointer to a sharp point and I line that up with the right side of the 0-degree hash. Not as good as the digital degree wheel, but I can get very close with pretty good consistency. And it was only $20... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1751759006.jpg The range on the DC43x-102 cams is 4.4 - 4.6mm. Got the left side set at 4.49mm... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1751759006.jpg After four attempts, I got the right side set at 4.53mm. It's basically just the "slop" in the pin hole the causing the difference between the two sides. I can't consistently hit a number after torquing. It's somewhat random. It's going to be hard for my OCD to live with, but I'm calling a 0.04mm difference good. Unless I shouldn't... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1751759006.jpg Timing done! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1751759006.jpg Got all the rockers installed and valve clearances set... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1751759006.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1751759006.jpg Rebuilt chain tensioners by Glenn Yee Motorsports installed... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1751760497.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1751759006.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1751759006.jpg Onward... |
that accuracy is pretty good. The engine won't be able to tell ;)
I think OCD is a healthy quality for this part of the build.. I take vids of my cam timing.. here's one I did recently.. https://youtu.be/orQf6tUtC_s?si=iAY1miMHax-9iC29&t=565 |
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Time to start closing things up...
Installed new M6 studs into the chain housings... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1752445244.jpg Applied Dykem to the chain housing "lid"... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1752445244.jpg Sand and repeat until flat... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1752445244.jpg And installed. I had Simo at SVAUTO vapor hone the magnesium housings and covers... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1752445244.jpg Onward... |
Absolutely beautiful work thus far. Unfortunately you overlooked a serious problem.
You installed a set of 47mm, 4 bearing cams in a set of early 47mm 4 journal housing but you didn't drill the housings to oil the 4th journal. It an easy fix but if you ignore it, the cam will seize in the housing. I posted a thread on the subject called "billet cams in 2.7 housings". Check it out. https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/1084118-billet-cams-2-7-cam-towers.html http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1752447740.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1752447740.jpg BTW: nice looking idler arms :) |
Thanks for pointing that out Henry! Definitely a doofus move on my part!
From reading that post you linked to, and this other post of yours, it looks like I need to tear everything back down and remove the cam towers to be drilled out. Correct? Do you still offer the service to convert them? Quote:
Waaaaaaay backwards!!! |
Yes, we can convert them for you.
Your cam towers look great but we have a complete restoration service for those who want it. We can also convert 3 and 4 journal 47mm cam towers to 49mm. After extensive deflection testing we have great confidence in the ability to use 3 journal cam housings on larger engines. The 49mm cams are incredibly stout. That is not to say you should/can use 47mm cams on 3.0+ engines. They don't work well. |
I would be buying Henry a steak dinner right now if I were you! I hope he is looking over my shoulder when I finally go into mine.
John |
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Also, thanks to this forum, including Henry, for looking over my shoulder during my rebuild. The main reason I've posted a million pictures of stupid stuff is, in case I make a doofus mistake, someone might catch it and point it out. |
Sometimes to go forwards, one must go backwards...
Took apart the "front end" of the engine, including the cams, sprockets, etc.... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1753045224.jpg Removed the entire top end... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1753045224.jpg Back down to the cylinders...at least I get to use my fancy cylinder hold downs again... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1753045224.jpg I removed my timing degree wheel before I knew I'd be going down this road. This time around, I'm going to fashion something a little different... Time for lots of cleaning! Onward... |
But wait...time for another detour!
Noticed this "gouge" in the exhaust valve stem tip... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1757111632.jpg I decided to replace it with a new TRW valve... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1757111632.jpg Procured some prussian blue (hey, I'm Prussian, too!) to check how well the valve seats... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1757111632.jpg New valve made perfect contact with the seat. I'm skipping any valve lapping on this, especially since this practice is now frowned upon by most engine builders... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1757111632.jpg Put the springs and retainer back on... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1757111632.jpg Using a $20 valve spring compressor from Amazon, got the keepers in and done... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1757111632.jpg Unfortunately, it's about 120 degrees in my garage this time of year, so I get to spend very little time working on the engine. Onward... |
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