911 SC head recondition question
 

After chatting with my friendly machine shop tech concerning the reconditioning of my heads, he suggested using firmer springs from Jerry Woods Enterprises. These springs offer protection from a possible over rev not exceeding 9000 rpm or there abouts.
Has anyone gone this direction? His advice seems acceptable to me. There would be an additional charge of around $300.00 which I would gladly pay for a bit of additional insurance to protect my engine from the novice driver of the car( Me!).
Any advice or stories would be appreciated!

Yep, it's common for folks to install stiffer springs. If I did that, I'd also want to use Ti retainers.

Building a race engine?
If not, stock springs are perfectly good, sez the pro who re & re'd my 3.0 heads.

Dougs right - stock is fine if you're not going to 8000K red line...

-Wayne

It will put more pressure on the cam geometry and associated parts.

For the street where you never miss a shift, stock is fine.
For the track, where um "accidents" do happen, stiffer valve springs and light weight retainers make a missed shift an "ooops" vs a bunch of bent valves and a trailer ride home.
-Chris

Thanks Chris! I will track the car in DE events. I know I will miss shifts while learning. I've already had to trailor the car back home once due to mech failue. With more track time scheduled, I'd like to have a bit of insurance.
In time, I want to race PCA. My goal is to build that car in a couple of years! This rebuild, is meant to get me back on the road for pure Porsche driving pleasure and to learn more on the track!

Another option is to get new stock springs. I'm told they get weak over time. When I rebuilt my engine I found a mark from the intake valve on top of 2 pistons. Although I'm not racing now, I approach 6k often enough to want to make sure. I replaced my springs and valves.
$108 here on pelican for new springs. 1/3 of the cost of the race ones.
Just another option / opinion.
What are you doing about rod bolts?

William, I will use stock rod bolts. I feel that going with ARP or Raceware would be over kill for this re-build. If adding race type springs will create addition stresses on other components I may be causing problems else where. I wonder if I use the Jerry Woods springs valve springs, which components I would have to consider upgrading?

The SC's rod bolts are plenty strong. The rod bolts become an issue with the later cars that had 9mm instead of 10mm rod bolts. The stiffer springs will make the rockert press on the cams a little harder.
-Chris