Here are a few engines being built at SUPERTEC
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1086619410.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1086619424.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1086619437.jpg 3.2 Carrera being built for a shop in N.Cal. Note the SUPERTEC head studs

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1086619448.jpg 2.75 twin plug (70.4x91) for a 67"S" soft window Targa
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1086619459.jpg 2.8 liter twin plug short stroke (66x95) for sale

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1086619469.jpg 73 911s for customer in So. Cal.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1086619481.jpg 2.7s cis engine for in house project car
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1086619496.jpg 3.5 liter twin plug Tech II 600 + hp for customer in detroit. This is his third engine from SUPERTEC

Great idea with the rubber bands on the rods!

Hi Henry: the 2.8 looks interesting? Any specs? How much $$$?

What are the "Supertec" head studs?

Go to www.supertecperformance.com and go to new products. We have designed an all new heads stud kit that is far and away better than the competion.
The SUPERTEC head stud kit will soon be available on the Pelican parts web site.

The green bands are actually 3.6 cylinder base o-rings.
If you pay attention you can learn something new everyday.

Who is the competition? What makes the studs superior? What material are they made from? What is the tensile strength? I am interested, tell me more about them, your site doesnt tell much about them. Do you manufacture them?

The competition is vast ( ARP, 993 factory, Raceware, Dilavar, SSF Super stud) and I believe that Pelican parts sells them all.
What's better about SUPERTEC head stud kits:
Longer threads for more depth in case.
Fine thread nut for smoother and more consistent torque.
Aerospace material.
Basic stud design the same as 935 Factory racing stud.
Nuts are 12 point serrated flange. ( great for twin plug application)
Harden ground washers.
Threads are rolled not cut.
Studs are ground to size.
Heat treated
Polished
Rockwell tested.
And I guarantee them against breaking for life, that's forever.

nice

How do you get the cases so clean?

We do it the old fashion way....
 

First we throw the case in the dish washer, let it spin for a hour or so. Next we throw it on the ground and spray it with Red Hot. Then comes the magic part, we scrub it. We use a bristle brush and we scrub.
High tech or what ?

My friend just read this and he tells me if I don't show you a picture of our dish washer that one of you is going to email me telling me his wife just kicked him out for getting grease on her Mikasa china.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1086648083.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1086648096.jpg

Henry, any idea which of the competition has cut threads? I'm just curious even though I'm not in the head stud market right now, I know how much difference that makes on bicycle spokes :)

Sorry, can't let this slip:

Can you be more specific? :) :) :) :) :) :)

-Wayne

Yeah, we've been in the space age for over almost 50 years! LOL :)

Nice engines BTW

More specific, I guess so
 

The material was found in a factory race engine built by Porsche and made big HP in the 80s. You guess what it was
Here goes.
Remembering that I am a mechanic not an engineer the specifics are as follows:
17-4ph HCR 38-42 4hrs @ Temp 1025
http://www.latitudemanufacturing.com/174PHPrint.html

I am an engineer and we use 17-4PH turbine blades at work. There has been some stress corrosion problems with this material. I'll try to do some research at work tomorrow to see if it's a problem in this application.

As for the rolled threads, I doubt there are any cut OD threads on any manufactured fasteners anymore. If there are, I would sure like to know who, as would anyone that's buying them.

I was actually teasing Henry lol :) I've been a big fan of ARP fasteners for years now on my watercooled race motors but I doubt they put a lot of effort into figuring out the whole expansion think on a 911 since the market is so small compared to their other applications. I don't know much about Raceware so your studs, designed by guys who race these engines, are of interest to me. I'm hoping to do a build up next winter and would of course be using top quality fasteners.

I couldn't find any SCC problems with this material in this application; in fact it has very good corrosion resistance compared to other fastener grade stainless steels. So it looks like this is a good material for head studs.

My only concern would be the coefficent of thermal expansion which is similar to Cr-Mo steel. Since it's much lower than aluminum, there will be a cyclic stress due to the repeated heating and cooling. Since the stress at temperature is much lower than the yield stress this shouldn't be problem either.

I couldn't find material properties for ARP or Raceware, but I'll give them a call later today if I get time.

Henry, were the "found" studs on an engine that came to your shop? I like your lifetime gaurantee! ...nice engines!

I think "shifter" has it right, most OD threads are rolled these days.

Here is copy from a site that sells ARP studs:

"our Porsche 911/914-6/930 studs have rolled threads, fine threads at the head end of the stud for more accurate torquing, and include a 12-pt hardware kit, complete with nuts and washers, and ARP's special torquing lube."

