911 solid tensioners

Bruce Knisely · 08-02-2005, 05:03 AM

Help ! My '66 911 is sick .
Is anyone out there familiar with the solid tensioners sometimes used by the racers ? They are aluminum blocks that directly bolt into the cam towers and utilize an adjustment bolt with a locknut and lock washer threaded into the aluminum block. The bolt head is threaded out against the tensioner arm and when the proper pressure or tension is applied by the length of the bolt threaded out from the block against the tensioner arm, the locknut is tightened.
This seems to be a fair approach to the tensioner problem, perhaps as a stopgap measure however, how can one know how tight to set the proper initial tension ? Does anyone out there have any experience and or suggestions ? Also, how many miles between tension checks.
I am currently collecting up all the parts necessary to convert to hydraulic tensioners (later model towers, tensioners, fittings,etc.)
but I didn't intend to make the full conversion until this coming winter.
Bru

hcoles · 08-02-2005, 10:21 AM

There is a potential problem with solid tensioners. As the engine heats up the chain may not grow exactly as much as the block, head and cam towers, this may lead to a chain that is too loose or too tight. That is why the bleed opening at the top of the tensioner piston has a very low flow rate. All it needs to do is flow just a bit as the engine heats up. If you get replies from racers that have done this with no problems I guess you could go ahead. On my car I installed JWE spacers (I made these) inside the tensioners. I think running a small gap on these is probably a better idea than solid tensioners. IMHO.