Oil Leak On New Build
 

Just finished the rebuild of my 3.0SC. The good news, started first turn of the key, the bad, I have a major oil leak.

The picture shows where the oil was coming from, any ideas?


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1109385411.jpg

After the 20 min inital run (as described ion Wayne's book) I had a pool of oil sitting on the garage floor.

So close.....yet so far!!!

Thanks

Stu

pulley seal.

You have to drop the engine and take off the crank pulley to reinstall or maybe even install for the first time. There is also an inner gasket seal there. Check out waynes book.

There is a small stud up where the engine console mounts to the motor, right at the top right. It may leak. The solution according to the Bently manuals is to rmove it and replace it with a bolt and some loctite to seal it up. Other than that it may a leak behind the pulley. Take a look with a flash light up near the right side of the console, on the top side, and shine it down into the pulley area and see if there is any oil around there.

Jeff

Thanks for your help.

I'm going to take a closer look today.

Stu

With that much oil I vote for the pulley seal. I misinstalled one once (the inner spring came off) and it leaked like that.
-Chris

# 8 main bearing ?

hope that it's not from between the #8 bearing and case. clean the area with brake-kleen and watch with a flashlight while it's running.

It looks like the oil is coming from between the #8 bearing and the case.

I've been thinking about it all weekend!!!, I can't figure out what went wrong, I remember putting the O ring on the bearing.

Is there anything else with the assembly that could cause this?

Yours hopefully

Stu

Was that a new #8? Did you use some small amount of sealant, Curil, around the periphery? I have not done mine yet. I have heard that this is a very touchy part of the assembly.

that sucks man, hope you can resolve it easily, if not hope you can find friends to help one weekend to teardown and rebuild quicky, so whe your weather warms up you are ready to go. If it was not for the thousands of miles between us I would give up a weekend to help out.

Jim

I had a leak like that once and I "fixed" it with JB Weld until I got around to tearing the motor down a few weeks later.
-Chris

I used a new #8 bearing and new O ring, what else should I have done?

Is there any black magic involved with the assembly....I'm not sure what I would do if this happened for a second time.

The good news is that I have at least four weeks before the snow melts up here.

Stu

My mechanic recommends reusing the old #8. Some unknown source stories of the bearings being matched to the case have made him reuse #8 bearings on rebuilds. He also has had to rebuild these because of #8 leaks with new bearing. Give him an email at bob@realmeangarage.com

when you tear it down, see how thick or thin the 574 is between the case halves. it SHOULD have squeezed out, leaving a super thin filler between the cases. i had an issue with it once, and don't use it anymore. i also use a smear of dirko sealant in the bore where the #8 o-ring would contact, just for an added bit of security against a leak.

what happens if you don't use Curil or something else on the pullley seal? What else would you use?

Posche mechanic recommended Di-Electrci Grease compound for some seals.

My #8 leaks slightly after my rebuild. Original #8, new O-Ring, and Curil-T. Luckily, it's just a few drips. Leaves about a nickel sized spot after shutdown....I'll deal with it.

I had the o-ring pinch into the case seam on mine. Lucky I saw it before continuing on with the rebuild. It kept the case haves from mating all the way.

-Andy

make sure it's not leaking past the pulley bolt, I did have this problem.
check this tread http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/187080-crankshaft-leak.html

When fitting the no.8 main bearing you should smear the sealant being used on the crankcase halves around the bearing. Doing this means you are not relying solely on the 'o' ring.
Regards Mike