Trying to source a 3.2 replacement vacuum line rubber reducer

[85RedCarrera]

I had to remove the rubber reducer on my vacuum line on my 3.2. It was split, so I cut off the steel crimp and thought it wouldn’t be a big deal finding a suitable replacement, but everything I have looked at this far is not a good fit. The straight rubber reducer on the oil tank (pictured below next to the taller reducer I need to replace) is a fairly close match, but the larger ID is way off, and I think it would be too short anyway. Bummer Porsche only sells the reducer when you buy the whole line with it!

I can surely Frankenstein something to work, but was hoping that somebody may have already done this and found a suitable straight rubber/silicone reducer to use. Seeing as it’s for vacuum, the wall thickness needs to be relatively stout to keep it from collapsing. I could also braze a short extension with a larger OD so that I could use the oil tank reducer I bought.

Any ideas appreciated!

[Turbo_pro]

I've had problems like that on turbo installs and we cured it with an adapter sleeve made on the lathe from aluminum bar stock.

[85RedCarrera]

Originally Posted by Turbo_pro

I've had problems like that on turbo installs and we cured it with an adapter sleeve made on the lathe from aluminum bar stock.

Yeah, I may have to go that route. I was hoping to find an off the shelf item. After 1.5 hours perusing vacuum fittings online, I realized that I could have fabricated it and been done already!

[Flat6pac]

Slip one fuel line piece inside a larger and add some avation permatex for a seal and clamp the ends.

[mikedsilva]

This might be called a 'bodge' fix....

Completely degrease the fitting inside and out.
Use super glue to bond the cracked part almost instantly.
Build up the outside with layers of a tough sealant when dry.. I have been using Soudal T-Rex. Let it cure completely and it shold seal well. Just not sure for how long.

[dannobee]

An old spark plug boot works great.

[Jeff Alton]

Put some heat shrink over it and heat it until the heat shrink seals the crack.... double up the heat shrink if you want as well.

Done it a few times....

[85RedCarrera]

I’ll have to sift through my spark plug boots to see if I’ve got one that matches up.

The double fuel line idea sounds pretty stout. I could even put heat shrink over that.

I feel stupid now for removing the crimp- I could have repaired the tear easily using any one of, or a combination of these methods

I’m also liking the super glue + heat shrink idea. I could put a couple layers of heat shrink on it after.

Thank you for some great ideas.

[SlateBlueTarga]

I had the same problem a while back. I ended up going down to my local NAPA and picked up a piece of 15/32 brake servo hose. The hose was supple enough that a shot of WD-40 helped it stretch over the big end without much fuss. It looks like it belongs there and is holding up fine.

John

[85RedCarrera]

Originally Posted by SlateBlueTarga

I had the same problem a while back. I ended up going down to my local NAPA and picked up a piece of 15/32 brake servo hose. The hose was supple enough that a shot of WD-40 helped it stretch over the big end without much fuss. It looks like it belongs there and is holding up fine.

John

Damn, that looks like it came straight from Germany...!

[Flat6pac]

Straight from Germany and my Carrera stash
Bruce. Pm if interested

[john walker's workshop]

Heat shrink works great.

[PeteKz]

^^ That's a great idea. I've used it to repair the arm on reading glasses too.