I hadn’t seen this before…
 

The oi pressure sender in the lower oil gallery required some work. You have to remove the plug and tap with appropriate threads (or in this case maybe close). plenty of solutions with pressure light and sensor in one to avoid doing this.

john

You mean like in this photo??

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1300923901.jpg

Not an uncommon location....and better than the breather cover.

In a perfect engine, no sealant would ever be required. Unfortunately, no engine is ever perfect and we never are prepared to take the risk.

Give someone a tube to squeeze, how do you tell them, don't squeeze too much???

Just think of the cleanup, it’ll peel right off…except in the oil galleys, rocker oilers, the piston squirters, on and on.
Bruce

No, Some early cars did not have a oil pressure sender like the one circled in red. They only had the switch for the light.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1668109172.jpg

You can get early and late (993) senders that have a oil pressure switch for the light and a sender for the gauge all in one. That would have been easier than tapping front for sender.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1668109259.jpg


john

I have a supposed 4.0l built by MotorMeister that will be disassembled early next year. I'll bring you guys on the road to discovery as it comes apart :) I'm an air-cooled newb but I know there are certain ways to do things and I've learned a lot from this bunch - so I'm pretty sure I can spot some craziness in there.

Here is the one I mentioned earlier "rebuilt by pro shop" with cylinders on upside down and 2 piece return tubes.... Motor had about 1000 miles on the "rebuild"....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1668151430.jpg

Cheers

Also VDO/Continental parts providing the warning switch and a 5 or 10 bar pressure sender available in an assortment of thread sizes.

https://www.vdo-instruments.com/sensors/pressure-senders-switches/pressure-sensor-with-warning-contact.html

For example, 360-023 is a combo switch/10 bar sensor in M10x1.0 that O'Reilly list for less than $40. Mine says "Made In Germany" on the packaging.

Just for a neophyte's knowledge, are the two piece collapsible tubes to be avoided? What do you guys recommend when doing a rebuild, the collapsible oil return tubes or the one piece versions? Aluminum or Steel?

Thanks!

The two piece are the only solution to replace leaking ones on a motor that is not coming apart, so they do serve a useful purpose. When rebuilding we only use OE one piece steel ones. Others may have differing opinions mind you.

Cheers

I always enjoy solid return tubes for look and function
Got boxes of split ones used, don’t know why….
Bruce

We've been running a double sending unit for decades. To clean up the wiring we make a custom harness.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1668617537.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1668617537.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1668617601.jpg

Screwing a late sender directly into the case is new to me. I like that option.
Allows for a late double to be fitted.
Moving the sending from the front of the case to the rear cleans up the cam feed lines as well.

Yes, very good idea....can any of you share the part number for the correct double sensor? My engine build is just beginning and I am making a custom engine harness anyway (it is Motec/Rasant for EMS)...so this sounds much cleaner.....

Thanks in advance!

D.

Post #29 in this thread https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/1129460-s-amazing-things-you-find-someone-s-build.html#post11846671 has a link to the VDO catalog.

I bought 10 bar sensor because that's what my gauge uses/appropriate for 930 oil pump output. I'm fairly confident input impedance on the Motec wouldn't mess with the gauge reading too much if you were to "tee" the original sensor - but for $40, you can add an extra sensor and leave the gauge entirely alone.

Pretty sure M10x1.0 matches the factory pressure switch fitting from what I've read.

Thank you!

D.

Ha! Nice thread Bruce!

More of the messy.. in the process of tearing down 3.2 and find these "unique" RSR rocker seals, aluminum washers on case thru-bolts, and silicone as case sealer everywhere! :eek:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1669051296.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1669051296.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1669051296.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1669051296.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1669051296.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1669051296.jpg

...here in Czech we have some special guy working on 911..and others..it is lovely-NOT to do jobs after him..red silicone everywhere-the time to clean it takes longer then assembly of the engine;-)
The latest is the best ,crushed oil tube on camshaft housing after he put mismatched cyl and piston on engine he rebuild..price( i know that one) $8K...oh well garage is full .time to go to work..oh ya bent valves
btw, thanx again John W.
the mid pic is 993 ..had to do service, nightmare it was
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1669153780.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1669153780.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1669154637.jpg

well? i just got in 1973 engine from USA ...(do not know where has been) but some genius put in chain tensioners update kit-lovely...since the chain were too stretched he figured out this--never mind all brown rails...camshaft shims and oil shim upside down..http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1670925004.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1670925004.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1670925004.jpg