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Thanks. I believe Mark is ordering parts for the trans. May have been further along if it didn't take 3 weeks for the check to arrive.
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Dropped off the fuel distributor for Tony to look at. BTW, happy birthday, Tony.
For sure the air metering plate was misaligned and the microswitch or contacts for running the fuel pump has not worked in a while. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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One of the items we talked about was the frequency valve. Not sure how one tests the f-valve. Are these things so bullet-proof that they never fail and never need tested?
Also does anyone know what frequency the valve runs at? We tried powering a f-valve using an EP26 flasher relay. But the EP26 only operates at 1.2Hz. My guess is the f-valve runs at least 100Hz, maybe higher. Also we do not know how much voltage is applied to the f-valve. With our EP26 driving at 14V, the f-valve got real hot. I'm guessing 6V or lower is applied to the f-valve from the oxygen sensor control unit. ![]()
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New engine harness courtesy of Dennis. It is a work of art. He was able to replace the very light OEM battery-starter cable with a much heavier hi-output alternator cable.
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I bought new engine tin seals but the rear+sides piece looks different than what is OEM. The OEM seals have a double flap and this new one turns the corners to the sides.
The channels in the car do not turn the corner. Do I cut this piece to fit in the rear and the sides? Is this the correct part? Not sure how to install this. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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The harness is even more spectacular in person.
Dennis was able to integrate the heavy alternator POS cable into the harness. The heavy POS cable was aftermarket with the 175A Classic Retrofit alternator. ![]() ![]()
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Hey, Spoke: Sorry I didn't see your question RE: engine compartment seal earlier. Your piece appears correct to me. As many others have mentioned, it's a ***** to install. I remember clearly, my fingers were numb for 8 days following my installation.
I used a large flat screwdriver to pry open just a bit the tracks at the curved corners, and I had to leave a bit of slack in the rubber to make the distance around the corner while maintaining the proper shape to make the seal. I also lubed the rubber with Aerospace 303 to assist. I think I pressed the rubber into the gap, rather than sliding it that superlong length, and I'm sure I used the large flat screwdriver to assist. I slid the rubber just a bit as necessary, then after the entire position looked right, I used a hard wooden dowel and hammer on the track to close the gap that I had opened up with cut the tiny bit extra off both ends, ensuring it fit and overlapped properly with the front seal. It took me about 3 hours to do both seals. Hope this helps. |
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Quote:
I'll need to replace the insulation on the cabin side. What type of insulation do guys use today for insulation? ![]() ![]()
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Got the calipers off. Time to ship them to PMB.
Question: Do I need to clean up the calipers before sending to PMB? ![]()
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Moved the 930 over to the side with the lift and washed off all the dust.
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The engine is in disassembly.
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Making great progress Jerry.
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Met with Mark and Scott at their shop this week to discuss items moving forward.
Some of the items: P&C: Pistons out of round; Cylinders worn; Will replace with new. Scott says go bigger. Will try to get the HP from 280 stock to 330. Heads will need reworked; new valves; new valve guides; repair #2 spark plug that I crossthreaded. Rockers will be refurbished New Pauter rods New cams New head studs New oil pump New heat exchangers/exhaust New cam sprockets New turbo Inspect/polish crankshaft Distributor: Will look for a replacement push/pull advance can or go with crank fired ignition. Scott wants the oil cooler and oil tank out of the chassis for deep cleaning. I'm sure I fogot things.
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Fear No Rust
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Great restoration project, Spoke!
I am loving driving my 930 after a similar restoration to yours (I did go Haltech EFI). Mine took 3.5 years for most of the usual reasons and I still have some small things left to do, like A/C, lol. It was so worth it though. Who are the Mark and Scott you mention? John
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/1105122-driver-survivor-black-1987-930-build.html Real IMSA 914 restoration: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=91937 Basket Case 914 restoration: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=79106 |
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The 9 Store
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Wilmington, DE
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Quote:
I have a business called The 9 Store. Parts sales. Engine and transmission rebuilding.
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Any progress?
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Parts are ordered for the transmission and engine.
I've been consumed with trying to box the brake calipers to ship to PMB. As with everything I've over engineered the shipping to fabricate custom made shipping boxes. With a bunch of cardboard (most donated by Amazon) and hot melt glue each caliper will have its own shipping box. Front caliper and custom shipping box. ![]() ![]() ![]() Got a front and rear box done. I'm out of cardboard. I think I need to hit up my local grocery store for some cardboard.
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All 4 calipers have their shipping boxes. These boxes are placed inside a double-boxed large flat rate box and stuffed with cardboard.
Tracking shows a 4 boxes are at the Salt Lake City post office to be delivered today. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Absolutely agree. My paranoia of something bad happening to the calipers in shipping drove me to do the boxes. Each box took about 1 movie's time to complete. Total cost to me is one bag of 50 hot melt sticks. Also go rid of a lot of cardboard from stuff shipped to me.
I am very creative with cardboard and hot melt glue. I used cardboard to do the base for scenery on my model railroad. Everything shown painted green is cardboard. One picture shows some of the cardboard framework to support the scenery. I'm able to make I beams with cardboard which are quite strong. ![]() ![]()
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