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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Seale, Alabama (25 miles south of Auburn, Al.)
Posts: 466
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JW,Warren,Wayne,Anybody ,I need your help
I need your help,
I bought a rebuilt 3.0L motor to swap out with my 2.7, After I installed it , I had problems. The problem is that I can only drive the car 15 to 20 minutes at a time. As it heats up (210-225) it starts to slow down, I can press the pedal to the floor and with a load on the motor (car in second or third) and I can’t get it to rev above 2800 rpm’s. It starts bogging down. If I take it out of gear and rev it up it will rev higher. It seams to run smooth, no popping, no missing, and no backfiring. It just doesn’t go. As I have stated in another post it feels like I’m dragging a greyhound bus behind me. I set the timing and idle speed; I adjusted the mixture back and fourth with no change to the problem. I checked the plugs and noticed that all three of the ones from the left are covered in oil and fuel (rich). The right side is light gray to white and dry (lean). I pulled all of the injectors and placed them into separate bottles, pushed up on the sensor plate for 30 seconds or so, then compared all of the bottles. They all contained the same amount of fuel. I do have spark at each plug; I’m using a MSD 6AL box with a blaster coil. The rear bumper is scalding hot, it cannot be touched by the bare hand without burning you. (New Dansk sport muffler and SSI). My old motor (2.7 with factory exhaust) never even made the bumper warm. Could it be that the left side cams are not timed with the right side (if that’s possible)? Could the valves be too tight? If either of these conditions were true, I would think that the motor would run rough. Could the new muffler be faulty or clogged which might cause the heating of the bumper as well as backing up the exhaust? Here is a update to my problem, I ran it for about 5 minutes this morning, and I noticed that I could touch the left side SSI on the heat box or the actual exhaust pipe going to the muffler inlet, it was worm but not hot. The right side was untouchable (hot) this is a new SSI and muffler, so the left side shows no sign of heat wear. The right side SSI is burnt (Bluing affect) looking which is normal. The left side muffler inlet shows no signs of heat stress and the right side looks ashy white again normal. It seams that the left side is having the problem, the plugs on that side is coated with oil and fuel and the exhaust is cool to the touch. The right side is lean or normal and the exhaust is hot (normal). So what’s causing it? 1980 3.0L CIS in a 77 911s I’m lost; I need your help please! Rick
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Red 1977 911s 3.0L (27230) 2013 Base Cayenne 3.6L Last edited by RickKlem; 09-07-2003 at 10:01 AM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: So. Calif.
Posts: 19,910
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Not knowing what was done to the engine, first perform a compression test, then let us know the results. This should tell you the basic potential of the engine to produce power. I could guesstimate, but that could result in unnecessary labor and expense.
Sherwood Lee http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars |
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Author of "101 Projects"
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I'm closing this thread since you cross-posted in the 911 Forum. Don't do that again, as it is a waste of bandwidth and people's time...
-Wayne
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Wayne R. Dempsey, Founder, Pelican Parts Inc., and Author of: 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 911 • How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 Engines • 101 Projects for Your Porsche Boxster & Cayman • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 996 / 997 • SPEED READ: Porsche 911 Check out our new site: Dempsey Motorsports |
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