Motor Rebuilt First Start Questions

[Ovis]

Hoping the brain trust here can help answer a few questions I have on trying to get my motor started.

The motor has been rebuilt and put back in the car. This is an early motor. (1966). I was going to attempt to start it, but then realized I had some wiring issues I needed to figure out. I wasn't getting 12 volts of switched power back to the electrical console, it was only showing about 9 volts. I wasn't able to work on the car due to work, so it's been sitting a couple months now since the motor was installed.

After replacing my original fuse panel and cleaning up the grounds, I believe I have the wiring rectified. Therefore, I am ready to attempt to start it.

With that said, I believe the oil has drained from the tank into the case as it sat, as the dipstick nor the gauge is showing anything now.

My understanding is that to prime the motor with oil before starting, you need to turn the car over without the coil connected until the gauge shows a blip of pressure. Now that the oil has drained from the tank, is it still ok to turn the motor over in that manner?

Also, I know there are threads with varying opinions on initial starting, but if anybody wants to share their process for starting and breaking it in, I am all ears.

My process and understand is/was, first prime the motor by turning it over until the gauge blips a bit of pressure.

Attempt to start the motor. Once it is running, run it at 2000 rpms for about 10-15 minutes to break in the cams/rockers. Once this is complete, change the oil.

Add break in oil, drive it for about 500 miles.

If anybody would like to add in or correct me, I am all ears. Seating the rings, what is the best way to accomplish that?

Thanks in advance for any and all help!

[PeteKz]

Yes, the oil will drain from the tank into the engine sump if you let it sit for several days or more. As long as you know you put in the necessary amount of oil, don't worry about it.

Lots of opinions here on how to break in engines. Others will chime in. The main thing pretty much everyone agrees on: After starting it, run it up to 2000 RPM for 15-20 minutes. The reason is to get the oil squirting and splashing around the interior parts of the engine, rockers/lifters, and cam as quickly as possible. If you plan to use a break-in oil, start with that, and follow the oil manufacturer's recommendations.

Remove the spark plugs and disconnect the coil. Then crank it until you show oil pressure for a few seconds. Then reinstall the spark plugs and coil connections. Then attempt to start it.

[Ovis]

Thank you Pete, I appreciate the insight. Just for my own knowledge, why is important to pull the plugs, and not just disconnect the coil, when priming the oil system?

Appreciate your and anybody else's help who chimes in.

Originally Posted by PeteKz

Yes, the oil will drain from the tank into the engine sump if you let it sit for several days or more. As long as you know you put in the necessary amount of oil, don't worry about it.

Lots of opinions here on how to break in engines. Others will chime in. The main thing pretty much everyone agrees on: After starting it, run it up to 2000 RPM for 15-20 minutes. The reason is to get the oil squirting and splashing around the interior parts of the engine, rockers/lifters, and cam as quickly as possible. If you plan to use a break-in oil, start with that, and follow the oil manufacturer's recommendations.

Remove the spark plugs and disconnect the coil. Then crank it until you show oil pressure for a few seconds. Then reinstall the spark plugs and coil connections. Then attempt to start it.

[Magyar Kiwi]

Hi
Pulling the spark plugs removes the compression load from each compression stroke and allows the starter to spin the engine faster, building oil pressure faster.
I would drain the oil from the sump and put it back in the oil tank, so that the oil tank is full before starting the priming process.
Cheers

[boyt911sc]

Ovis,

Test run your FP and make sure you don’t have any fuel leak/s. You don’t want to find the fuel leak/s during your break-in period. Play safe and have a fire extinguisher available. Have your battery fully charged a day before your scheduled start-up.

Take a deep breathe and make a sign of the cross (optional) and turn the ignition switch to START. Good luck.

Tony

[Ovis]

Thank you everyone that has chimed in so far. I've got so much time and money into this motor, I just want to make sure I do it right. Hoping to hear it run before the snow flies.

[Ovis]

She ran....

Thank you to everyone that has helped me along the way. 5 years in the making, I could cry.

[Nate W]

Congratulations that must feel great! Go drive that thing

[PeteKz]

Originally Posted by Ovis

She ran....

Thank you to everyone that has helped me along the way. 5 years in the making, I could cry.

Savor the moment.
Then go drive it to finish your break in, and then drive the snot out of it!

[Ovis]

Just a quick question on the break in. I understand that the rings won't be properly seated until I load the motor on some spirited drives. My question is, during the 20 minute 2000rpm run in, is it normal for quite a bit of smoke to be coming from the motor? I am assuming yes, as the rings haven't been seated, but just wanted to get others thoughts before I worry myself to death.

