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Just checked mine with this procedure and it was simple! Thanks!
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Could anyone post a pic of a new squirter ? There seems to be a kind of spring/valve mechanism behind.
By the way thanks for your tips. I fought with my squirters a few hours before reading this post. Some open up without pressure others don't. |
Don't fool around...buy Steven Stomski's piston squirter cleaner tool. It will save you hours.
http://www.stomskiracing.com/products.html It's not listed on the above URL but call him and ask for it. Norm |
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Hello, Phillipe.
J'aime vos pissettes d'huile nettoye. Bon chance David |
I just ran into a problem on a 3.0 case. On previous cases I had them dipped and cleaned and in those cases was able to use the method above with a bit of carb cleaner to get them all spraying nicely. I used a different shop this time and had a hell of a time getting the #5 and #6 squirter to flow. After an entire bottle of cleaner and a bottle of the locktite freeze lube the #6 started behaving. # 5 just wouldnt clear. I was at my wits' end and decided to fish around inside the squirted from the case side with some safety wire. I bent it into a little hook then fed it down from the bearing side. After a little fiddling around down there, the next squirt of cleaner came right through.
I squirted a lot of cleaner and lube through there after and never found any debris. I am assuming the squirters just 'froze' too much for the carb cleaner and penetrants to clear up but was loose enough for the safety wire to jiggle it free. I know you aren't supposed to stick wire down tehre but since the next step was to remove the squirter I gave it a shot and it worked... |
I have for years used safety wire with a bent hook on the end put in a battery operated drill to loosen stubborn squirters with no ill effects. I use the lowest speed on the drill and use carb cleaner while spinning the safety wire very slowly and I have yet to damage a squirter.
aws |
SmileWavy
here is how i did it.. same but different. i took some rubber hose, sprayed it with WD-40 and slid in a nice round screwdriver beside it. then added some brake cleaner to the main bearing oiler and then followed with compressed air. once i figured out what i was doing, the others went very fast. [Pics] http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1329694555.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1329694590.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1329694612.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1329694632.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1329694654.jpg |
This thread inspired me to make a tool for this task, as I could not find a suitably sized chunk of rubber hose to seal the passage on the 3.6. Seems I could back when I did my 3.2 - maybe the bores are different, maybe I have different hose leftovers on hand.
Some 6mm allthread, a few threaded bits of aluminum, and a bit of 1/4" ID rubber fuel line, did the trick beautifully. I used the knurled aluminum bits because I can, but the concept works just as well with some M6 nuts & washers. I'd use a longer chunk of allthread, hold it with vise grips on the outboard side, and use a deep socket on the inboard side. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598313095.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598313095.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598313095.JPG For the other side, the old standby of vinyl tubing and an inflator sort of worked, but it was a pain in the neck to get it to seat. The 10 degree cone worked well. I drilled the back end .219 and pressed it onto a 1/8NPT x 1/8" nipple so it would screw onto the blow gun. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598313468.JPG http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1598313468.JPG |
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