Whelp... shop lent me the ring compressor and the circlip pusher. But they need them back Friday morning.

Cylinders and pistons are ready on my bench, and I'll have to do this tomorrow.

What do you recommend as a strategy? Pistons in cylinders on the bench and install the pair at once? Or put pistons on rods first, and then slide cylinders over?

The compressors I have are a sleeve with a clasp, and a solid-piece ring with a lip.

The black ring tool and a couple of circlip insertion tools have been amazing. The shop lent them to me and this morning in just over an hour I put one piston and cylinder completely on and prepped three more pistons and cylinders. So I'm hopeful that tonight I can get the rest of them on in about 2 hours and get the shop back their tools for the Friday work day.


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Successful night! Those tools are amazing.
Also, these engines are so beautiful!

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Getting ready to put back on the engine tins on my path to assembling heads and cam towers.

What is the recommended prep for the airflow tins? I saw some folks painting them in Cerokote, which looks fairly expensive. I also have no paint gun. Should I just clean them really well? Paint them with something else after cleaning?

Paint and subassembly
 

Semi gloss black high temp rattle can works. This is how I do heads and cam carrier, cam and rockers.
Bruce. Double click for pictures

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Are you painting the exterior surfaces of the heads and such? Looking at my old parts, the only obvious paint/coat was the valve covers and I think the tins.

Rattle can paint on clean cylinder dividers, don’t paint aluminum as it’s a becomes an insulator.
Bruce

Sounds good! My challenge right now is getting the dividers clean from 25 years of oily grime and a little bit of rust.

I'm considering if I need to find a way to sandblast them or such. Used an entire can of brake cleaner and they still aren't clean enough to paint.

Go to the china store, harbor freight, they have little brushes with metal bristles that works well in the bend area.
Work in a bucket with a gallon of kerosene
Bruce

A neighbor friend of mine in a radiator shop saw me brushing and scraping, and offered to run my baffles through the sand blaster, and strip the valve cover paint with some of their stripper stuff.

So while he works on that front, I went ahead ands started cleaning my chain housings.

I also tried to torque my oil pressure valves to 44 ft/lbs... and it feels impossible. How do you torque a wide flat-blade screw?

The later replacement on Carrera are 17mm hex head, good replacement
On yours, I just Chanel lock them tight.
Bruce

Any recommendation on how to clean the cam tower surface around the studs? I can get the rest pretty well with a scotchbrite pad, but I can't get good contact near the studs.

I do have a Dremel tools, but all the heads I have on hand seem to abrasive to be safe.
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Remove the studs...

Removing studs is one option. I was able to get mine clean recently without stud removal. I found acetone and some elbow grease removed all the gasket, sealant, etc residue. I preferred to avoid abrasives, though scotch brite is probably fine. I'd avoid power tools.

Gloves and ventilation when using acetone.

Razor blade.

A friend helped me clean my baffles really well. Revealed a fair bit of surface rust, although structurally the pieces feel fine.

Do you think I can go ahead and paint them and use as-is? POR 15, or maybe try to grind the rust off? Or just get a new set? They are all about the same condition as these three.

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We pull all the studs and oil tubes, bead blast the housings and refinish all 5 sealing surfaces.
The last two pictures are a 964 cam housing converted for use on an engine with cam feed lines.

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Sandblast and powdercoat /quality paint the baffles. Mine were way worse than yours and now they are like new. They are not cheap to buy used.

I used a lot of razor blades and scotch brite to get my mating surfaces nice.

Sandblasting cleared off the rust? What did it cost you to get the blasting plus coating done?