I don't use nylocks "inside" the engine.

You don’t use nyloc inside the engine, that’s what the waves washers are for
Bruce

Waves or Spring?http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1760803825.png

Curved

Ok, looks like I can pick some up locally at a reasonable cost.
Things are already torqued, so I guess I just go around in order and remove, replace, retorque one by one.

I have plenty of non-Nylok nuts too.

The nuts I have on hand in quantity are:
1) Cadmium plated nyloks
2) Cadmium plated prevailing torque
3) Stainless steel

As noted, #1 is not good to use inside the engine. Are either of the other two options good? Or do I need to pick up a different type for these studs of the heads-to-cam towers?

Just use standard 8.8 8mm nuts with wavey washers.
Bruce

I'm usually scared to use stainless hardware in/on an engine. If you ever lose or drop one in the engine, having it be magnetic can be an important advantage.

Well... we have a problem. I was putting on the chain housing on the left side, and didn't initially didn't path the chain around the big through-bolt. I realized this after torquing things down, when I went to put in the chain ramp.
Having realized this, I quickly removed the bolts, and pulled off the housing, leaving the gasket stuck to the case. I cleaned the fresh loctite off the housing, applied a new bead, and put it back into position, carefully aligning the chain this time.

Grabbed fresh washers and nuts, and started going around again. But the lower inside nut didn't reach torque. It started to get tight and then... spun further. I realized it was spinning the stud along with it. Uhoh!

Maybe part of the issue is how I interpreted Wayne's book "Use the factory 13mm nuts on the studs... [that] are egg-shaped locknuts that resist vibration." I used prevailing torque nuts here. I put one on and torqued it originally without issues. Then took it off to redo the chain route. Then I put a fresh one on. I did not pass the torque spec, however, it stripped before I hit the torque. So maybe I'm not to blame?

Regardless, now I have a chain housing attached with a nut that can't tighten and won't back off/out either. How do I extract this stud from its stripped hole, and how do I move forward afterwards?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1760911935.jpg

I might post this in the main forum for more visibility. I'm feeling dejected after making so much progress earlier this weekend.

See what I just wrote under your other thread. Crap happens. Welcome to the club--I'm a life member.

I believe I said previously, don’t use prevailing torque because they eat the threads on the stud
Bruce

I remember a post about that. And I didn't use any more... until here where I thought it was specifically called for.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/sad2.gif

I really wish someone would just sell a kit with all the right kinds of nuts and washers. I honestly thought that was what the book intended in this particular case, but it clearly wasn't.

Try grabbing the nut with a pair of pliers or a vise grip and pull while unscrewing. Hopefully the stud will back out.

You'll see different opinions about where to use whatever fasteners, which may explain why there isn't a "kit". For the chain boxes, personally I used plan hex nuts. I think that was factory issue, I haven't heard to use different there.

I'll be getting to the stud in the morning, currently putting together that PP order and I need to know: do I need the special chain tensioning tool shown in Wayne's book?

I'm hoping it isn't required, although I could try to borrow one from the shop across town if needed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761006211.png

Are you 100% certain that the stud is rotating along with the nut?

I find that very hard to believe... because that would mean the stud has stripped the thread in the case.

And when I go to remove those studs from the case during my preparation, I find those studs to be VERY difficult to remove.

My money would be on that nut being stripped, and not the stud.

But, I've been wrong before.

Whatever you do, rotate the engine so that side of the engine is towards the ground, so when you go to attempt removal of the nut, any debris does not fall into the case.


And no, you do not 'need' the stomski chain tension tool.

I am not 100% sure, but close to 90%. There is what looks like a spirally cut piece of the stud that turns with the nut, when I turn the nut. I'll know more when I have time to sit down and check it carefully, ideally in the morning.

I would also appreciate your thoughts on if I need to acquire the chain tensioner tool. Thanks!

Image hosting is broken!

Here's a link: https://imgur.com/a/oSTW1Q4
https://imgur.com/a/oSTW1Q4

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761007087.pnghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761007126.png

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761007737.png

Proof that I need sleep! Thank you for your help.

Chalk up another "Mike was right". It was indeed NOT the hole that stripped, but rather the end of the stud. Probably torn up one two many times by my re-applying of that nasty nut.

Its neighbor also seems to be damaged, so I suspect I should replace both.
What's the preferred way to get these guys out? Double nut and push hard? Pick up a torch at HF and apply some heat first?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761056321.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761056321.jpg

double nut and heat on the case.

Sounds good, time to acquire a torch and some gas. My initial research says to get a MAPP torch.

Double nut can work most times. Best way is to use a Snap on stud tool with appropriate collet. I little heat doesn't hurt either.

https://b2b.snapon.com/productDetails/CJ500-1/2

This tool does a great job of removing studs without damage. You can get different size collets for all the different studs.

john

You lucked out that the stud stripped and not the case, good for you!

A cheap propane torch is fine. Heat the stud until a spritz of water sizzles. Since that stud is toast, I would use some vise grips to remove it.

I got the original stud out with double nut, still need to work on its inner neighbor that was damaged but not initially stripped.

I have a MAPP torch now, and can try with locking pliers tonight. Or stop and pick up a more specialized extractor.
There isn't enough good thread exposed on the second to enable double-nut because of the alignment sleeve.

I'm cleaning my rocker arms and barrels. One of the heads has some moderate pitting. Unsure if I need to replace it, or if it will be OK. My camshafts themselves have been redone by a shop.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761142230.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1761142230.jpg

^^^ I've replaced better.

I’m not sure, but would think that best practice would be to have the rocker arms re-bushed and faces restored?

I sent mine to Craig when I did my top end.

Hmm, I didn't realize you could get the faces restored. Which Craig is that?

EDIT: Figured it out: it is cgarr at g2 performance.

Related question: If I borrow cam timing tools and time, will that end up thrown off if I pull the cams later to be re-finished? I think not, based on what is actually being set.

Just a note, everything being in spec on the build, if the cams aren’t timed correctly, the motor will not run.
The shim on the stud will pull out with pliers if you twist and pull.
Bruce

When you reinstall or install any cam you will have to install it as new. Measure everything check chain sprocket alignment and set timing.

Great tip on the shim. That should make the extraction easier. Thanks!

I am planning a full timing operation of the cams. The challenge is that I'm borrowing the timing tools from a local shop over the weekend, but I won't have new rocker arms that soon.

My understanding is that I can time my camshafts with the current rocker arms. Then with the shafts set and chains permanently pinned, I can remove rockers and get them fixed/replaced. No need to borrow the timing tools again.

Is that right?

You only need to install rockers on the intakes of cylinder 1 and 4 to time the cams. You can replace them later because the cams remain timed.

Yes. The wear is at the location on the rocker pad near max lift. That won’t affect the opening ramp of the cam, which is where you measure lift/timing. Then you can replace the rockers later.

I strongly recommend that you replace or rebuild those rockers for two reasons: 1. That pitting will continue to get worse and damage your cam. 2. The pitting is mostly to one side which indicates the rocker is out of line, probably die to excessive wear on the bushing and/or shafts. Inspect those carefully .