Machine Shop Work

[mtelliott]

Picked up a 1982 3.0 SC with 106K miles and the engine partially disasembled by a non porsche mechanic. Need some advice:

Do I really need to tear it all the way down, send out to a machine shop in California to check tolerances, and then rebuild? Or can I utilize a local machine shop to check the cranks for cracks, clean everything, have the heads redone, then put it all back together. The engine was smoking when they pulled it apart. The cylinders look excellent and the pistons look like they should according to Wayne's book. Only thing I know is that they overfilled the oil resevoir which could have been the major cause of the smoking. Also know that the guy that owned it probably drove it hard but did replace things when they had problems. Although, his solution was typically to throw money at it.

Anyone else's thoughts? Do I have to spend the big money at the machine shop or not?

[kstylianos]

Since the engine is out of the car and is partially torn down, you should AT LEAST replace the bottom Dilivar head studs if this has not been done yet. To get to these, the P/C's need to come off. Depending on the type of cylinders you have, you'll have a few questions to ask yourself.

If Alusil: Should I remove the pistons from the cylinders to get them measured and risk new rings breaking in. Should I reuse the same rings?

If Nikasil: No brainer, remove the P's from the C's and at least get them measured and diamond honed if needed. No ring seating issues here if properly honed.

How much farther down you want tear down from here is up to you. Since you only have 106K on the engine, the bottom end *should* be in decent shape if properly maintained. The condition of the rod bearings will give you an idea. You can remove the rods w/o splitting the case. Refreshing the bearings is cheap ($60) and don't forget new rod bolts.

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by mtelliott
Do I really need to tear it all the way down, send out to a machine shop in California to check tolerances, and then rebuild?

that's a subjective question. but the big question is how much $ you have to spend.. $$$ can fly. Or you can fake the whole thing.

and Competion Engineering in Calif is my favorite.
IMO, CE is a no-brainer......Ron

[mtelliott]

The are Alusil. So, does that mean I'm hosed (new pistons and cylinders)?

I think I've made the decision to break the case and at the very least, clean it up.

I figure while I'm there, I'll replace the bearings and what not.

Motor Meister has a great Marketing ploy about how they can do a lot of the machine work. But then, I've heard some negatives about them. Along with some positives. So, I'm really not sure on that. Went to a local machine shop and ruled that out.

So, what are your thoughts? I would like to keep the rebuild under $3000 but can go up to $4000. I plan on doing the assembly myself, just need the machine shop portion.

[RoninLB]

I think that if your pistons and cyls are in spec, especially the top ring land, it's doable......Ron

[mtelliott]

I'm glad to hear that. The cylinders look to be perfect but I haven't had them calibrated yet. That will be the big question.

Thanks for the advice. Since I'm new at this, I can't seem to get enough right now.

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by mtelliott

Thanks for the advice.

many time my advice is "In My Opnion" [IMO]. there is some wonderful advice around here from many wonderful people. We may not always agree, but we're still all wonderful. Good Luck..

[1fastredsc]

If you really want to keep those ausil's, i can give you a contact to a shop in jersey that has the ability to lapp the cylinders for reseating.

[mtelliott]

Would love a recommedation.

Quick question? How do I know if I need to do anything to them. Do I need to have them measured for tolerances or is it more than that?

[Wayne 962]

You don't have to necessarily send it to CA - just make sure you use a shop that works on Porsche 911 engines often. As you read in the book, there are lots of little nuances that are unique (and important) to the 911 air-cooled engine...

-Wayne

[cstreit]

Originally posted by mtelliott
Motor Meister has a great Marketing ploy about how they can do a lot of the machine work. But then, I've heard some negatives about them. Along with some positives. So, I'm really not sure on that. Went to a local machine shop and ruled that out.

Do a search in the Technical Forum on MotorMeister and that should answer your question. In short, don't. (IMHO)

The good news is that a 3.0L case generally does not require much in the way of machining, but if you plan on keeping this car for a good amount of time, you might as well.

Better to go with an established shop and send it out only because the consequences for failure are high and, even though these guys tend to be slower, you need not be worried. Peace of mind is worth a lot.

[mtelliott]

Originally posted by Wayne at Pelican Parts
You don't have to necessarily send it to CA - just make sure you use a shop that works on Porsche 911 engines often. As you read in the book, there are lots of little nuances that are unique (and important) to the 911 air-cooled engine...

-Wayne

The nuances are of course what makes me so anal as to doing this right. It's been a wish since I was 14 and I saw the first SC. Now that I have it, I just want to make sure that I take my time, read everything I can at least 20 times before I begin, and then 20 more as I proceed. As always, thank you for any advice that anyone provides.

[jonesb930]

As far as a recomendation for a machine shop I would like to put my 2 cents in. I had all of my machine work done by Ollies in Santa Ana, CA. They did nice work and had a resonable turn around time. There prices are in line with most shops and they are easy to deal with. From what i understand Andial uses them often as they are the ones that suggested them to me. Give them a call and they will fax you there price list.

Ollie's Automotive Machining
510 Terminal St, Santa Ana, CA 92701
Phone: (714) 558-7334

tell them Bill Jones from Jupiter sent ya.