Engine fixture fitting on engine stand

[WYDBODY1986]

Does anybody see a problem with how the fixture fits on the engine stand? It’s a bit smaller diameter

[thetorch]

I had that problem. It made turning it difficult as it was binding. There is a plastic bottle trick that works (cutup a tonic bottle to go between the yoke and stand + a little lithium grease).

I found later than just spraying the yoke and holder with dry graphite spray did the trick without the plastic bottle.

If you drill a hole in the through portion of the yoke you can put a 1/2" rod with a collar or o-rings to keep it from sliding out. Makes rotating a complete engine much easier.

[WYDBODY1986]

That’s a great idea, the yoke sliding out when I try to rotate it is exactly what I was afraid of

[David Inc.]

Originally Posted by WYDBODY1986

That’s a great idea, the yoke sliding out when I try to rotate it is exactly what I was afraid of

I had the same problem, but with the yoke greased up with bearing grease the weirdest thing happened...when I turn it it doesn't move in or out at all, like it's totally bound axially but is more than happy to rotate. Very strange but very happy to see it!

[Ken911]

I had the same problem. i cut the top off then had a piece pf chrome moly turned to fit. then welded that on.

[safe]

Originally Posted by Ken911

I had the same problem. i cut the top off then had a piece pf chrome moly turned to fit. then welded that on.

A tiny, tiny bit worse than the OP!

Nice fix!

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Ken911

I had the same problem. i cut the top off then had a piece pf chrome moly turned to fit. then welded that on.

You simply have the wrong type of engine stand for the engine yoke. I have 5 engine yokes with 4 different engine stands bought from Harbor Freight. No cutting or welding needed.

Tony

[scootermcrad]

I just stumbled on this. Good timing! I just got the yoke I ordered and will be putting my engine up on a stand. I also wondered about the small gap and what to do about it. Didn't think it would be a big deal, but seems I'll take a closer look at it. Great thinking about drilling for a cross bar to turn it. Definitely going to do that.

While we're on the subject, I have a question. I've searched around a bit and didn't see the answer I was looking for. I have a 2.2L mag case motor that I need to mount to the yoke. The engine was partially disassembled when I got it and it doesn't seem I have the transmission mounting hardware. I had seen where several people recommended using M10-1.5 studs, but I can't seem to find an appropriate length or part number to purchase them. Can someone point me in the right direction? I have seen 102mm mentioned, 70mm, 92, and even saw a video where someone mentioned maybe using 79mm long studs, but no confirmation on anything for a mag case motor. This engine will be on the stand for a long time, so it doesn't have to be the final hardware, but I need something to secure this thing and get started. Thought about using something that was just long enough for the yoke to be secured without whipping up spacers on the lathe.

Thanks for any help. Hopefully this was a productive tangent and not a de-railer.

[Walt Fricke]

Scooter - why not just measure things - the depth of the threads on the engine, the thickness of the various holes through the transmission flanges, add for a nut and washer, and purchase studs - maybe if in the middle of the length range of standard studs, go to the next longer one. For the starter area stud, switch to a regular nut, not that barrel nut, so having the stud a bit too long won't be an issue.

The 72-3 parts catalog ought to be available from Porsche on line. It has these stud lengths. The top one across from the starter, for instance, is listed as 102mm. If the 911 transmission flanges are the same thickness as the 915, that catalog should work. Maybe the catalog for your earlier model is on line also, and has that information. They are not all the same length.

102

[Walt Fricke]

My inexpensive FLAPS engine stand had an ID for the yoke I had which was not much larger than the OD of the yoke part, so not really an issue. Ken's, on the other hand, certainly required that he make a bushing!

I won't reveal how I know how important it is to be able to drop something round through holes in both the stand and yoke round parts, so a horizontal pull on the engine won't cause horizontal movement, particularly if your stand is on wheels and you are trying to move it about in your garage. Pinning it into a rotational position is also handy, so having two holes 90 degrees apart is also useful, if you don't have a functioning pinch system like the factory holder.

[scootermcrad]

Originally Posted by Walt Fricke

Scooter - why not just measure things - the depth of the threads on the engine, the thickness of the various holes through the transmission flanges, add for a nut and washer, and purchase studs - maybe if in the middle of the length range of standard studs, go to the next longer one. For the starter area stud, switch to a regular nut, not that barrel nut, so having the stud a bit too long won't be an issue.

The 72-3 parts catalog ought to be available from Porsche on line. It has these stud lengths. The top one across from the starter, for instance, is listed as 102mm. If the 911 transmission flanges are the same thickness as the 915, that catalog should work. Maybe the catalog for your earlier model is on line also, and has that information. They are not all the same length.

102

Thanks Walt. Yeah, I think I'll just order the right length for the yoke and call it a day. It will be quite awhile before this thing sees a starter, let alone a trans. I'll revisit the correct hardware when I buy all the new hardware for the rebuild.

[Walt Fricke]

Well, won't your yoke work with the proper engine studs? Why do the work twice. I often end up adding spacers used like washers before putting the nut on, if the stud sticks out too far. Works fine with FLAPS engine stands, which tend to have arms thinner than 911 transmission flanges.

You do have your transmission handy to measure?

I think it is a good idea to minimize the number of times you remove a stud (or bolt which threads into the case) from a mag case. Unless you or a predecessor installed an insert because threads had weakened, that is.

[Ken911]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

You simply have the wrong type of engine stand for the engine yoke. I have 5 engine yokes with 4 different engine stands bought from Harbor Freight. No cutting or welding needed.

Tony

I wanted the one with two legs so i could run a floor jack under it to lift the engine. I had a stand that the yoke would fit, but it had a center leg.

[Ken911]

Originally Posted by Walt Fricke

My inexpensive FLAPS engine stand had an ID for the yoke I had which was not much larger than the OD of the yoke part, so not really an issue. Ken's, on the other hand, certainly required that he make a bushing!

I won't reveal how I know how important it is to be able to drop something round through holes in both the stand and yoke round parts, so a horizontal pull on the engine won't cause horizontal movement, particularly if your stand is on wheels and you are trying to move it about in your garage. Pinning it into a rotational position is also handy, so having two holes 90 degrees apart is also useful, if you don't have a functioning pinch system like the factory holder.

i didnt make a bushing i cut the whole top off and welded the new piece that had been turned onto the post.

[scootermcrad]

Originally Posted by Walt Fricke

Well, won't your yoke work with the proper engine studs? Why do the work twice. I often end up adding spacers used like washers before putting the nut on, if the stud sticks out too far. Works fine with FLAPS engine stands, which tend to have arms thinner than 911 transmission flanges.

You do have your transmission handy to measure?

I think it is a good idea to minimize the number of times you remove a stud (or bolt which threads into the case) from a mag case. Unless you or a predecessor installed an insert because threads had weakened, that is.

I don't have a transmission for this car, yet. Will be looking for a 915, before too long. But, when going out to verify case threads and engagement, I found something is not right, compared to what the PET is calling out for stud threads. I have a feeling my findings will either lead to a whole new thread or just going to the corner and crying. I don't want to clutter this thread up with my issues. In general, YES. I agree. One and done on the studs would be ideal, once I figure out what I need.