[PeteKz]

The rings are seated already. The current generation of pistons and cylinders use much narrower rings with different coatings, and smoother cylinder surface finishes. That's why new cars no longer have strict break in procedures.

I'm still somewhat old school, so I drive it moderately for the first 100 miles or so, getting on and off the gas, then progressively harder on and off the gas. By 500 miles, I just drive it like I usually would (spirited acceleration and deceleration). I use the oil I plan to run in the engine for break-in, then change it and the filter around 1000 miles.

As for your smoke, remember, there's a lot of oil and assembly lube and other stuff in the cylinders, intake manifolds, exhaust manifolds, etc., and it takes a few minutes to burn off, maybe longer. Just drive it and if you are still getting smoke after you have put 100 miles on it, then start to worry.

[Ovis]

Thank you Pete. I was just a bit taken aback by the amount of smoke and want to make sure I am not hurting the motor somehow.

[mikedsilva]

Originally Posted by Ovis

Thank you Pete, that makes a lot of sense. I was just a bit taken aback by the amount of smoke and want to make sure I am not hurting the motor somehow.

The rings are seated already. The current generation of pistons and cylinders use much narrower rings with different coatings, and smoother cylinder surface finishes. That's why new cars no longer have strict break in procedures.

um.... what pistons and rings and cylinders did you use in this build? Are they that much different from the original design of this engine?

My thoughts are, get it into the car, and drive it. Don't go up hills in top gear. But rev it up to maybe 4k.. after a few hundred miles, I would change the oil and filter and then go for it.

You don't have the baby it.. just be a little sensible.

I'f you're clever enough to rebuild it successfully, you'll be fine running it in.
Upload a video for us to enjoy the running!

[Ovis]

I used JE pistons and LN Nikies. Everything I've read says the rings need to seat, as well as the advice of gotten from my friend that helped me with this motor. Therefore, until I am able get the proper drive in, I would think its fairly normal for it to be putting out a lot of smoke during the 20 minute run in (also taking into account all of the assembly lube and what not that is in the motor).

Here's a quick video of first starting it up.

https://youtu.be/8oiXzpqR64k

Originally Posted by mikedsilva

The rings are seated already. The current generation of pistons and cylinders use much narrower rings with different coatings, and smoother cylinder surface finishes. That's why new cars no longer have strict break in procedures.

um.... what pistons and rings and cylinders did you use in this build? Are they that much different from the original design of this engine?

My thoughts are, get it into the car, and drive it. Don't go up hills in top gear. But rev it up to maybe 4k.. after a few hundred miles, I would change the oil and filter and then go for it.

You don't have the baby it.. just be a little sensible.

I'f you're clever enough to rebuild it successfully, you'll be fine running it in.
Upload a video for us to enjoy the running!

[PeteKz]

I recall that you put in new pistons and cylinders, but Mike asked the right question. Disclaimer: If any doubts, check with L&N.

And let's see a driving video.

[Ovis]

I've got a few gremlins to work out before it's on the road. Maybe the brain trust here can give me a few pointers. First, the alternator doesn't seem to be charging. I am pretty sure I have it wired correctly, but if anybody has any ideas I can look into before I tear back into it, it's much appreciated.

Also seems my temperature sensor isn't working. I'll check continuity when I get a chance, but it is a new unit so should be good to go.

Still need to adjust the shift linkage and clutch, if anybody has any good resources or videos for that, I am all ears.

And finally, and this is the most aggravating of all, the damn ball socked on the accelerator pedal/cable keeps popping off. My dad mentioned this used to happen to him too, but seems there should be a simple fix or explanation.

Thanks to everybody for their help along the way, this motor sounds awesome!

Josh

Originally Posted by PeteKz

I recall that you put in new pistons and cylinders, but Mike asked the right question. Disclaimer: If any doubts, check with L&N.

And let's see a driving video.

[Jeff Alton]

Running it for 15-20 mins with no load does NOT seat the rings. Take Mike's advice and go drive it, Lots of load, up hill load and decel load to pressure on the rings from both sides. One of the risks of cam break in high idle is not seating rings. With a carb motor, if carbs are not set up close, there is additional risk of washing down the cylinders. But everyone has their own opinion on that.

Now, was the smoke you were seeing grey/black or more blue? If blue(ish) get out and put a load on the rings for even just 20-30 miles. Get the engine to operating temp, give it load, keep revs reasonable (no need to redline) and then let it cool, check for leaks etc. But get some load on it....

[Ovis]

Thank you Jeff, I appreciate that. I do realize the 20 minutes (more like 15) wasn't to seat the rings, but rather break in the cams/rockers. I will drive it soon while putting a load on it as suggested.