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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: So. Cali
Posts: 189
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metal in the oil lines
There was some serious shavings in my oil before my rebuild -- Now that the engine is a set to go -- I need to ensure I clean the oil lines
How do I go about cleaning the oil lines while thay are still attached to the car (the oil line nuts will not budge??
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1978 911 3.0 fully rebuilt and for sale |
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JOT MON ABBR OTH
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 3,238
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I would also clean the oil tank and make sure you have cleaned all the little crevices and oil coolers. If I could not remove the oil lines for cleaning then I would likely force liquid through them, most preferably hot liquid, for an extended time to flush them all out. You can then blow out the lines. If you use a substance other than oil, I would blow warm air through the lines and allow several days for them to dry.
I'm sure someone has a better idea and will pipe up shortly.
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David '83 SC Targa (sold ![]() '15 F250 Gas (Her Baby) '95 993 (sold ![]() I don't take scalps. I'm civilized like white man now, I shoot man in back. |
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If you have a radiator style cooler you will need to have that cleaned as well and probably by a profesional, their not easy to clean. It would be a shame to have left over bits destroy your new motor.
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Tim 1973 911T 2005 VW GTI "Dave, hit the brakes, but don't look like your htting the brakes...what? I DON'T KNOW, BRAKE CASUAL!!!" dtw's thoughts after nearly rear ending a SHP officer |
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Irrationally exuberant
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This so totally sucks that you won't believe you really need to do this until you blow a motor from leftover debris. Like trying to tell someone that a "fixer upper" 911 will be more expensive than just buying a nice one, nobody believes you until they prove it to themselves.
Once bits of metal get loose in the oil system you need to clean everything in the system. The piston squirters and the cam spray bars have little bitty holes that will plug up with a speck of metal. You need to clean the thermostats and the oil lines. For the motor you need to remove the plugs on the big oil gallery and clean in there too. My machinist making me up some extra plugs this week. Lemme know if you get stuck and need them. You probably should clean out the cam carrier spray bars also. Remove the plugs on both ends and rinse them out. Porsche sells new plugs. Send the coolers to Pacific Oil Cooler. They mostly do aircraft oil coolers using an ultrasonic process. You can not just flush an oil cooler out and expect to get the metal bits that got in there while the oil was hot and the car was vibrating. The Factory procedure is to throw away the cooler. -Chris
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'80 911 Nogaro blue Phoenix! '07 BMW 328i 245K miles! http://members.rennlist.org/messinwith911s/ |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 341
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Agreed, take any of the oil coolers on the car that you were running at the time, and throw them out, dont bother cleaning them, just get new ones.
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: So. Cali
Posts: 189
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All, I was able to remove the oil lines and tank. I dropped all of the lines, tank and thermastat to Critical Operations in Santa Ana, CA.
The metal shavings shredded almost everything on the engine, P/Cs cams, etc., it has all been replaced. That is why I'm taking no chances with any left over oil. Thanks all for your help
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1978 911 3.0 fully rebuilt and for sale |
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Irrationally exuberant
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Fess up. Did you remove cas and cam carrier plugs and clean inside ?
Nag, nag. ![]() -Chris
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'80 911 Nogaro blue Phoenix! '07 BMW 328i 245K miles! http://members.rennlist.org/messinwith911s/ |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: So. Cali
Posts: 189
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Of course I did . . . actually, I bought used cams, rockers and housings and I sent everything to the machine shop for cleaning. I also had the case and everything else cleaned. Trust me . . .I do not want another rebuild in 1,000 miles. It isn't as much fun the second time round.
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1978 911 3.0 fully rebuilt and for sale |
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