Cam Nut removal options???
 

Need some suggestions...I've been working for two days trying to get the cam nuts broke loose. No luck. I've got the 46mm crowsfoot and the other cam tool, using a 2 ft. breaker bar and a 3 ft. piece of pipe for leverage on both. Still no luck.
Any suggestions as to how to get these loose? I don't have access to an impact wrench.

Not sure what to suggest at this point really.

I am in Orange County, (as a last resort) your more than welcome to cart that engine up here and I could zip it off for you...

Chris

Hi Dan:

No easy answer here, I'm afraid....you either need:

1) More leverage (longer bars)

2) A good air-operated impact gun

3 ) C-4 (effective, but not recommended except as a last resort)

Chris's offer is lookin' real good,.....:)

If you don't want to cart the whole motor to someone you could break the motor down to the cam carrier+chainbox. Any of your buddies have a nitrogen tank and an air gun you can borrow?
-Chris

Sounds like it is time to buy an electric impact wrench.

Anybody see any problem with heating the nut with propane to expand it thus reducing the torque he has to overcome?

I think heat is a good idea. I would also think about knocking on a corner of the nut with a cold chisel to try to loosen it up.

E-Z....just find your local tool rental joint, and rent a beefy Milwaukee™ electric impact wrench. (No....ugh....cold chisels please).

Thanks for all the input. I'll try the heat first since I have a torch, then the impact hammer (mechanic shop at work) then the C4 as Steve suggested (last resort...this may put the garage back into original condition before I started the P-project...haha)

I would not use impact. I take a breaker bar w the Cam socket and wedge against the motor mount studs. then w another breaker bar crack the 46mm nuts loose. works every time no heat, no impact

I've already tried that with 4' bars, only thing that happens is the crowsfoot springs open and spins off the nut. Total result...3 scraped knuckles and a pulled back muscle.
I'll try the heat tomorrow.

Be careful not to get too much heat on the aluminum chain housing or the thin alum. thrust plate behind it!

are you using the official porsche crowsfoot? It's a really beefy tool. There's a few 46mm crowsfoot wrenches that will just bend under 200ft-lbs of torque

YOu need the proper tools to do any job. In this case the proper tool is an air impact wrench, period.

Has the engine been apart before?

I've heard some folks use loctite on these threads for 'good measure'.

Heat up the threads to break any bonding material (if any) and try again. A 4' breaker SHOULD get it off.

I'll use a soldering torch for plumbing that I have, that way there isn't as much heat as a regular torch. Thanks for the advice on the aluminum, Chris. Tim, I've got a 46 mm from sears, Pelican still has theirs on backorder, (3 weeks now). Impact wrench next option. Charlie, as far as I know from talking to the PO, the cams were upgraded to RS versions, and mechanical tensioners were installed. No knowledge on P&C's or the case. That's why I've decided to go all the way down to bare case and start over.

If you heat it up take a piece of candle wax and let it melt into the threads, for some reason this helps to loosen things up.
Works great on cast iron blocks with oil line plugs etc, but im not sure a propane torch
will get it hot enough.
good luck

Breaking the bond, it it is locktite, requires more heat than any porpane torch can do. At the min MAP gas is required.

Stupid cam nuts
 

Well, so far heat from MAP gas, candle wax, long breaker bars, and......No luck.
Next step impact wrench at work, then......C-4 as suggested:D
I will accomplish this mission, I will, I will, I will:mad:

Try Sir tools for the 46mm crows foot. That probably where Pelican gets them from.