My Engine/Transmission is going in soon, real soon. Since my past com on this thread, I’ve been busy working on suspension, upgrading the A/C system (Griffiths), fuel system, brakes, lighting and electrical.

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Without my air powered hoist, my engine tilter, and hydraulic lift cart, I could not do it myself.


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It may not matter but your engine crossbar is mounted backwards.
You might find fitting the engine mount bolts easier the other way.
BTW: you project is looking great.

Good point. it’s a new one, the original was bent and the holes didn’t line up with the engine tin. I was so happy the new one was centered on the divots in the tin. Not that I would second guess you Henry, but during my head scratching early on, I looked in the porsche parts manual and it doesn’t appear it has a lip… Anyway, I flipped it around just now. Thanks for looking over my shoulder.

Yesterday was a productively good day. I have a new appreciation for a “Partial Engine Drop”. I did some engine-body connections while 2-3 inchs lower than fully mated to the engine mounts. I could get to the FV if I needed to.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1729090894.jpg
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In the first photo you may spot the ratchet straps. I wanted to stabilize, although maybe over-kill, it did serve a purpose. The angle of the engine was flat as measured on the top of the transmission. When I needed to stab the transmission shaft into the cockpit, I was able adjust it angle during the process to point the nose up into the hole. I didn’t plan that at all.

I was looking through my photos of my car and found this old dinghy from June 2023 when I removed the power plant.

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Well dude, that is a very impressive garage. Well done.
Of course this thread is about your rebuild and it is also very impressive. Looks like new.
I know because I worked on SCs when they were new.

Well? Where's the soundtrack?

I fired the engine and it started “ok”, but seemed off. I had an oil leak and a fuel leak. When it started, after the fuel got around to all the right places, it exhibited the typical warm up cycle i’ve studied about. After it was out of the warmup phase, it really didn’t like to idle. Ok, it started, a couple of leaks, no weird noises like a Harvesting Machine, I was happy for the day’s efforts. This afternoon I started with the basics with the CSI Gage set, timing light, and found the readings fine. Still not happy at idele. I got the smoke machine out and found everything smoke tight. Next thing was the CO meter and the Fuel Air Ratio. Both pointed mixture, lean mixture, like 30:1 and ranging. A simple tweek or four and ended up purring.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1729381343.jpg
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The duty cycle with the lamda plugged in 50%.

Sounds Happy to me.


October 19, 2024
https://youtu.be/uTgeWNOqiYg

The latest update. A few days ago, after spending countless hours trying to figure out the Duty Cycle, I found I flat screwed up! My Frequency Valve was not responding. I found that “I” had the FV and the Cold Start Connections reversed. When I assembled the engine, I recall the color coding wasn’t stupid-proof. I thought I had the correct positions, based on the curve set in the cables. Anyway, the planets aligned. Engine is running well, Duty Cycle is set, was responsive to the corrections I made on the fuel distributor.

I started another post about a wandering Duty Cycle yesterday. Sorry for being redundant,..

I’m thinking about purchasing Andrew Cologne’s CPU-Based ECU. Primarily to enhance the acceleration with better fuel ratio control.

Looks great - I’m going on almost 2 years without my 89 911 with an engine rebuilder.
One thing after another….





QUOTE=porschedude996;12339208]My Engine/Transmission is going in soon, real soon. Since my past com on this thread, I’ve been busy working on suspension, upgrading the A/C system (Griffiths), fuel system, brakes, lighting and electrical.

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[QUOTE=28tbsfan;12364264]Looks great - I’m going on almost 2 years without my 89 911 with an engine rebuilder.
One thing after another….QUOTE]

Two years! That sucks…

Two years?? Demand them to give it back to you now, in whatever state it is. You can do it yourself much faster. If they give you any excuses, have your favorite lawyer send them a demand letter.

It’s getting to that point. It’s too bad because this was once, from what I hear, a reputable shop. It sounds like a reoccurring theme with several customers. Their Dyno has been down for months and they blame it on the power company. Told me three weeks last week talked and when I called yesterday, they had done nothing.

2 Years…
 

Yikes, 2 years? The escalating costs, declining parts quality (and availability) and stories of countless shop delays give many of us with old high mileage Porsches needing a rebuild the chills.

I have been collecting parts for a pending rebuild for several years, but cases like this give me pause since my old SC always seems to start and drive fairly well even with high miles…

I would think that a shop that has a lease on their building would want to get the cars moving through and free up space. Floor space isn’t cheap.

Well I think everything is tuned correctly. I’m a bit amazed, even thinking I’m too lean on the Emissions Test that passed. Any thoughts on the values?

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Keith: Congrats on passing. Was the test at 2500 RPM on a dyno with load, or just sitting in the shop with no load? And congrats on getting it back on the road. I know it's been a long trip!

If it starts and runs well, don't mess with it yet. Give it some time and miles before trying adjustments. Go drive the snot out of it!