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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Tucson AZ
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Well,..I just dont get it,..the temp's on my car are 240 + I had a shop ck it all out..(ck'd with a pyrometer in the oil tank) CO is set, timming is set,Front oil cooler installed (did not drop the temp at all,but gets HOT).Pulled the engine T stat and it SEEMS to open fine at 200 Degs (the bottom of the Stat opens the same amount as the top part in 200 deg water)....Ollies cleaned and tested the engine cooler....Whats left ??????? FM
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Join Date: Feb 2004
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Use an infrared thermometer on the front oil cooler to determine if the oil lines are clear and the oil is flowing properly. Use the same thermometer on both front cooler oil lines to check for temp difference. Best to eliminate the easy stuff first.
Did Ollie's install the oil cooler or just check it, could something have gotten into a line to block the flow before it was installed?
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Clifton Brown https://www.mancalamarketing.com Last edited by CliffBrown; 08-16-2004 at 01:23 PM.. |
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Also, use a pyrometer on the oil temp sensor and compare readings to the oil temp gauge. Many times the gauge and sensor are mis matched.
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Charlie Stylianos 1982 SC Targa www.Dorkiphus.com - (The Land of the NoVA/DC/MD Porschephiles) |
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ok, you're in tucson arizona, ambient temp 100°+++. what do you expect? the engine temp is a byproduct of the ambient temp. down there 220 is probably pretty good, and 240 is tolerable.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 Last edited by john walker's workshop; 08-16-2004 at 10:05 PM.. |
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Do you have a trombone cooler still? If you want to bring temps down you may have to go to a better cooler. I did.
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Andy |
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It would very bizzare for the oil cooler to be blocked,I took it from the sealed bag and installed it quickly,...John I installed the carrera radiator,The 19 row cooler and it made no Diffrence at all,( no fan either) But I thought it was to drop by 25-30 Degs..The shop said it runs around 245 I expected 220 at the most.I will do a new T stat,..and the blow all the lines with air,would air pockets cause this, I did not purge the lines after the Rad cooler ...Thanks so much for the help Guys......FM
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I have a similar problem with higher then usuall temps. I thought that it would be cured after my rebuild since the cooler was completly gummed up outside and I had the oil cooler ultrasonicaly cleaned. Once the rebuild was done my temps were the same. After further hunting I found a 90% crushed oil return line coming back rom the serpentine loop. Im in the process of fixing it.
Just thought Id mention to look for a crushed line. |
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I would like to know if that fixes your problem,You would think once leaving the cooler the temps would be Ok...But Iam sure it also a flow issue aswell...Thanks for the info I shall re-inspect the lines.....FM
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are your hot temps only when stopped or when moving?
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Andy |
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Both....The only thing left to do,..New Temp gauge and sensor,New T stat (old one works) blow all lines clean and add a fan to the external cooler..FM
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Quote:
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2007 Mazda 3 hatch 1972 Porsche 914 roller with plenty of holes to fix
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Try not, Do or Do not
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Just a thought.
A few years ago we had a 3.0 come in from an Econo Lube & Tune. They had just gotten an oil change and the car was running hot.
We looked at the customer, perhaps a bit condescending and said " your car can't run hot because of an oil change". Well, we checked everything we could think of with no luck. We finally decided to remove the sump cover just to look inside and sure enough the lube guy installed the venturi style oil strain improperly causing the pick up to be partially blocked. This caused the scavenging to be impaired and the engine was filling with oil and the engine ran hot. We installed the oil strainer properly and sent him on his way. My tech and I ate about 5 hrs worth of work but laughed about it later. Moral of the story, "some people can even screw up an oil change". Check your strainer just for grinns.
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Henry Schmidt SUPERTEC PERFORMANCE Ph: 760-728-3062 Email: supertec1@earthlink.net |
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Thanks for that Info Henry,...But I pulled that style of oil strainer and installed the all screen version from my 77'....FM
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Try not, Do or Do not
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I would advise you to put the venturi style strainer back in. It is far superior to the early style all screen strainer in delivering oil the the pump.
We always use the late style strainer in high performance engine's that require a strainer.
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Henry Schmidt SUPERTEC PERFORMANCE Ph: 760-728-3062 Email: supertec1@earthlink.net |
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Hmm,...The P shop I deal with told me that that type was robbing oil from the engine( in hard turns ) thats why I pulled it,..But I shall install it and see what happens...Thanks again Henry.....FM
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Now in 993 land ...
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Are your cylinders and head fins spanking clean and free of obstructions? No critters built their nests on top of them?
Is your fan spinning (no slipping of belt) correctly? Do you have ALL your engine tin and rubber lips in place, so all the air that enters through the decklid has to exit through the bottom of the engine? Is your ignition timing set correctly and does your distributor's advance work properly? These are a few things that may contribute to your condition. Also, as said above, check with the IR thermometer at the sending unit's location and make sure your readings are correct. George |
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what's the night time temp there in arizona during the summer? 80°? i bet it runs cooler at that temp.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 Last edited by john walker's workshop; 08-19-2004 at 07:09 PM.. |
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Your probably right, plus i'm not running HE's and my headers are coated, that might count for something in the temp department so your probably right.
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2007 Mazda 3 hatch 1972 Porsche 914 roller with plenty of holes to fix
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