http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758565320.png

I think I found the right thing! This should cover the case and valve covers and a ton of other stuff.

I never use stainless nuts or washers anywhere on these engines.

I was going to use the zinc-coated prevailing torque ones on the engine case, and the SS nyloks on valve covers etc.

Is it recommended to leave SS out entirely?

Remember, prevailing torque nuts distort the studs, not good.
Bruce

This is driving me crazy. Do I really have to order a $200 nuts set designed for Porsche engines?

Do I need to get zinc nickel cadmium non stainless steel nylock nuts for the case, and what kind should I use inside for the oil pump?

Ordered these: Medium-Strength Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut, Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated, M8 x 1.25mm, 13mm Wide

Two new questions (am I worrying too much)?

First: While waiting for my fasteners, I dry-fitted the case together. No top-side bearings or sealants/lube, just setting it carefully in place. There is this small gap running from 1'ish mm to 3'ish. Is this expected before I crank it shut? Or should it be sitting flush now? This engine was rebuilt once before, 25 years ago.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758587160.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758587160.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758587160.jpg

Second: Two of the bevel washers I removed were newer and not beveled on the inside. Is this a concern? If not, do they have a specific location they should be placed at?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758587198.jpg

They probably were under the oil cooler but still wrong as those studs get
O ring seals too
The case will pull together.
If you need a couple, PM me
Bruce

If you're looking for miscellaneous hardware, Belmetric is a source many have had good luck with.

Edit - not for the beveled washers you posted about above.

It is going to take some time to get the correct o-ring accommodating washers.

I'm considering putting one through bolt in with the wrong washers and no o-rings, and sealing/closing the case so I can proceed. Then, when the washers arrive, I can remove just that through bolt and redo it with the right washers and o-ring.

Does this sound reasonable, or would I risk screwing up my seal job?

I would close all through bolts and leave the ones behind the oil cooler for later.
That way you can install pistons and keep moving along, are the heads back yet, if they are subassemble them with heads, cam carrier, cam and rockers.
Before installing unit of heads, back the pistons down from TDC so an open valve doesn’t hit piston
Bruce

All parts are back and in the garage. So now I am clear to start moving forward. Just feeling worried about that gap at the dry fit, shown in my pictures (above).

Got a 2nd smaller torque wrench and an oiler can this morning, so I can work efficiently and do the light and heavier torquing without changing the wrench as I go.

Probably looking at Sunday before I can get a few quiet hours to work. But I can lay things out and watch videos until then.

I just learned there is a hole down the center of the intermediate shaft, and I need to flush it out. Good thing I haven't buttoned it up yet.

https://youtu.be/lxaiRPlnihg?si=S1bwYWLTMf-5D4Nt&t=542

That gap is strange, I think a place to look is that the nose bearing pin aligned with the hole and seated. Or maybe the case was previously adjusted and you have time serts or helicoils that have backed out.

Have you fitted the case together without the crank, intermediate gear and oil pump? You have to make sure there is no interference, otherwise you risk damaging your case.

I pulled everything out and fitted the case that way. Came together perfectly without any gap. So no time serts or such are blocking.

I also cleaned the intermediate shaft center out. Need to pick up a new small-value torque wrench, lay out everything, and then can move ahead. Probably Friday or Saturday.

Early this morning I put the shafts back in, and did another dry fit. Everything came together perfectly with no gaps. I had 2 hours before work, so I dived into the case closing.

Using orings and sealants from the Supertech kit everything slipped together nicely. Briefly had a scare when I dropped the inside-chain-case bolt inside, but fished it out with a magnet.

I'm not happy with the two oil cooler studs, they really wanted to twist on their orings, and I don't (yet) have the right washers for those two. So I'll go back and redo them once the right washers come in.

How does my squeeze-out look?

High-res version: https://i.imgur.com/I5hQs6n.jpeg, https://i.imgur.com/nptaiYS.jpeg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758897051.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758897051.jpg

And yet, we build every diecast aluminum case engine with prevailing torque nuts, just like Porsche factory did on every Air-cooled engine after the 3.2 Carrera.
Our only difference is that we use Supertec assembly lube and .030" hardened AN washers instead of generic 8mm washers.

Hey Henry, quick question for you - I forgot to put the Down Corning on my o-rings as I was putting it all together. I only oiled the o-rings.

