PBH, doesn't your garage stink with that leaking tranny lube? I once had such a leak and you could tell I was coming from a mile away because you could smell my car. As for engine oil, a little should leak so your macho 911 can mark its territory. Afterall, this isn't a Miata.

the concetric issue you had with this 2.7 is consistant with the trouble Porsche is having with the 996 currently. I think the spec. is within .4mm. Engine replacement is required if more..

Great fix BTW! I have been searching around my garage looking for the horizontal mill that I have misplaced:)

Chris

Send me all your scrap 996 engines.

Amen brother! As long as it ain't drippin' on the exhaust...carry on.

I went thru this on my rebuild. The lip arround the crank had a gap.
I chalked it up to an installation problem. Using Wayne's book the method is to put the seal on the crank, then install the crank all before mating the halfs. I suspected that while watching everything else during mating, I must not have noticed that the seal must have been tweeked or defective. (It looked fine when I slid it on the crank.) I pulled and replaced that seal. I have a very small leak now. The engine is out again because I'm restoring the rest of the car. I have a new seal ready to try again.

I like the idea of measuring for ovality, but I'm not sure I can do it. I have a dial bore gauge, but that won't go because of the crank. Are calipers the only way to do this?

One question. While installing the seal, how deep in the recess should it be pressed. I had a debate on this with a freind. He drove his in so the face was even with the inner part of the bevel at the outside end of the recess. I drove mine in all the way which I guess (It's been a while.) was about 1/8" inside the bevel. The sealing area on the crank is pretty wide and looks/feels in good shape.

PBH, I guess you can confirm that the OD of the recess is not tapered.

So what is the correct depth to install the seal? Drive it in a little past the bevel or drive it home?
I'll go back and look at your picture as well.
Any help is appreciated. I want to do this right one more time before I start looking for case problems.
Mine's an 82 SC case. As far as I know it's a virgin.

I've installed the restrictors as well. I have also wondered if this in itself may lead to leaks.

I had another leak following the rebuild which turned out to be a return tube o-ring that split across. This was a green o-ring if that matters.
The split tube replacement tubes have been dry so far.
Thanks! Great work and impressive tools!

You can check the ovality with feeler gauges or, the quick way with a metric dowel. I think is 10mm? It should feel snug all around the diameter, if it is significantly looser/tighter in some areas you have a problem.

You can also test the seal after installing. You should not be able to slip a small piece of paper between the shaft and the seal without feeling resistance from the seals spring. If it slides right in you will have a leak.

Sorry, but I side with your friend. Push it in to have the seal bevel flush with the case bevel. If it goes in too far you can actually disturb the shaft seal and cause a leak.

Thanks, I was hoping to have someone confirm that. I think that may be part of my problem if in fact it is this seal that is leaking.
All the measurement suggestions and checks are good too.

Post your ovality results please. Interested.

PS it's summer, get your car on the road. :)

It's going to be a while. I'll try and remember when I get to this part of the project.

I am installing a new flywheel seal as part of my clutch job.

So what is the consenus on gluing the seal in? Do I need to or should I just slip the seal in? If I do use glue, does it have to be Curil T or is there another glue that I could buy locally?

Thanks,

I would be inclined to do as Wayne suggests. Curil T.

I can't see anything wrong with it, nor can I see any benefits to other products.

Holimar and curil T are the same substance, if you can't find T locally.