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Information Overloader
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NW Lower Michigan
Posts: 29,391
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Cam Spray Bar Removal
My valve train is noisy due to, I found out, plugged cam spray bars. So do I have to drop the engine to get them out? I've done a search on removing the plugs and then the spray bars. But I wonder if anybody out there can give me a step-by step procedure for this. Since the cam towers are bolted to the heads, will there be problems getting those plugs out? Then how does one put the new ones in. Are they lock-tited or pressure fitted or what? Any info. will be greatly appreciated. And thank you, gentlemen!
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Irrationally exuberant
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You have to drop the motor but I suppose you could do it with the cam carrier on the motor if you could keep the crap you clean out of it from ending up in the oil passages somehow. Maybe turn tthe motor upside down on the stand?
With the cam carrier removed from the motor, I remove the end plugs and clean the tube in place. The plugs are a press fit. -Chris
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'80 911 Nogaro blue Phoenix! '07 BMW 328i 245K miles! http://members.rennlist.org/messinwith911s/ Last edited by ChrisBennet; 08-02-2004 at 02:57 PM.. |
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Bird. It's the word...
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Chris is right, the engine will have to come out. You could maybe remove them from the rear (gearbox) end but you'll need to separate it from the gearbox, remove the oil cooler on one side and engine tin on the other. Drill the plugs and pull the bars.
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John Forcier Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 342
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If you had crap in the spray bars, you have crap all over in the oil gallerys most likely. Smart guy woudl pull the motor and tear it all down. But forget about that for now. I have never done them in the car, but you will spend more time messing with getting everything out of your way in the time you could pull the motor and work like a human being on a stand so you can check other things out. Just a thought.
But when you get there, center punch a dimple in the center of one of the plugs at either end. Center drill , and then drill the proper size for a 1/4 or 6mm tap, tap the plug to cut threads in it, thread in a bolt and use a puller or slide hammer to yank the plugs out. you have to remove the locator bolt that looks like the oil inlet banjo at the other end, since it has a penis on it that sits inside a hole on the spraybar, other wise the bar would move, rotate and slide around. Get that out and slide the bar out. You can buy new plugs for less than $1.00. line the holes back up when your done clenaing them, and smear some RTV on the plug and tap it in. |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,031
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In addition to all the great advise above, while I had mine out for cleaning, I noticed that you can clock the spraybar 180deg out. Meaning you'll have oil spraying on your cam covers. Something to keep in mind once you reassemble. These spraybars are aluminum and they are delicate, FWIW..
Good luck!! Chris |
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Information Overloader
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NW Lower Michigan
Posts: 29,391
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Thank you all. There's no way to get those bars out with the engine in the car. I do believe removing the oil cooler and the engine tin will allow sufficient access. I am planning on packing the rockers with lintless paper to keep the crap from falling into the motor when I pull the bars. PITA.
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Left Coast, Canada
Posts: 4,572
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Quote:
I farked-up one of the originals without hardly trying. ![]()
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'81 SC Coupe "Blue Bomber" "Keep your eyes on the road, and your hands upon the wheel."- J.D.M. |
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IMHO it is not possible to do it with the engine in. I found it hard enough with the engine out. The aluminum plugs need to be machined out and replaced with a bit of careful force. Make sure you get the pipes oriented properly when they go back in.
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Norm '86 930 AEM Infinity 6 - Twin Plug 3.6L - DBW - JE Pistons/LN Eng. Cylinders - Pauter rods - GT3 Crank - GTX3584RS - ID1050x Injectors - Ported Intakes - Custom Intake Manifold, exhaust and intercooler - 993SS cams - ECUMASTER PMU-16DL HRE Wheels 560R 8.5x18 ET25 (Front) 11x18 ET0 (Rear) |
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Information Overloader
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NW Lower Michigan
Posts: 29,391
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NORM,
Did you try the suggested method of drilling and tapping a hole and using a puller, and still had to machine them out? Also, did you apply any sealant (RVT) prior to replugging? |
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Registered
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yes to both. I found that the plugs were in super tight. My machinist tried the drill and tap method but the puller would not budge them. He was able to set the cam towers in his machine and mill them out. As soon as the tool got close to the sides they finally let go. Therefore I was able to use stock plugs to replace.
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Norm '86 930 AEM Infinity 6 - Twin Plug 3.6L - DBW - JE Pistons/LN Eng. Cylinders - Pauter rods - GT3 Crank - GTX3584RS - ID1050x Injectors - Ported Intakes - Custom Intake Manifold, exhaust and intercooler - 993SS cams - ECUMASTER PMU-16DL HRE Wheels 560R 8.5x18 ET25 (Front) 11x18 ET0 (Rear) |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,031
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Not sure where you are in this project, but try heating the cam tower's up in your kitchen oven (send your wife out shopping before this and make sure to use some aluminum foil underneath) and heat to about 200-250F, serve warm
![]() This will help you with installing those press plugs.. Chris |
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Wer bremst verliert
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 4,767
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I've got the plugs out and all the oil supply fittings out. Knowing the bar is very delicate, is it just right to tap it out from one end with a plastic tube? Should I just leave it in and clean in place?
PS, there is a lot of crap in mine, looks like crystals...
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2007 911 Turbo - Not a toy 1985 911 Cab - Wife's toy 1982 911 3.2 Indiash Rot Track Supercharged track toy 1978 911 3.0 Lichtbau toy "Gretchen" 1971 911 Targa S backroad toy |
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Bird. It's the word...
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John, so long as the plugs are out and the little 10mm capture bolt has been removed (it has a boss that fits into the tube) it is right to come out. Definitely remove it to clean everything thoroughly!
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John Forcier Current: 68L 2.0 Hotrod - build underway |
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