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Bird. It's the word...
 
Fishcop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
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Pics of Engine Rebuild (short block)

Well after a couple of weekends renovating the garage I began the short block. No real problems at this stage, although the leaking engine thread and the debate over case sealants is scaring me! I used Wurth Orange which I'm reliably told is the same as the loctite... plus it was free!















Currently trying to get the deck height correct and it appears there is a .25mm discrepancy from the right side to the left. I will definitely have to try and source 1 mm spacers as there has been cutting on both the spigots and the heads.

This is a 2.7 RS spec engine (carbs), and I will also have to check for valve clearance later on, so the rest of the build will be quite slow. Do you think I can risk not checking valve clearance if I stick to factory RS specs including correct pistons and cams?

Cheers

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John Forcier
Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 04-29-2004, 04:24 PM
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Lookin' good, though honestly I think you're making a mistake there.

Guiness works better than Caffrey's.

Nice work so far!
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Chris
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Old 04-29-2004, 06:10 PM
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I don't believe 1.0mm shims are available. Get ready to stack 'em.
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Old 04-30-2004, 03:54 AM
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John,

Your engine and your shop look great, thanks for sharing. I found 1mm shims a couple of places (EBS & CE). You're probably going to take some flack for using a universal engine stand. If you are reasonably confident that you'll have adequate valve clearance, proceed with final assembly and check the clearance using the adjuster screw method. the worst case it you have to pull your heads back off again, and replace the head gaskets.

Good luck,

JP
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-- Last Engine rebuild project, Now a coffee table.
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Old 04-30-2004, 04:23 AM
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Were the 1.0 's for the 2.7? Damn, I wish I knew that a month ago!
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Old 04-30-2004, 05:09 AM
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Don't worry about my experience with the sealer hardening. Since you had everything layed out and ready to go in, you shouldn't have an issue.
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Old 04-30-2004, 06:37 AM
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Yup, the 1mm base shims were for a 2.7 (or 2.8). I think I got mine at EBS, but CE has them too:

http://www.competitioneng.com/NP911-930.htm
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-- Last Engine rebuild project, Now a coffee table.
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Old 04-30-2004, 09:22 AM
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Chris, I'd normally fuel up on Guiness, but Caffrey was all I could find on the day... certainly better than nothing.

JP, I know I should have the correct yoke, but I have a month wait before I can borrow one, so I thought I could get away with the universal for the short block. Thanks for the link to CE, I'll fax them this weekend.

Thanks Wayne, I wanted a bigger one but you have no idea just how hard it was to steal that one from the wife! And thanks for the book
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John Forcier
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Last edited by Fishcop; 04-30-2004 at 06:50 PM..
Old 04-30-2004, 06:46 PM
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Hi John,

Glad to see your well on the way. Who did you get to line bore your case? I just put my short block together today. I had no real problems either. I used Loctite 518. It has a slightly longer setting time but goes on like thick treacle. The only thing I should have done was count the through bolt O rings before starting. I've 2 left, and there was no way I left any out. The Porsche bag they came said 25, but I think they must of thrown an extra one in. The number of alloy washer was out too, but I can see all those.
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Old 04-30-2004, 10:40 PM
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Hi Paul

I didn't line bore after all... Ryan (Obrut) put me on to hs mechanic, Nick, at Eurosport. Lets just say "bearing blue and die grinder".

The kits are never 100%. Mine came without a front pulley seal. To what spec are you building your 930?
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John Forcier
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Old 05-02-2004, 01:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fishcop
Thanks Wayne, I wanted a bigger one but you have no idea just how hard it was to steal that one from the wife! And thanks for the book
The trays I use are standard oil-drip pan trays that are about 3'x2' and are available for about $10 from just about any good local auto parts store. You might want to check it out...

-Wayne
Old 05-02-2004, 09:58 AM
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Thanks Wayne, I'll have a look. It's a public holiday over here this weekend so I'll have to wait a day...
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John Forcier
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Old 05-02-2004, 06:06 PM
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Hi John,

My 3 litre 930 will have 7.5:1 JE pistons, ARP head studs & rod bolts and 964 NA cams. It already had an EMS computer fitted to it before I started the rebuild. I'am also hoping to get the turbo flowed and rebuilt. My case was line bored by Porsche Centre Melbourne and they supplied all the new main bearings. When I got the cases back the number 8 bearing was so tight that I couldn't get it to sit properly in each case half so I gently sanded the sides of it so it fitted really snug without to much force. Needless to say I was very apprehensive re the rest of the bearings and how they would fit. They all had the right numbers and I checked them all with Porsche Centre Melbourne before I started assembling the case. When the case was together and all torqued down to spec the crank turned over really nicely so I breathed a great sigh of relief.
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Old 05-03-2004, 01:30 AM
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Yeah, it was the same kind of suspense for me too. I'd trial assempled the case several times before I was satisfied with the fit, but I was still apprehensive when I put it together with sealer for the final time!

Post some pictures when you get a chance.
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John Forcier
Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 05-03-2004, 03:19 PM
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I would check the valve to piston clearance. I have an RS spec engine and I did a dry assembly of the top end. Clearance was marginal on the exhaust (.050) and unacceptable on the intake (.030). I had the pistons cut to get at least .060 on intake and .080 on exhaust. Porsche built these engines with very little extra clearance with "S" cams. A dry assemble only takes a couple of hours and will give you peace of mind.

-Andy
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Old 05-03-2004, 07:16 PM
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Thanks Andy

I'll definitely be doing the dry assembly thing as I'm probably going to go a slightly bigger cam than the S.

I'm surprised there was so little room! Thanks for the heads up.

Cheers
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John Forcier
Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 05-03-2004, 09:12 PM
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You're an inspiration to this newbie!
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John

The Stable:
1985 Carrera Cabriolet (RoW) Sold
2002 Chevy Tahoe LT (The Wife's)
1999 Chevy Silverado (Parts Hauler)
1969 Volkswagen Beetle (Purchased From Original Owner)

I'm slower than the guy in front of me, but faster than the guy in back of me.
Old 05-06-2004, 04:30 PM
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Thanks John, but with this board and Wayne's book even a newbie can have a go.

I'm currently having my cams (74 CIS) reground to S spec. So can't do much more for a week or so.

I abused the wife's dishwasher with the cam towers and chain boxes it think it did a good job, just a little carb cleaner finished them off. I took Snowman/Garabaldi's advice and drilled the plugs on the cam spray bar/squirters, this certainly enabled me to clean the towers and spray bar much better, it is easy to do and the replacement plugs are cheap.

When I get the cams back I will do a trial build and check piston to valve clearance, and some more photos.

Cheers
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John Forcier
Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway
Old 05-06-2004, 06:28 PM
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YW John. You really are.

BTW, I really like how clean you keep your shop. I can't wait till my new house is finished being constucted. It will have a very large three car garage, as oppossed to my current two bay garage. I'll send pictures when I get it set up. It will have all the good stuff: fridge, killer stereo system, cable TV, heaters, phone, internet access (so I can chat with my fellow pelicanheads), and plenty of Porsche art on the walls!

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John

The Stable:
1985 Carrera Cabriolet (RoW) Sold
2002 Chevy Tahoe LT (The Wife's)
1999 Chevy Silverado (Parts Hauler)
1969 Volkswagen Beetle (Purchased From Original Owner)

I'm slower than the guy in front of me, but faster than the guy in back of me.
Old 05-06-2004, 07:56 PM
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