87 Top End Rebuild ????

[RoyB]

I'm just about ready to enter the world of 911 ownership. I have the opportunity to buy a 1987 Targa with 120K in excellent shape for $10,000. The current owner recently had all four brakes replaced. Calipers, rotors, pads. He bought the car from the first owner 7 years ago with 50K on the clock. He has done nothing but general maintenance. He claims it has needed nothing. But here's the kicker. The car "sometimes" lets out a real James Bond type smoke cloud. His mechanic said it needs the "top end rebuilt" Complete valve job. He suggested that at the same time as this work is being done, the clutch should be replaced. Not that it needs it now, but that it will in a year or two and might as well do it now. Not sure I understand this logic. Will the engine need to be pulled for a valve job?
In any event, his mechanic quated the work at $6000. Does this sound about right?
Would you go forward with the deal?
Thanks for any help you can give..........
Oh, BTW, who does good , reasonably priced work, within a days drive of Boston......

[aigel]

Originally posted by RoyB
Will the engine need to be pulled for a valve job?

There isn't much engine work, besides adjusting the valves and work on the chains / tensioners, that doesn't require the engine being pulled. But you must understand, that pulling the enigne isn't that big a deal, because it drops out through the bottom, with the transmission and exhaust attached. Also, there is non of that yucky green stuff called 'coolant' to deal with! Compared to an engine pull on a water cooled front engine car, it is about half, if not a third of the effort.

Going for a clutch job while things are out is very reasonable, if the clutch is getting close to the end of it's lifetime.

This may be a decent deal, if the car is truly in very good shape. What makes it desirable is the fact that it has the G-50 transmission which started in 87. If I say truly in decent shape, it should have very nice paint and very good interior, be accident free, have a suspension that needs nothing etc. All that should be left is the attention to the drivetrain. I am no value guru, but I'd think a very nice example with 120k (and no drivetrain problems) would fetch 18k tops?

The number you were quoted for taking care of valveguides and a clutch is about right. The 'top end' can include many things. Some people put new piston rings and call i a 'top end' too. So you want to make sure what you are going to get and ask more questions here.

What you need to get is a comprehensive pre purchase inspection by a reputable shop (not the one that sees the car now!). Have it checked for accident damage, suspension etc. and most importantly have a compression / leakdown check done to determine if the engine delivers decent compression. Even with worn valve guides, the compession should still be acceptble, otherwise you may have more $ to spend on the piston / cylinder side of things.

If you were a do it yourselfer, you could do a lot for about 3-4k. Then the car may be a real good deal. If you have to pay a shop, things may just even out and you may end up with paying as much for the car as it is worth. Then I'd go with a car that's ready to go and where there is no guesswork!

Hope this helps.

George

[RoyB]

Thanks George! It's interesting that you suggest that I might want to buy a car in "running" condition rather than this one with a rebuilt motor if the price is the same. Wouldn't I have a better idea of what I have if I have this motor rebuilt?
While I got you here, what if I pulled the motor and sent it to Motor Meister. It seems that for about $4000 I can get a completely rebuilt long block. Any opinion on this route?
Thanks
Roy

[RoyB]

Just did a quick search on Motor Meister, nevermind!!!

Anyone know of a good rebuilder in the New England / NJ-PA area?

[john walker's workshop]

a valve grind with all new valves should be in the $3200 range. 30 hours plus parts. add a clutch while it's out, $500-$600. add rings, rod bearings and rod bolts, $500-$600.

[aigel]

I would rather have a non rebuilt car with less miles than a car with a bad engine that I have to have redone. Main reason being that the rebuild may get to be more $ than what you were bargaining for. For 18k, you should find a nice targa that is in nice shape with under 100k miles and good valve guides. Not all 3.2 valve guides wear out that quickly either. Maybe someone can elaborate why some of them go early - some of them later.

George