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Trying to source a 3.2 replacement vacuum line rubber reducer
I had to remove the rubber reducer on my vacuum line on my 3.2. It was split, so I cut off the steel crimp and thought it wouldn’t be a big deal finding a suitable replacement, but everything I have looked at this far is not a good fit. The straight rubber reducer on the oil tank (pictured below next to the taller reducer I need to replace) is a fairly close match, but the larger ID is way off, and I think it would be too short anyway. Bummer Porsche only sells the reducer when you buy the whole line with it!
I can surely Frankenstein something to work, but was hoping that somebody may have already done this and found a suitable straight rubber/silicone reducer to use. Seeing as it’s for vacuum, the wall thickness needs to be relatively stout to keep it from collapsing. I could also braze a short extension with a larger OD so that I could use the oil tank reducer I bought. Any ideas appreciated! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758930737.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758930737.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758930737.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758930737.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1758930737.jpg |
I've had problems like that on turbo installs and we cured it with an adapter sleeve made on the lathe from aluminum bar stock.
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Quote:
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Slip one fuel line piece inside a larger and add some avation permatex for a seal and clamp the ends.
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This might be called a 'bodge' fix....
Completely degrease the fitting inside and out. Use super glue to bond the cracked part almost instantly. Build up the outside with layers of a tough sealant when dry.. I have been using Soudal T-Rex. Let it cure completely and it shold seal well. Just not sure for how long. |
An old spark plug boot works great.
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Put some heat shrink over it and heat it until the heat shrink seals the crack.... double up the heat shrink if you want as well.
Done it a few times.... |
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