1979 SC Chewed a Valve - Total Rebuild

[mikedsilva]

I don't use nylocks "inside" the engine.

[Flat6pac]

You don’t use nyloc inside the engine, that’s what the waves washers are for
Bruce

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

You don’t use nyloc inside the engine, that’s what the waves washers are for.
Your Allen cap nuts are on the wrong side.
Bruce

Waves or Spring?

[Flat6pac]

Curved

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Curved

Ok, looks like I can pick some up locally at a reasonable cost.
Things are already torqued, so I guess I just go around in order and remove, replace, retorque one by one.

I have plenty of non-Nylok nuts too.

[OsoMoore]

The nuts I have on hand in quantity are:
1) Cadmium plated nyloks
2) Cadmium plated prevailing torque
3) Stainless steel

As noted, #1 is not good to use inside the engine. Are either of the other two options good? Or do I need to pick up a different type for these studs of the heads-to-cam towers?

[Flat6pac]

Just use standard 8.8 8mm nuts with wavey washers.
Bruce

[stownsen914]

I'm usually scared to use stainless hardware in/on an engine. If you ever lose or drop one in the engine, having it be magnetic can be an important advantage.

[OsoMoore]

Well... we have a problem. I was putting on the chain housing on the left side, and didn't initially didn't path the chain around the big through-bolt. I realized this after torquing things down, when I went to put in the chain ramp.
Having realized this, I quickly removed the bolts, and pulled off the housing, leaving the gasket stuck to the case. I cleaned the fresh loctite off the housing, applied a new bead, and put it back into position, carefully aligning the chain this time.

Grabbed fresh washers and nuts, and started going around again. But the lower inside nut didn't reach torque. It started to get tight and then... spun further. I realized it was spinning the stud along with it. Uhoh!

Maybe part of the issue is how I interpreted Wayne's book "Use the factory 13mm nuts on the studs... [that] are egg-shaped locknuts that resist vibration." I used prevailing torque nuts here. I put one on and torqued it originally without issues. Then took it off to redo the chain route. Then I put a fresh one on. I did not pass the torque spec, however, it stripped before I hit the torque. So maybe I'm not to blame?

Regardless, now I have a chain housing attached with a nut that can't tighten and won't back off/out either. How do I extract this stud from its stripped hole, and how do I move forward afterwards?



I might post this in the main forum for more visibility. I'm feeling dejected after making so much progress earlier this weekend.

[PeteKz]

See what I just wrote under your other thread. Crap happens. Welcome to the club--I'm a life member.

[Flat6pac]

I believe I said previously, don’t use prevailing torque because they eat the threads on the stud
Bruce

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

I believe I said previously, don’t use prevailing torque because they eat the threads on the stud
Bruce

I remember a post about that. And I didn't use any more... until here where I thought it was specifically called for.



I really wish someone would just sell a kit with all the right kinds of nuts and washers. I honestly thought that was what the book intended in this particular case, but it clearly wasn't.

[stownsen914]

Try grabbing the nut with a pair of pliers or a vise grip and pull while unscrewing. Hopefully the stud will back out.

You'll see different opinions about where to use whatever fasteners, which may explain why there isn't a "kit". For the chain boxes, personally I used plan hex nuts. I think that was factory issue, I haven't heard to use different there.