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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 1,113
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Internal Oil Pump
Would any of the 'experts' out there hesitate to use a 'USED' /upgraded internal oil pump in your re-build ??
Initially, as long as you look the pump over real good, I didn't see any problem... I know a lot of people have done it... Recent comments from a few buds have me second-guessing.
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Richard W. Red '70 E, 2.2 White (w/ Red & Blue), '82SC, "Frankenstein" -a bit tweeked |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Central Fla
Posts: 1,864
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pump
Those pumps are useable for a long time provided they have not ingested trash, take the pump apart and inspect it to be sure.
Mike Bruns JBRacing.com
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The two most useless things to a driver are the braking distance behind you and nine-tenths of a second ago. |
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Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
Posts: 16,639
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I'm no expert since I have the experience of one modified 930 oil pump in my 3.0L. That said, it puts out some hefty oil pressure. My mechanical oil pressure gauge shows almost 100 psi at startup when cold (50-60F ambient temp) and on the track at wide open throttle its always at 80 psi from 4500 up to 7000
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Kevin L '86 Carrera "Larry" |
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up-fixing der car(ma)
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New is not necessary...
I would:
1) Get a good used one with some nice-looking gears, one that hasn't ingested engine parts. 2) Take it apart and mark the gears so you put them back together in the same orientation. 3) Check for any burrs inside of the housings. Using a *very light* scuffing with 3M pad or similar remove these burrs. Beyond that, do NOT polish or otherwise remove material from the housing. [There are race mods expertly done that are OK, I'm keeping it simple.] 4) Clean, clean, clean all the parts. How to improve the end-play (axial movement): 5) Get a 'sacrificial' feeler gauge. Cut all the blades into 1/4" squares, try not to deform the edges. Keep track of which is which! 7) Remove four bolts and back housing. Place feeler gauge on top of the flat part of the gears. 8) Reassemble oil pump, keeping it vertical so the feeler gauge piece stays in place. 9) Repeat as necessary going up in increments of 0.001" until you have a 0.005" feeler blade in there. 10) If you still have end-play, keep going up in size of the feeler blades, until you run out of endplay. 11) Take that number, subtract 0.005" and then mill the end housing down by that much. 12) Clean very well to make sure no shavings or debris present. 13) Reassemble with assembly lube (recommend Clevite 77 Bearing Guard)
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Scott Kinder kindersport @ gmail.com |
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Registered
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Just a silly question but couldn't you use plastigauge to measure the endplay?
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