best jacking method?

don hopkins · 11-07-2005, 07:11 AM

I have started to prepare to take my engine out. But I am trying to figure out the best way to jack my car to remove the engine. Possiblities that have been rec'd to me include:
1. jacking at the bulkhead
2. jacking just the backend at the torsion covers
3. jacking the back and front while keeping the car level; back at torsion covers; front torsion bar mounting points

Is it important to keep the car level so removing the engine will be easier in terms of balancing the engine on the jack?

don

Groesbeck Hurricane · 11-07-2005, 07:35 AM

Don,

FWIW, you do not have to jack the front end, but many do. Pelican has a jack adapter to fit your engine to help hold it steady and aid in putting the engine back in. I'd suggest you plan to remove the engine transmission as one unit.

I do too much jacking, but Jack to car up, support at the torsion covers (I also place tyre stands under the tyres, just in case). I found the motorcyle/atv jack to be easier to use when removing the engine and horrible to use when putting back in, but that is just me. Support your engine prior to loosening up the brackets holding her in the vehicle.

Have you read the re-build book and the notes in 101 Projects?

safe · safe's Garage

I jacked up my car (fron and rear to keep it level) just so I could loosen the CV-joints and transmission mounts.
Then lowered the engine down on a small cart I made.
Then, to be able to roll the engine out, I jacked up the rear very high using a 2x4" 3 feet long under the floor as close to the seem I could.

If my car had not been so low I could have skipped jacking up the front I guess..

Henry Schmidt · Henry Schmidt's Garage

The engine is far easier to remove by itself. When I started in the Porsche world 30 years ago I worked at a shop where there were no hoists. It was always our goal to remove the engine as quickly as possible because back then we were all on commission. The way we did it was with two jack. One under the center of the chassis directly in the middle with a 2x4 that reached from one side to the other. When I say middle I mean right along the rear bulk head. The jack would fit directly under the hole where the shift shaft goes into the car.
The 2x4 supports the car along the bulk head seem. One jack stand on each side for safety.
First disconnect the battery, then the shift coupler. The idea was to disconnect everything on top, fuel lines, wiring , breather hoses. Then go under the car with all the tools you need to just dive once.
Jack it up, drain the oil (both plugs, and the trans if your plans include trans service) then disconnect the fresh air hoses, oil lines, backup wires , starter wire and the two lower trans/ bell housing bolts.
Now back on top. With a second jack placed directly under the sump plate (use a fixture or board if you like) jack the engine until you just raise the engine off the mount. Undue the rear mounts (2 12mm bolts) and slowly let the engine down. You need the watch the muffler because on some Porsche it wants to catch on the license panel. when the engine is 10 or 12 inches down you can reach around the back of the engine a disconnect the top trans bolts throttle linkage and the starter wires. At that point the engine will slide back so now you must lower the engine until the fan housing is lower than the chassis cross brace in the back. when the fan will clear, pull back on the jack and engine at the same time and it's out.
My best time for a 2.4 MFI engine is 22 minutes. Star to finish including draining the oil. For that I won a $3 burger and some fries. Times have changed.
good luck.
PS: Don't try this on a 90 or later car.

don hopkins · 11-07-2005, 10:43 AM

How high does the car need to be jacked to allow the engine to clear the body? My jack goes to a height of 13.5". Is that enough?

KobaltBlau · 11-07-2005, 11:18 AM

Thanks for sharing that hard won experience, Henry.

22 minutes!

love the "don't try this on a 90 or later car"

Cheers,

don hopkins · 11-07-2005, 03:38 PM

I have heard some people recommend using a motorcycle jack. Is this a good way to go? I have to buy a new jack b/c I don't think my current jack will lift the car high enough. I think you need to lift the car about 25 inches to allow the engine to clear the rear bumper.

Henry Schmidt · Henry Schmidt's Garage

If you put the jack at the bulkhead (about 2/3 the length of the car) you find that a floor jack that goes up 20 inches plus the 2 inches provided by the 2x4 will raise the rear of the car about 30 inches. Plenty high for even a CIS engine to clear.
Good luck.

Jeff Alton · 11-08-2005, 04:48 PM

plan on at least 30 inches of clearance between the lower edge of the rear valance and the ground.

Cheers

NevenM · 11-10-2005, 11:26 AM

Henry

Love the description, I think you missed telling how you wired up the trans to stop it falling. Did you ever forget the shift coupler and bend something? As a kid I had a 56 VW and only one trolley jack so I used to drop the vw motor onto a piece of ply & packers rolling on golf balls and jack the body off it!

Neven

Plavan · Plavan's Garage

Sorry, could not resist....

Henry Schmidt · Henry Schmidt's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by NevenM
Henry

Love the description, I think you missed telling how you wired up the trans to stop it falling. Did you ever forget the shift coupler and bend something? As a kid I had a 56 VW and only one trolley jack so I used to drop the vw motor onto a piece of ply & packers rolling on golf balls and jack the body off it!

Neven

You're right. The trans does need to be supported if you plan to leave it in.
I was just answering the question, "best way to jack the car to remove the engine.

Have I ever forgoten to disconnect the shift coupler? No, but one of my mechanics did some 15 years ago and you should have heard the snap when the nose cone broke!