rebuild my 2.7L or upgrade to 3.0L

[Docp4]

I am looking for a little advice. I am a newbie and have a '77 911S with an oil hemorrhaging 2.7L motor (105K on it) that has many modifications. I lose about a quart of oil on my garage floor and heat exchangers every 2 weeks. It is so bad that I become camouflaged in my own smoke cloud while waiting for a traffic light to change. The car still runs very strong, but the oil seems to be coming from numerous locations.

Should I forgo the expense of rebuilding this engine, including some serious case and head machining, or look for a reasonably priced 3.0L engine. When I first approached my local shop I was told to look for a 3.0L. I have purchased a case, heads (recently rebuilt by Uncle Zak), Nikasil jugs, 9.5:1 pistons, and anticipate getting a crankand cams in the next week. Now my local shop is telling me that I should simply rebuild the 2.7L after getting the case resurfaced, shuffle pinned, jugs honed, and heads rebuilt. I really could use some objective advice.

[jgparker]

Your oil leak is probably from a single source, it's just looks like it is comming out everywhere. Spend the time to identify and resolve the oil leak and then re-evaluate the need to rebuild. Most of the common points to leak can be fixed relativly easily. If the engine is still running strong, and your oil pressure is good, I wouldn't rebuild.

Good luck,

JP

[Docp4]

Thanks jgparker,

The oil is coming out of multiple locations including the oil return tube, the breather gasket, the right cam line, the oil pressure sensor, somewhere above the left heat exchanger (not sure if it is the lower turbo cover gasket or not), and the sump gasket. Is it advisable to keep going on a 2.7L with 105K without a rebuild? I was informed at some point when I bought the car that I should rebuild at around 100K due to the high failure rate of this engine. I read Wayne's book about when to rebuild.... but I cannot afford a catastrophic failure either.

[Eagledriver]

You said it has many modifications on it. If they are the longevity mods then 100k is no problem. Your car has dilavar studs on the bottom row of head studs so it should not have any pulled studs. The leaks you describe are all fixable without removing the engine. I'd work on the leaks and build the 3.0 of your dreams over the next couple of years with the parts you've been collecting.

-Andy

[aigel]

You want to pull the engine, put it on the stand, replace all the seals, lines and gaskets, wash it and put it back. Then see how it does. Oil leaks are no reason for an engine rebuild. All seals will run you about $200.

George

[sixbanger]

Could It be that you have more than enough oil in the car?

[afterburn 549]

the oil leak is probbly the oil thermistat and oil sender up on top.
Now as far as what to do about the rest of it my opinion (and this is what I did) is re do the 2.7with all the updates and it will be as bullet proof as anything else esp. compared to a used eng.!!
while you at it and go the extra mile and eye brow the cyl. and windedge the case (boat tail the mains). The $$ you spend might be a liitle more but you have a new eng!! Like I said do all the updates

[Doug Steinel]

If your car has spent its life in your beloved and cool Minnesota, you might be able to get more miles from the 2.7L than if you lived in that hell-like CA sun. Heat eats the 2.7L alive, especially with the smog stuff so loved in the Golden State.

[Docp4]

Unfortunately, the car started out in Georgia for 21 years, 3 years in Arizona heat, and 3 years in thetundra on Minnesota. It has the '74 turbo headers and heatboxes, carrera tensioners, turbo valve covers, A/C and smog removed and never came witha catalytic converter. I have immaculate records from 1977 to 1998 and nothing for the 3 years before I bought it.