87 rebuild questions

[jok3r]

Hello everyone, im looking into rebuilding my 1987 911 3.2L engine with 120,000 miles. Ill be doing the rebuild myself with my dad and am looking to spend $3k usd for everything. Im interested in getting the Motor Meister's top and bottom rebuild kit for $800, could you guys advise me and tell me if this is a deal or not. I need advise also for choosing new pistons, rods, crankshaft, rockers and anything else you think ill need. Id like to get more hp out of the engine so if you can advise performance parts that would be great. If i missed anything just let me know. Thanks

[cnavarro]

Welcome to Pelican.

Do a search for MM as well as a search for rebuild cost, that's my first suggestion. Second, i'm not sure your budget is realistic. You probably should disasseble and clean everything, then measure to see what is worn and what is in spec. That will guide you to what you need to buy vs. want to buy :-)

Why do you need to rebuild your 3.2, with only 120,000 mi. Seems kind of young for a 3.2?

You might want to get a copy of our host's how to rebuild and modify your Porsche 911 engine. It will go a long way to helping you estimate cost and help with your rebuild. I also think there is a rebuild wizard in the pelican parts store, to help price things out. It will give you an idea of what the real cost of parts are.

[jok3r]

Yeah i didnt think my budget was realistic either. Are those rebuild kits worth the price?

[cnavarro]

Nope. Use your gut feeling, if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

[BReyes]

Very true.

Have you taken it to a shop the builds race cars?

I remember the first time Dave White told me "thats a $30k motor"

Have you had a leakdown/compression tes(s)?

How much oil does it burn per 1000 miles is a guage. Does it smoke only at start up? How long? How often? What time of day? Does it smoke at WOT? Have you changed the oil lines? How are your fuel lines looking? Then ask yourself, what is budget for exhaust eExhaust, Chip, Air filter?

3k is way too low. I encourage you to do what is necessary. Remember the tools are necessary too. Your budget should be set first.

This forum is good source for parts/technical knowledge. You will learn alot from your first R&R. You can have lots of fun too.

Regards,

[jok3r]

its smokes pretty often even after start up but does not leak, im not sure if it sounds too good to be true. They seem to know what there doing here is there link if you would like to check them out. http://www.motormeister.com/

[cnavarro]

Do a search for your own sake. There have been many discussions about motormeister. I'll just leave it at that.

If you want a realistic and quality rebuild kit, consider Pelican or calling Engine Builders Supply (EBS Racing). Both sources can be extremely helpful.

Before tearing the engine down, you need to do a leakdown to determine the source of the blowby.

How about trying a thicker motor oil?

[BReyes]

How about at WOT. Leakdown/compression tests and with luck its a couple of valve guides no valves, on the other hand a top end rebuild may be recommended.

You see if you pull the towrs and heads (you can in two pieces) you probably want to change the rings, but your bearings may be good. Have you considered sourcing a good longblock or motor?

Have you thought about dropping it, removing the accessories, taking longblock in (you can ship it if no techs in your area)?

[Eagledriver]

I did my first top end overhaul on an 86 Carrera with 95k miles on it. I think 3k is doable for a top end only. Most likely the only reason you are burning oil is worn valve guides.

You can spend 10k doing a top notch total engine rebuild. It will be like a new engine and last you 150k miles or more. In my case that would be 30 years of driving.

You can spend 3k doing a top end overhaul only replacing what is worn out and the gaskets. Your engine will likely still go another 100k miles after that (20 years in my case). The math worked better this way for me.

I suspect you'll find that the valve guides need to be replaced and maybe some valves. I'd measure the piston rings and reuse if they are in limits. I bought a new set of rings last year that had a worse fit than my old rings. I ended up using my old rings and returning the "new" set.

I would buy my parts from Pelican or EBS in that order. I've found that if I buy a quality part from Motor Meister I end up paying as much or more than other places. The key word here is "quality". What they advertise never seems to be what the price ends up being.

-Andy

[Shelton]

I just did what was going to be a top end on a 86 3.2 with 98,000 on it. Valve guides had minimal wear using dial indicator,but valve stem seals on exhaust side were cracked and very brittle due to heat allowing oil to reach exchangers while sitting and at idle.Therefore on idle car would puff smoke intermittently. Replace only seals car has about 2,500 miles since and doesnt smoke at all . Did replace fuel pressure regs while engine was out, but that was about it.

[88911coupe]

Shelton, it's interesting that you did not have worn valve guides since that usually the cause of high oil use in our cars. I'm using oil pretty heavily and plan to do a top end and I'm assuming it's the valve guides but I guess it could only be the seals. I don't think I'll get that lucky though!

[Shelton]

All Im saying is go into it knowing that you may need to go through the entire top end ,machine heads , guides ,valve stem seals etc. But I would not touch the case unless your motor has been major neglected.

[jok3r]

thanks guys, ill probly do just the top end rebuilt and also get my pistons, rods and crankshaft rebuild and my cyliders ported and polished.

[jok3r]

also what do you gain from port and polish?

[Shelton]

you gain better flow, its a very costly procedure because of the time it takes to do it right. You would be better off just doing a three angle valve grind to the seat. Porsches factory seat is approx 2mm, by cutting that surface down to 1mm and forty fiving the inner and outer sides you also increase flow and save many bucks$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ You could just send the heads to John Walker in Seattle he does great work and is very recommended by the pelicans

[jok3r]

cool thanks, how much would that run me for everything and where can i contact him?

[Shelton]

john walker's workshop
7613 greenwood ave. n.
seattle, wa, 98103
206.789.6800 jwworkshop at aol.com


Give him a call ,tell him what you have and he will point you in the right direction. His shop is major 911 work, and he's been doing this for 30 years. Good Luck, Shelton

[jok3r]

thanks alot, do you think its worth the money to rebuild my pistons, crankshaft, and rods?

[Shelton]

INITIALLY YOU SAID 3K FOR EVERYTHING. IF YOUR ON THAT KIND OF BUDGET YOUR LOOKING AT THE TOP END ONLY. PISTON ALONE ARE 3K PLUS DEPENDING ON WHAT YOUR TRYING TO BUILD. REMEMBER THIS IS A PORSCHE NOT A CHEVY. I SPENT 38K LAST MONTH TO BUILD A 3.3 930 MOTOR FOR AX AND DE, SO JUST KEEP IT RELIABLE AND HAVE FUN, THERES ALWAYS SOMEONE FASTER AND WITH NO BUDGET.

[jok3r]

will the engine run another 100k miles just doing a top engine rebuild?