Balancing engine with ATV stand

[MovOvr1]

Hello all,

I am going to remove my engine this winter to fix some oil leaks and do regular maintanence items. I have read many people using an ATV stand as a platform to remove the engine on, but my question is, where do you balance the weight of the engine?

Is it simply balanced on the headers (heat exchangers) or do you build a platform to spread the weight (this is my thought of the whole thing). I will be removing the transmission with the engine.

Thanks for any input as this is my first engine removal with a Porsche (or for any porsche for that matter). I can't tell you how many times I have read Waynes books in last 3 months preparing myself for this project to make sure I have everything I need (INCLUDING ZIPLOC BAGGIES!!!).

I am still having an issue with my own mind about the front chin spoiler smashing into the ground when the rear end is in the air 30"+!!! I was going to jack the front end up in the air and set the front tires on ramps and then set the back end up in the air to the 24.5 " that is recommended at the torsion bars. But I don't know if this is the best way to go.

thanks.

Brian
1979 Black 930

[Jay Auskin]

I just blocked the front wheels, and put the rear ones on wheel ramps. If you lift the front, then it will be harder to get the engine out due to the reduced angle. Also, remove the rear valance. It gives you alot more removal space. I used a standard floor jack to remove my engine, but with the ATV jack, I'd assume that the middle-rear of the heat exchangers is where you want to support the engien to keep it balanced with the trans. The trans isn't that heavy, compared to the weight of the engine.

[TedSlick]

Did you happen to see this thread:
Engine drop . . . day one

...that includes this pic showing how they used a slightly modified pallet:

[jgparker]

That thread kind of scares me. It took a bunch of guys almost 8 hours to drop a 911 engine??? I'm a total amateur, and it generally takes me 40 minutes from when I walk into the garage until I have the engine out, and I've done it in 25 minutes on my car without a rear roll-bar.

I just have to show these picutes again. I'm a really big advocate of using a very high lift jack, and a jack adapter. Pelican sells the adapter, and a very nice version of the high lift jack. There are also a cheap chinese versions of the jack available elsewhere.

[MovOvr1]

THat is what I needed!! Thank you. Is that the jack that lifts to 29"? I am probably going to order that one in a week or two. How high is your back end off the ground with the front off the ground like you have it? THat is EXACTLY the way I wanted to do it?

THank you again!!

Brian

PS. Any additional pictures of your drop that you have would be great!!

[jgparker]

I don't mean to brag, but my jack has 32" of lift. Most ATV and standard 2-ton jack have about 18". I was never able to pull a 911 engin using a normal jack without either doing a two-stage drop, or removing the induction system and/or rear valance. More pictures on the way.

[jgparker]

I think I raise the car to around 30" at the rear valance, but I'm not sure. I usually just max out my tall jack stands and the rear torsion bars. These are the only two other pictures I found on the drop. That was 2 years ago. I've swapped engines around 5 times since then.

[MovOvr1]

What adapter do you have on the end of the jack?

32" huh....that's pretty impressive!

[89turbocabmike]

Brian, I'm dropping mine tomorrow morning with an $89 ATV jack. I'll let you know how it goes and post some pics. I've done some dissassembly today and estimate I will have it dropped in about 2 1/2 hrs. I'm doing it without removing the valence/bumper and I've cut out a pad of plywood for the engine and trans. We'll see how it goes. A fellow pelicanite offered up his jack and support tomorrow.

JG, 40 minutes is pretty impressive! I'm sure that's doable once you have a rythm. I'll be even more impressed if you can transfer from the jack to an engine stand, that would be smooth!

[jgparker]

Yes, I can actually transfer my engin directly fron my jack to my engine stand. The key is the high-lift jack, and a two legged engine stand. Here is a picture of the jack adapter that pelican sells. This one is for the engine and trans together, but there is also a version for just the engine. I plan to modify mined to do either, but have not gotten around to it yet. For now, I use a wide flat rubber jack pad on the sump plate for the engine alone.



Thanks,

JP

[Doug E]

JP - 25 minutes??? Does that include jacking the car, draining the oil, removing the CV's etc ? Maybe there is something different about your car but I don't see how that is possible on an SC or Carrera.

That tread that Ted referenced was one of our first drops here in NoVa. I don't think anyone really cared about the time because we had so much fun hanging out and working together. When we dropped my engine last weekend we were done in under 3 hours.

BTW, I started with my rear at 37" to give me more then enough space to work underneath and then I lowered it down to where the engine was resting on the pallet when we were ready to do the actually lowering.

[jgparker]

Doug,

Yes, really, 25 minutes, I swear. The key to the CV joints is a eneumatic impact wrench (Removal only!). I do other things while the oil is draining. I'll admit I was going for time that one time. I have seen a VW engine done in 3 minutes, but that was with wire and bolt cutters. If I had a beer in one hand, and 10 friends over, it would probably be close to 8 hours. Unfortunately, I don't have any friends. I think it's because I brag too much about my jack height and my pull-times.

Thanks,

JP

[89turbocabmike]

Well, the engine is out! I underestimated my time on this! It ended up taking me about 6.5 hrs. Fellow pelican Jim aka "Buttjoint" who graciously lended his jack, encouragement and help for the final disconnects and engine lowering. I probably could do it in about 2hrs with practice on account that I get quite anal about protected all exposed hose ends and orifices! As predicted the rubber-centered clutch disc broke. Now time to clean things up abit as I await parts from the "fatherland" and Pelican.


Jim's sweet '88 Cab, around 56K and clean in and out!

Thanks Jim!

[Wayne 962]

The engine is much easier to drop if it's been recently done, if it only has carbs, if you've done it before, and if it doesn't have fuel injection.

You can get a fuel injected engine out in about an hour and a half if you know what you're doing and you're not rushing. At 25 minutes, I think I would be rushing - I don't like to work too quickly that I might make a mistake...

-Wayne

[jgparker]

As Wayne said, there are a few less things to disconnect on an early carb car, and everything is a litttle easier to get at.

[snowman]

Well, not to brag, but I have dropped my engine in....15 minutes, single handed!! And I did this while almost crippled at an advanced age. This, of course was not the first time, but shows what can be done, reliablly, with a lot of experience and knowledge of EXACTLY what has to be done. With help of several people and many beers the same process can be accomplished in is little as 8 to 9 hours.

PS

I will admit to having forgot to disconnect the speedo, or whatever once or twice.