Tensioners - Rebuild or Replace???

[kmhemi]

tensioner rebuild reliability?? Repair or Replace??
I have a collapsed tensioner. They are the stock items on a 78 3.0
I called around and found rebuild kits for them. They said the kit was a seal and a check ball. I thought there would be a spring in the kit as well. Will the tensioners be reliable once they are rebuilt or do the springs generally fail as well? I do have hydra-stops. they saved me.

[Alan Cottrill]

when you consider the potential for catastrophic engine damage should one of these fail, I'd say go big with a set of oil fed tensioners. If those don't fit the budget then get some new stock tensioners and install the safety collars that prevent total collapse.

[afterburn 549]

I have a rebuild kit......the parts are too small for me to fool with...just buy new or I can make ya a great deal on this in the box

[kmhemi]

you don't by chance have 2 kits do you? I just wonder how reliable they will be after a rebuild ...

[afterburn 549]

like I said I have two.....from mom here......I am pretty good wrench...but dont trust myself on that one.......1/2 price yours!

[kmhemi]

Ok I will take them .. send me a total with shipping to WV 26101.
kmhemi@Yahoo.com
If you have a pay pal account I will send it that way or whatever you prefer.
Thanks,
Keith

[safe]

The rebuild is easy, I just did it. I also wondered over why there were no springs (there is the check ball spring), but I guess its the o-rings and check ball that fail.
Just make one of these to hold the piston down through the bleeder hole (m6), or you will never get the last clip in...



If I had known from the start, It would have saved me alot of time looking for small parts all over my garage floor

[Cordts]

Magnus.. why is the bolt needed?

Keith.. did the rebuild work for you?

TIA

[fumanchu]

I am interested in the reasoning for using the bolt also, my '82 has has 140k on the originals and I will rebuild. I have seen JW's instructions for the rebuild and he never mentioned a bolt in aiding the rebuild.

thanks

[Cordts]

FUMAN - Where are JW's instructions?

[kmhemi]

Yes,
I rebuilt me tensioners using the kits. It was easy.

[safe]

Originally posted by Cordts
Magnus.. why is the bolt needed?

You need to keep the piston depressed to install the clip that holds the complete assembly together.
Its very easy to slip and see every part flying through the air...
Not to mention how hard it is to get the clip in with one hand and your other thumb blocking the way.

If you have done it once and its an relatively easy job.

[kmhemi]

and make sure you bleed them when you're done.

[kmhemi]

Oh I should mention that I added a set of emergency stops or hydra stops anyhow, they keep your tensioner from going completely flat in the event of a failure so you dont lose the timing and ruin the heads.

[safe]

Originally posted by Cordts
FUMAN - Where are JW's instructions?

I found this in a text file on my computer, they are from JW.
Also the Haynes manual are pretty good for this, it has an explodes view of the tensioners.



bleeding them of air when you're done is the most important thing.actually, a more important
thing is never look directly down at the spring loaded piston when removing or installing the
snap ring that secures it into the tensioner body. it can pop out and get you in the eye.

clamp unit in a vise by the lower mounting. remove top snap ring and
collar under it.
remove bolt in the side of the body.
grab the inner raised collar of the aluminum disc with small pliers and pull up and out.
swab out oil under it so you can see the top of the piston and the snap ring that holds it in.
the piston is depressed a tad so the ring can be removed.
it's stiff and must be rotated so one end is in the notch, so a awl or pocket screwdriver
can be inserted in the notch to pry the ring out used. be patient, and keep your eyes away.
when the ring is off, turn the unit upside down and remove the piston.
usually the check ball, seat and springs come out with it. pay attention to their order.
fish the very last piece out of the bottom of the bore.
clean everything well. inspect piston and bore for excessive scoring.
assemble the misc pieces onto the main spring, lower the piston over the stack, turn the stack
upside down and lower the tensioner body onto the stack.
hold with thumb and put it back in the vise.
(EDIT by Safe: this is where the ground down bolt comes in)
start the inner snap ring into the groove on one side with a small screwdriver and hold it there.
with another small screwdriver, press the other side down until it seats. (may take some cursing to get it in).
don't let go of the piston while you do this. keep your eyes away.
tilt the body so the side bolt hole is angled up a bit. install bolt into the side of the body loosely.
fill the reservoir with bubble-free oil. insert a key tag wire into one of the holes in the top of the
piston body to move the check ball off it's seat. slowly pump the piston to bleed out the air.
the idea is to go slow so you don't aerate the oil. refill if needed. when it has no squishy play you're done.
put new o rings inside and outside the aluminum disc. open the side bleeder bolt until you
see the bleed hloe in the threads. push the disc down into the oil reservoir and let the air
go out the bleeder. tighten bleeder. install small spring, cap and snap ring and you're done.

[Cordts]

Does the ground down bolt replace the bolt going into the side hole untill the bleading is done?? This doesnt mention anything about the ground down bolt,, it might be helpful if you edit this and instructed where the ground bolt comes in and where the ground bolt is removed and the original bleed blot goes back in.. I think I understand what you are trying to say and do,, I just want to be certain.. TIA

[safe]

Originally posted by Cordts
Does the ground down bolt replace the bolt going into the side hole untill the bleading is done?? This doesnt mention anything about the ground down bolt,, it might be helpful if you edit this and instructed where the ground bolt comes in and where the ground bolt is removed and the original bleed blot goes back in.. I think I understand what you are trying to say and do,, I just want to be certain.. TIA

Sorry for the confusion.
JW didn't mention the use of the bolt just the thumb. I found that very difficult and "invented" the bolt to hold down the piston so I could use both my hands.

From my previous post with picture:
Just make one of these to hold the piston down through the bleeder hole (m6), or you will never get the last clip in...

Then you replace it with the original bleeder bolt before bleeding it.

[Cordts]

Magnus - That is what I thought you meant,, is there any chance that the bolt can damage, whatever, it is putting pressure on? I dont have the rebuild kits yet, they are coming today.. Thanks for your assistance onthis matter.. What type of mileage have you put on your rebuilt tensioners?

[safe]

No, the bolt isn't pushing aginst the piston. The piston is pushing, with the sloped part (see picture), up against the bolt when its threaded in.

[Cordts]

Great.. I will follow up when I get these done later today or tomorrow ,, if the parts get here.. Thx