Rocker Install Logistics
 

OK, I'm stumped. I've just gone through cam timing, which was wonderfully easy, but now am confused on rocker arm installation order. I have two questions:

1. With the chain boxes on, there is no way to install two of the #1 and #4 rocker shafts without pushing in the shaft through the thick side of the cam tower. What to do?

2. Wayne's book says the bolt head should always be facing an inner galley, however if this is the case I can't get a torque wrench in the available space. How does one do this? I can have all my bolt heads with the exception of #3 and #6 work this (assumng I've started with #1 and #4) way using a long extension, but for those two, do run the head facing out so I can torque it, or do I point it in the galley and do it by feel?

Any help would be appreciated.

Chris

i guess you have no choice but to install it thru the thick boss. just be sure it's clean so you don't cause any scoring of the bore. if you assemble the heads, towers, rockers and shafts on the bench and then install the whole unit, you don't have to worry about that. the end/outside shafts face inward with the bolt head/5mm allen side. you can't tighten them by the 8mm end. on the center ones, the 5mm end is on the side of the thin boss. that's the factory way. a 1/8" drive torque wrench, at least a snapon one, should fit in there ok.

edit, i meant 1/4" drive. must be tired.

So, sometimes you have to break the rules on the rocker shaft installation. Just be clean and careful about it if you do.

On the torquing. What is really the benefit of having the bolt head face the inner galley? Given that I don't have an 1/8 drive torque wrench, would you suggest running those #3 and #6 bolt heads outwards in a position that I can torque them with the wrenches I have, or should I face them inward and guesstimate the torque? I really don't feel the need to add an 1/8 drive torque wrench and associated hex drivers to my toolbox.

you have to think of the next guy who will be cussing you because he can't get the shafts loose without tearing down the engine. the factory spec (13#) is for new towers and shafts. used ones can loosen when set at factory spec, so do 18#. gotta be someone around with a 1/4 drive torque wrench.

This is a REALLY old thread, however, I wonder how people are correctly torquing the 5mm allen nut, from the inside of the tower.. do torque wrenches actually fit in there? I know mine doesn't.

No, they don't, which is why you use a really long and thin 1/4" extension. You can torque ever rocker arm properly with an extension.

I face mine with the 5mm towards the flywheel and the 8mm towards the chains. Use a long 1/4" extension and a 1/4" torque wrench to tighten a 5mm bit epoxied in a 1/4" drive socket. I welded an 8mm bit into a small open end wrench to hold the 8mm side while torquing the 5mm side.
Easy as pie.
Tony

rocker shafts
 

The bottom line it doesn't matter which direction they go in, other than being able to get to the 5mm end while in the car which is the most important for servicing.
Mike Bruns

We install them all accessible from the flywheel end of the motor. This way you can use a torque wrench easily to install them. Use John's higher spec, old shafts in old housings will walk out of the bore at factory torque, end of story. Never had one walk out with 18 or 19 Lb/ft of torque on them. I am not sure how many engines Wayne has built himself.

I don't care about the next builder in this case. Installed in this manner they are not going to walk out. I am not ever going to replace rockers with the engine in the car. If it needs that level or service, at minimum, we are pulling the engine...

Cheers

No one who, like me, just tighten them as much as you can with a 5 mm "L" allen wrench?

I'm no pro, just working on my own cars and some friends... So far with no rockers backing out or bolts snapping or rounding off.

I like this approach and follow it.