Top End or Complete Rebuild?

[Dpmulvan]

That crank looks troublesome could be the source of your knock and low oil pressure if that piece is in the bottom of your case.

[86 911]

That certainly could be, however I didn’t see any pieces floating around and never remember seeing any come out with past oil changes.

Got everything disassembled over the last week. I’m starting to clean everything up. Going to drive the case, cam towers, Ps & Cs, crank, and rods over to Ollies in Lake Havasu next week. I was able to schedule some customer visits for work in Vegas which makes the trip worth it. Heads are going to Aasco Motorsports for reconditioning and a valve job. Finally, the cams are going to Dougherty for a regrind.

Excited to see this coming along but now it’s just a waiting game for the machine work to be done. Will keep you all posted.

[86 911]

While beginning to inspect my fuel lines in the chasis I did run across this crack in the frame :-(


Probably from the hit and run accident I had a few years ago when someone hit that side of the car when I was parked on the street. Time to find a portable welder that can come to the house and fix it.

[Jeff Alton]

Originally Posted by 86 911

Mike and Alan, thanks for the input.

Jeff, one of the shop’s specialties is testing oil coolers. While the oil cooler wasn’t actively dripping, the area certainly was covered in oil. I’ll stay on the safe side and try to source one in better condition.
.

What was the result of the oil cooler pressure test? Did it pass or fail? Or did I just miss it (likely) ....

You should have not problem finding a shop to braze the oil tank. Keep us posted on that end of the work.

You have made some good choices on the outsourcing work you posted.

Looking forward to progress updates as your build continues.

Koodos to you and those that take this on!

Cheers

[86 911]

Thanks Jeff! Appreciate the help and input you’re providing. It’s a big help.

The oil cooler was a leaker. Lots of little air bubbles at 10psi. I asked Tim at Ollies for a second opinion as he also tests them. He told me that he recommends replacing if they begin leaking at 40psi. I have dibs out on a used cooler that I’m hoping to have tested but I’m also considering biting the bullet and just getting a new one. After all, the engine is almost 50 years old. While at Ollies, Glen Yee from Glen Yee Motorsports will be looking over my oil pump. He’s close with Tim at Ollies.

Regarding the oil tank, I had it shipped to Orozco’s Gas Tank Repair in Bellflower, CA. For $190, they welded the bracket. I’m also asking them to straighten out the outfeed tube on the tank since it’s not perfectly round which causes some seepage.Hope to get it back early next week.

I’ll keep you all posted. It will be 3-4 months till I get my engine back. I was impressed with Tim and the crew at Ollies but they certainly have a lot of engines to work on before they get to mine. Next step is to pull the gas tank and refresh the fuel lines. Then, take care of the crack in the frame and install my new wiring harness that I should be getting soon from Restoration Design :-)

[PeteKz]

Re the crack in the weld at the left front lower corner of the engine bay: I doubt that was from one impact. It looks more like a stress crack or fatigue crack to me. If someone had really stiff shocks on it at some point, and did off-road rallies, that might be the result. If that's the only place, then weld it up. But after seeing that, I would inspect much more closely around the other corner and the upper shock mounts, because that stress came from somewhere.

[RobFrost]

Crank lobe looks to me like it was drilled for balancing purposes and they might have knocked the corner off while doing so.

Do you know what viscosity your oil was, giving that oil pressure?

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[RobFrost]

Originally Posted by RobFrost

Crank lobe looks to me like it was drilled for balancing purposes and they might have knocked the corner off while doing so.

Do you know what viscosity your oil was, giving that oil pressure?

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Oh hang on you mean the other lobe!

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[86 911]

Pete - I inspected the other side but did not see any cracking. The car is a salvage title, so perhaps it could have happened long before. I'll do more inspection after I get back from vacation. The other issue I'm trying to figure out is why I have a 10mm door gap on the driver's side and a 6mm gap on the passenger's side (on the striker end). Seems more than just common targa/cab flex to me. I have something funky going on.

Rob, could be. My machine shop said it may have been balanced by the factory and could have come this way, but it was hard for him to tell. I have usually been running the standard Castrol or Mobil 20w-50 oils..

Another question for you: Is it ok to re-use the old cam chain sprockets with new timing chains? I heard that old chain should not be used with new sprockets, but was wondering if old sprockets can be used with new chain.

[PeteKz]

Matt, yeah look over the body carefully if you have that much door gap. My 1973 has a wider gap on the driver's side than the passenger side too, but I think it was just made that way. Hand-made cars and all that. I haven't measured, but I estimate 5mm on the pass side, and 8mm on the driver side, I'll try to measure later today.

[Alan L]

"Another question for you: Is it ok to re-use the old cam chain sprockets with new timing chains? I heard that old chain should not be used with new sprockets, but was wondering if old sprockets can be used with new chain."

It depends.......
Why are you replacing the chains? If they are badly stretched/worn, then the sprockets will be exhibiting similar wear - they sort of work together as far as wear and tear goes. Hand and glove sort of thing. So.... your new chains will very quickly stretch to fit the wear pattern on the old sprockets. It won't take too long before the chain will resemble the old ones.
I just replaced 1 chain. But I had made a mistake and inadvertently untensioned a cam bolt using the chain for support. My guess was I had stretched part of the chain and stressed it beyond spec.
Alan

[PeteKz]

Does anyone know the spec for chain wear/stretch?