Rocker shafts

[welshdragon]

Do the rocker shafts fit in either way into the cam carrier
Cheers

[mtb001]

Per Bentley manual, on 3.2 L
2 and 5 can go either way,
cylinder 1 install 5 mm facing cylinder 2,
cylinder 4 install 5 mm toward 5,
cylinder 3 install 5 mm toward 2,
cylinder 6 install 5 mm toward 5

[David Inc.]

You want the head of the bolt facing towards the openings in the head so that you can remove the bolt without disassembly. That's all.

[welshdragon]

Thanks folks
That makes sense and how I refitted them
Cheers

[john walker's workshop]

Always remove and install them through the narrow boss. Less chance of scratching the bore that way due to no dirt in that direction. The wide boss is potentially dirty and gritty. Scratched bores give oil a path out.

[David Inc.]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

Always remove and install them through the narrow boss. Less chance of scratching the bore that way due to no dirt in that direction. The wide boss is potentially dirty and gritty. Scratched bores give oil a path out.

Man I wish I saw this post last week.

[Walt Fricke]

Hell, I wish I had seen John's post 30 years ago! Talk about the obvious hidden in plain sight.

As to how bolts face, I've installed the shafts starting with #1 and #4 on the engine stand, with the chain boxes on, so all the bolt heads face the flywheel. That way I could use my 3/8" torque wrench with extensions down to each in turn. If I had to get to shaft hardware later, I improvised and used bad language. But now I have a 1/4" torque wrench, so should point the end shaft hardware toward the middle of the engine

[john walker's workshop]

5mm allen facing inward on the ends and flush with the narrow boss in the middle. There's a reason for that.

[Walt Fricke]

Why does the allen head location matter for #2 and 5, which are equally accessible either way?

[gled49]

Bolt head location on 2&5 doesn’t matter, I’m right handed so I put them on the right.

[Walt Fricke]

Yes, but when John says something, I listen.

[targa72e]

I have always done as Walt does for the same reason. Maybe lucky in that I have never had to touch a rocker shaft after install unless something bigger in the bottom end was a problem. Can see the reasoning for install facing different directions. Will probably continue doing the same until it bites me then justify a new tool (1/4) small torque wrench. If I am lucky i will never need that tool

john

[Jeff Alton]

Walt,

It does not matter.

Are people worried about replacing shafts/rockers in car? No thanks. There is a bigger problem if you need to service one. For the short time it takes to drop the motor out, we will do that.

Cheers

[john walker's workshop]

5mm flush with trhe narrow boss on 2 and 5 is how the factory did it. Like stated previously, it doesn't really matter on those which way the 5mm points. It does matter for the outer ones, because they can only be loosened by the 5mm end, and you can't get at the 5mm end in several places on an assembled engine.

[Walt Fricke]

There are a few occasions where dealing with rocker shafts with the engine in the car makes sense.
If a shaft moves, you can reposition and tighten. If a rocker breaks, you can replace it. If you notice a valve spring retainer has cracked, you can replace that. If a valve spring breaks, it too can be replaced in situ - not that diagnosis would be easy, or the work easy. I've done all of these.

I've been lucky in a way. I don't recall having to deal with #3 or #6 rockers outside of rebuilds. Those intakes would require very long arms?

But I take the point that for most owners the need to deal with rockers other than as part of a rebuild , top end or full, with the engine out of the car, seems remote.

[Jeff Alton]

Walt,

I agree, one has to ask what went wrong that I am pulling a rocker shaft? Likely needs more attention than a replacement. A worn arm likely means a worn cam lobe. Not being done in car. A leaking shaft, sure, put on the RSR seal and repair. A shaft that walked out of the bore? Ok, try a repair in car. But if more than one, engine is coming out. It takes little time and allows far better access and assessment. If it has leaking shafts, it likely needs other work as well. All will be done far quicker with engine out of car (including re/re of engine/gearbox) in a properly equipped facility.

I have a 69 with the "tourist kit" which includes valve springs, head gaskets, valve retainers, base gaskets, timing box and cover gaskets etc. Very cool kit.

But, are we at a point now where we are chucking a few parts in to finish our trip, or have we evolved to a point where we figure out what happened and repair it properly.....

[Ken911]

if they keep walking then the bore in the cam tower is likely oversized from them being overtightened in the past. Turbokraft sells a rocker arm lock kit that will stop that from happening.

[Walt Fricke]

I don't recall, from catalog pictures and similar not personal sources, that the Turbocraft design incorporates an extra seal to stop leaks. Sure looks like the shaft can't move, though. The only large shaft leaks I have had were from a shaft moving. Otherwise, just a slightly wetter motor, and more grunge in the spaces around the shaft ends.