My reason to post is just to share. I guess document as well. No specific RPM limit, just want a clean dependable car.

I’m living in Santa Maria. I had family in Palmdale and Land-Scatter.

whoooo, good advice, thanks for to procedure snd the tripod. Any recommendations on penetrating oil. I’ve heard of making some using Automatic Transmission Fluid and a solvent. Currently using a old can of Liquid Wrench. It may be too old and not have enough light solvents anymore.

I found my inductive bolt heater at the door this morning. I took the advice of LukasM and remembered the photo stand I made many years ago to take pictures of pictures. About 20 minutes I was ready to heat some studs.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1696353142.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1696353142.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1696353142.jpg

Setup looks good! How did it work, have you tried removing any yet? Snap-on makes a new set of stud removers that are much more compact than the old collet style - both have their place however.

https://shop.snapon.com/product/Stud-Remover-Sets/10-pc-Metric-Stud-Remover-and-Installer-Kit/MSKM10

Here is my improvised setup so I don't have to stand around waiting:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1696406801.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1696406801.jpg

Hi Lukas, thanks for the compliment. It helps to be a good kind of hoarder sometimes. I’ve thought about scrapping this into my recycle aluminum bin several times.

I have a knockoff set of stud removers just like the Snap-On one you have. There was another one that had a collapsing collet and a tapered nut. It broke, one of the collets snapped off. I ended up sending it back, I love Amazon.

I’m only at day two. I did two cycles, maybe a couple more on some yesterday. I have to wait until Amazon sends a replacement. The heater quit working. I was only doing 20-30 seconds. It sparked a few times at the internal binding jaws. I had the knob tight, as tight as I could with my hand. Also the wire entering the jaws was hot enough to melt the shrink tubing on that side. It must have had some resistance at the clamping junction. Time to apply some penetrating oil.

Three cheers for Amazon!!!

I received a purchase of Inconel Exhaust Studs for Silverlake today. If you are familiar with ARP fasteners, you would know how wonderfully smooth a nut glides on their studs. Well, these Silverlake studs are not like that at all. They are so rough that a paper towel snags when brushed across the threads. The nuts thread on ratchety because they are poorly cut threads and not rolled threads. Inconel will gale just like stainless steel. Do I really what to induce a problem before they are run?

I ordered some studs off ebay, both Inconel and Titanium. I got both sets for just above the cost Silverlake ones.

Exhaust Studs
 

I could only get three exhaust studs out using my stud remover. The other 9 are kicking my butt. I cut the studs off and left 1/8” proud. I then drilled out to 3/16”. I heated them up with my Rosebud and now i’m going to let them soak in liquid wrench for a day or two.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1696627314.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1696627314.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1696627314.jpg

Exhaust Stud Procurement
 

I bought the Silverlake, I wasn’t happy with them. They took them back. I ordered believe it or not, on eBay. I got a couple different sets for the exhaust and a set for the intake.

A setback is always around the corner. I got all the studs drilled out to 3/16” by hand. I then heated the heads with a rose-bud and thought that temperature cycle and less material in the center would be a for sure thing. I then tried to step up the drill, but the material had hardened. I set it up in my mill and the stud laughed at the drills. I also tried some new cobalt drill bit and that was kinda working. I was able to get one hole cleared and then broke a cobalt bit off on the second hole.

I think my only path forward is to send them off to a specialist who can perform some (EDM) Electric Discharge Machine Removal magic.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1696867096.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1696867096.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1696867096.jpg

Put a steel nut over the stud, then weld it to the stud. While it's still hot, wrench out the stud.

If it's broken off flush, build up a little tit with the MIG welder so that there's enough material to then weld the nut to the stud.

^^^^ This ^^^^ Surprising how well this works!

In the interest of not F’in them up, I’m sending 5 of the heads to a company call Jerry’s drill and Tap Removal in Santa Ana CA. The price isn’t all that much, 300-375. It’s worth it to me. I have plenty of other details to attend to.

Fuel Lines, chassis lines, fuel pump area, and CIS.
Go through CIS. (hoses, clean, re-plate zinc items.
Oil tank-regulator-lines.
Rear suspension before I reinstall the engine.
Powder coat engine tin.
Engine assembly.
Micro Polish exhaust system.

And there will be more…

I bought some Loctite 574 on ebay, every one likes it. Even Big Green.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1696953767.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1696953767.jpg

Exhaust Studs
 

So which is though to be better? Inconel or Titanium?

Inconel for things hot.


Check the expiration date on your loctite. Does it really matter? No, but it's likely the reason why it was available on ebay. In aircraft or government maintenance departments, the date can get you dinged on an audit.

I can understand that. I’ve never been through an audit Per Se. I have an A&P and worked for an aircraft manufacturer for many years. We had an Repair Station number and I used it to work on club airplanes.

I still have some Loctite from 15-20 years ago and it still works. I even have some “AA and AV” from my Aerospace days that will hold and take the threads out of a piece of metal, long before the Loctite gives up.

Head Studs
 

Here is my final configuration with the intake and exhaust studs. I went for inconol for the exhaust studs and titanium for the intake studs.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1697164565.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1697164565.jpg

Funny Valve Adjusters
 

So in fine cleaning things for assembly and came across this oddity. Several tips of my rocker adjusters screws seem “Bent”. I can only conclude that the rocker tip of the adjuster was pushed hard over and bell mouthed. Any comments?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1697246530.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1697246530.jpg

Titanium Studs and Nuts
 

Can you say Titanium studs and nuts? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1697388736.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1697388736.jpg

Final Head Assembly
 

I got the heads back together after the stud removal using (EDM) ELECTRICAL DISCHARGE MACHINING

What a god send this process is.


https://brokentap.com/services/

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1698277973.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1698277973.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1698277973.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1698277973.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1698277973.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1698277973.jpg

What's the coating on the inconel studs and nuts, seems like inconel is already pretty resistant to everything?

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