^^^ Good points. You should replace it. Mine only needed a couple of repairs.

New harness is on the way. CIS is pulled back off... again...
Doing some cleanup stuff while I wait for the new parts to arrive.

I have a heater backdate mod I made to the right-side air block plate which came apart during sandblasting. So I'm going to need to rig it up again with epoxy. It worked fine for 12 years until the sandblasting.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377530594.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377530575.jpg

Putting on the muffler while I wait for wires, and couldn't find a new gasket for CAT-to-Muffler in the parts box.

But there is this odd thing. Does this ring go in here? It actually seems to fit. Not sure what it is, some kind of non-metallic but shiny material.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763478288.jpghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763478288.jpg

It goes under the clamp on the crossover pipe, pre Carrera
Bruce

Ah, I'll take a closer look at that side.

This morning before kids woke up, I started epoxy on the block plate (above) and its elbow pipe. Then bolted transmission mounts to the brace, and installed all the studs for the engine-transmission connection.

Tomorrow morning I'm picking up the missing exhaust gasket, some new hose for the heater air, new intake header sleeves, and transmission shift rod seal.
New wiring harness shipped out Monday but looks like it might not arrive until later Saturday, which is a shame.

I also ordered black high-temp brush paint for covering the spots my fancy new powder-coat was nicked. Hopefully I can keep rust off all that tinwork.

I couldn't find one of my engine/transmission nuts. However I have all my old head stud nuts, which match threads. Can I just use those?

The factory one had a narrowed down leading edge on the starter but head nut will work.
Bruce

Spent the morning driving back and forth across town to pick up the parts. Just waiting for wiring harness.

Shipping tracking is showing wiring harness late Saturday delivery despite it getting out in Monday's mail. So... that sucks. But at least I'll be all ready when it arrives.

For the next guy trying to make this piece, the 911 SC heater tube works pretty good.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763772394.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763772231.jpg

Bad luck this morning. WUR line snapped - maybe I can repair it? Really don't want to end up another week into winter waiting for a part.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1186464-wur-fuel-line-repairable.html#post12567237

I can make that hose for you today. I have tubing and fitting in stock. Ship it next day if you want.
Send me a picture if each end with fitting sizes and over all length and I make it happen.I really want to see you find the end of this project.
As for using heat to assemble the ends: not a great idea. These are compression barbs and if they leak you're looking at a potentially devastating fire.

Line length is 34 inches including fittings.
The hollow bolts that go through the banjo's look like m8's but with a finer thread than the m8's used everywhere else. Pictured below with a normal m8 nut and normal m8 rod.
About 2 feet of it has an extra layer, although that had begun to crack. I sleeved it in a split loom tubing to protect it from abrasion (not pictured).

Do you need any other details?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763835937.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763835937.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763835937.jpg

Sent you an email via the PP messaging system with more info, hopefully that works.

My only question would be: Banjo fitting on both ends? Some have a cone nipple and swivel nut on one end and banjo on the other.

Engine is lowered onto the lift, transmission is mated (with fork properly positioned), and I'm almost ready to put it back into the car!

I want to double-check all my valves. And I forgot I should plug this little hole in the crosspipe where the EGR used to connect. Not sure what to stick on it.

Also, need to check old photos to figure out where this stuff goes.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763870808.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1763870808.jpg

Final prep work this morning, planning to put it in this afternoon. Remaining tasks:

1) Find something to plug that hole. Not sure if inside is threaded. Feels like its not a big deal for break-in if I don't find a plug. ???
2) Finish checking valve adjustment. Checked the uppers this morning and a couple were a bit looser than I'd prefer, so I tightened them. Will check the lowers later.
3) Assemble CVs with their new boots, grease and install.
4) Figure out where that bracket and spring go (picture above).
5) Pick up more transmission fluid locally. Due to my slow drip-leak I had ordered a bottle of Kendall from our host. Even after I put it in, a 4mm hex reached down the fill hole didn't reach the fluid level.

The transmission fluid is the big one. I think I can use parts-store stuff as long as it meets the requirement, and order a full batch from host to refill later. Hypoid GL-5, 80W/90.

It appears that you actually fill the transmission on the side, not the top. So I probably put in enough or even overfilled it. I will remove the side plug and check and be ready for some to drip out.
What even is that big plug on the top for that?

You think I would have remembered from 10 years ago.

1) Find something to plug that hole. Not sure if inside is threaded. Feels like its not a big deal for break-in if I don't find a plug. ??? You can use the fitting on the original EGR tube with a ball bearing that fits inside the exhaust crossover fitting that is larger than the hole.
2) Finish checking valve adjustment. Checked the uppers this morning and a couple were a bit looser than I'd prefer, so I tightened them. Will check the lowers later.
You should check the valve after a few miles of break-in. It;s better to hear a valve than to smell a valve.
3) Assemble CVs with their new boots, grease and install.
Keep in mind that the inner race of a CV can be installed two way. Think small to large when install the race.
4) Figure out where that bracket and spring go (picture above). The bracket goes under the intake plenum (air box) near the bell-crank bracket. It should have a rubber grommet that supports the plenum through a u-shaped groove above the crankcase breather. The hose clamp holds the CIS supply/return fuel lines.
The springs goes from the throttle bell-crank to the #2(?) intake runner. There is a small tab sticking straight down that it hooks to.
5) Pick up more transmission fluid locally. Due to my slow drip-leak I had ordered a bottle of Kendall from our host. Even after I put it in, a 4mm hex reached down the fill hole didn't reach the fluid level.

The transmission fluid is the big one. I think I can use parts-store stuff as long as it meets the requirement, and order a full batch from host to refill later. Hypoid GL-5, 80W/90.
The trick is to avoid overly slippery transmission fluid. The steel syncros don't react well to some of the synthetic or graphite based oils. Steel syncros need friction to function properly.

If you're talking about the 17mm plug on the top, it's a breather. The breath has a hole in it to vent heat/pressure so the seals don't leak. It's very important that the hole in the fitting be pointed in the direction the car is traveling. If it faces the wrong way it will respond by venting most of the gear oil out.

Holy crap I will check that!

I realized I'm also going to need the EGR bracket to support the other side of the air box even though I'm not putting the EGR on it.

Still searching through old photos for what that little silver tab is for.

Thank you for your incredible assistance!

I'm picking up a couple gallons of fresh gas on the way home to add the tank. I've got all my filters and lots of oil and very excited for the afternoon.

And picking up two gallons of spumoni frozen custard.