Should I get a new set of o-rings and remove the through-bolts one by one, dress new o-rings with Dow, and put them back in? What would you do on a customer's case?

As long as your o-rings did not shred or squeeze out you should be fine.
The trick behind the Dow 55 is that it lubricates the o-ring during installation but when the o-ring hits 180 degrees, a chemical reaction causes the o-ring to swell while compressed creating an even tighter seal.

Putting little things back on top. I accidentally started torquing this m6 bolts to the 18 ft/lbs instead of 8, and stopped when one aluminum washer crushed out. I did not reach 18.

Have I likely destroyed my gasket?

Also, the stud for one side of the oil thermostat is missing, so I'm going to have to come up with something for that. I presume an m6 bolt, cut off, will serve?

Also not sure if I need a special washer beneath the switch. I dug through my giant bag of washers from the kit and found something that seemed to mostly fit.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1759064444.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1759064444.jpg

I’ll confuse things a little more
The factory uses regular nuts and waves washers on the thermostat, breather cover.
Don’t use nyloc nuts inside the engine, use regular nuts, waves washers, locker washers on the oil pump.
Bruce

Wave washers (and others) are removed from DIN since they were found useless...

DIN 127, DIN 128 and DIN 6905
DIN 137 and DIN 6904
DIN 6797
DIN 6798
DIN 93, DIN 432 and DIN 463
DIN 526
DIN 7967

what washers do you use when fastening the cam towers to the heads?

I'd like to know this too! I will go back and check my photos from disassembly.

Also, curious to the expert's opinions on disassembly/cleaning of brand new pistons and cylinders.

Do I pull the pistons out and check the ring alignment?
Do I remove the rings to clean them even more thoroughly?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1759147667.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1759147667.jpg

I have yet to take apart a factory built motor that had split washers or just flat washers in cam tower or inside the cam boxes.
Don’t worry about ring alignment, the rings will align in moments where they want to run.
I have always had to assemble a new set of Mahles but I’m sure they know more about P&C than we do.
Bruce

That sounds like a story. This is my first (and hopefully only) new piston/cylinder set.

Looks to me like the CIS “hump” is oriented at the bottom of the cylinder and it is supposed to be on the left. You’ll need to separate the piston from the cylinder, so you can clean, oil, and orient everything at that time.

What is the weight differences from the other pistons in the set?
Casting in the piston should be 93L7 for 8.5 compression of 78/79, or what is the match number from old pistons in case they were changed?
Yes, the low face of piston goes to the right to face the spark plugs
Bruce

I have a full new set of identical pistons and cylinders, all Euro 3.0 Liter, 95.0 mm, 9.8:1, Nikasil.

I'm trying to determine if I need to remove all these pistons from their cylinders, clean, oil, borrow/buy the ring compression tool and re-assemble. Or is it OK to lubricate, properly orient the piston, and start putting them on?

Disassemble and clean. Many have found new P&C to be quite dirty.

John

You just showed one Porsche piston, so I was inquiring
By the box, you purchased directly from dealer?
Maybe that’s why they were pre assembled…
Bruce

That could be - I bought them through a local shop that helped me organize and build a full parts list, and is providing some guidance for my work.

Sounds like a plan. I'm pulling up videos of the process and will begin cleaning shortly. I'm looking to borrow the compression tools to put it all back together.

Just go to NAPA and get the metal coil that uses 1/4 inch drive to tighten
Usually less than $10 on their tool tree.
The band with locking pliers may not have the correct band for 95mm and it has more bands than you’ll ever need or use..but the pliers are good for pulling the fan housing band together to get the bolt in.
Bruce

This thing?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1759197437.png

Yes

That's what I used. As long as you are assembling your P&Cs on the bench, it works fine.

Sounds good. I'm a little anxious about getting those wire circlips in - they are not normal circlips with holes. Typically this style are inserted with a pusher tool (kind of like an old cigarette lighter).

It takes a lot of wrist action with needle nose pliers and getting them set.
Good option is 22 mm Stomski Racing circlip installer and a nicked screwdriver to install the clip into the tube.
Bruce

That's what I was afraid of. I'm hoping my local shop can lend me the circlip tool, especially for the mounting on the rods.

I used to just push the 22mm clips in with my thumb and finish sliding it into the groove with a screwdriver. The 23mm clips caused me to get the installation tool set.

And way easier with the bottom row of studs out of the way
Bruce