More:

"The ARP 2000 material used to make our Porsche 356, 912, 914 and VW Type 1 and 4 head studs, thru-bolts, and connecting rod bolts is about 33% stronger than the stock material, with a 220,000psi tensile strength and improved fatigue characteristics. That’s even more than typical chromoly studs which advertise strengths of 180-190,000 psi, but rarely live up to their promises! Additionally, our ARP studs have rolled threads and the ARP 2000 material does not suffer from stress corrosion and hydrogen embrittlement, providing care is taken during installation. "

I wonder what the the ARP stud is made of and the factory 993 stud material?

http://www.arp-bolts.com/pages/tech/matspec.html

The ARP alloys can all be mapped to standard commercial alloys or modifications of commercial alloys. The Russians apparently have a "super" multiphase alloy containing some aluminum developed during the cold war; some tests have been done on it (it's good stuff) but we haven't pursued it as they have now patented it and may be producing it commercially.

The best available overall stuff for head studs is probably ARP3.5 (MP35N); it is hard to beat for a combination of strength and corrosion resistance. It is likely an overkill choice though given it's high cost (35% cobalt content). The 17-4PH while just barely a space age alloy (there were V-2's being launched when it was introduced to the aircraft industry after WWII) is a good choice for head studs but only because this application is less demanding strength wise as the Porsche engine case base metal (Mg or Al) will likely fail first even with thread inserts.

As an aside, 17-4 PH would not be a good choice for rod bolts (it's too weak) and I don't think you'll find anyone using it for such an application.

Cheers, Jim

Hi guys
We stated that the threads were rolled because they are rolled, not because they are the only ones that are rolled.
There is a feature about our studs that is unique ( as far as I know) our studs have fine thread 10 x 125 on the nut end. No other stud that I know of has this feature. Not ARP, Not Raceware , Not SSF and certainly not Porsche.
As for the material: I am not an engineer. I got advice as to what the stud I found in a race engine was.
We tried 7 different designs.
We have used them in street and race engines for over 4 years.
Never any failure.
We like them. That's why we are now offering them to the public. If you like them buy them From Pelican Parts. Ask for them by name. SUPERTEC heads stud kit.

I think the reason everyone is talking about rolled threads is just because I asked which studs had them... no worries!

It's Done
 

We started assembly monday AM. Ready to ship to a shop in No. Cal. Tuesday 2:30 PM. I wish all our projects went this smoothly.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1086731432.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1086731450.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1086731466.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1086731479.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1086731513.jpg

Fine looking engine; because I'm a pessimist I'd ship it blocked in a full crate.:D Jim

Thank's for the advise.
 

Well, insurance being what it is, we make money if they break it.
It's a win win. They get to be stupid and I get paid to repair it.:) :) :)

Henry, what type of coating is applied to the cooling tin? Is that a powder coat color or some kind of dip? Inquiring minds...

OK..had a look at the web site. The big question is how much for the stud kit?

Cheers

Mark.

Henry, thanks for the info and the pics. Those are really Super looking engines. I would have to bring one into the house for a week or two just to introduce it to the family. It could sit at the dinner table with me. That's not a privilege I lend easily.

I apolpogize for these guys who play Doubting Thomas. I am convinced and when I need such items, I will be in touch with Supertech or PP.

Gorgeous projects Henry!

I'm no engineer either, but if anybody wants to hear what materials and fabrication techniques are actually going into military and space flight hardware...I could probably find out. ;)

In response to the plating question, see here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=164007&highlight=cadmiu m

-Wayne

Helarious pic of the engine ready to be shipped with ALL FOUR ENGINE MOUNTING BOLTS AND STUDS protruding from the case. Way to risky.

GET A LIFE
 

You guys are amazing. We build a long block engine from bare case to ready to ship in 1 1/2 days and all you can comment on is the packaging. Perhaps you missed the point ?

OH MY GOD, YOU"RE RIGHT ! THEY COULD BEND A STUD, THEN WHAT WOULD WE DO ? :)

In 19 years of building these engines and shipping them on an open pallet we have had only one mishap. A fork lift driver stuck a fork into an oil cooler.
Insurance paid for a new one.
Thank you for your concern but we're shipping engines here (although they may look like artwork) not Ming Dynasty artifacts.

I think they look great, Henry. I'm not sure why sayah felt the need to say that. Maybe because he's a say ... ah. ba-dum-bum.

The plating as stated on my receipt is :
Cadmium AMS QQ-P-416 F Type II Class 3
Color gold.
We do all of our hardware so it is done in batch form, no wire.
The company that does this for us has asked me not to refer Porsche customers to them anymore because they seem to complain too much.
Kind of a shame, isn't it?

The big answer is.
You can buy the SUPERTEC head stud kit from Pelican Parts.
The retail price is $594.95 and the part
number is SPTC-HSK-1.
They are ready to ship now.

<a href="http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_enginB_pg4.htm#item15">http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1086808598.jpg</a>

No, it's NOT broken. :p

These are now available for purchase here. Thanks Henry!

Do you also sell the socket for that nut?
How much does the torque change with the finer pitch thread?

Two good questions
 

The socket is a standard 14 mm 12 point socket. Because of the low torque valves, a thin wall 3/8 drive works fine.

As for the torque values, there are three different values listed in the installation instructions.
Thanks for your interest.

i like your nuts henry.














sorry.

I fully, fully disagree! That bolt looks very very broken!!!!!?????



heh, heh, heh,