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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 30
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Well, with help from Wayne's book and a copy of the Porsche manuals, I managed to get my motor out of my 76 turbo with nothing broken. I did break the hose from the engine to the bottom of the oil tank trying to remove it earlier in the day (it was old and brittle anyway). Compared to removing a small block Chevy from a Suburban or a CJ-5, it was a breeze. The next step is to get it up on the engine stand and start the tear-down process.
Of course I told my wife that since I had all this easy access with the engine out, it would only be right to do some work on the rear end (the Porsche's of course). I figure new bushings, wheel bearings, bushings and possibly CVs. Any other suggestions to add while I have the engine out? On another note: does anyone know what the general cost is to have the heads "twin-plugged? ![]() Everything done and ready to descend. ![]() All the way down. ![]() Nothing dangling or still hooked up. ![]() The celebration for success. (I had to drink the engine's beer) Looks like I need to change the date on my camera! That will be more complicated than everything else I did today!
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1976 930, mostly stock Fly fast, drive fast! 1.19 Mach is my record Love my 930 Hate Seattle traffic Believe in the 10% rule |
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Doesn't want/need a 3.6L
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Re: Busted cherry
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![]() Regarding your twin-plug question, I would budget $300-$400 for the heads and lower valve covers. Price will vary somewhat depending on where you take them. Good luck on your rebuild! ![]() Ralph |
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+ lurking - contributing
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 631
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Tell us details about the ramps you car is on, looks interesting, but effective!
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87 930 96 BMW M3 Coupe 89 951 08 Astra H Peugeot moped |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 30
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Since I wanted to save the maximum amount of money to buy parts and have machine work done, I decided to do everything myself. I do not have access to a lift so I made two elevated platforms out of 2"x10"x10' with 1/2" shear plywood on the sides. There are five "2x10 studs every 20 inches inside for support plus a few metal "X" braces for structural rigidity. I figured out the lift of my jack and the height of the bottom of the motor and made the finished height 16".
Everything went according to plan up until I loosened the last engine mount bolt. Yes, I forgot to figure out the unladen weight and the effect that would have on the suspension. The result: the back of the car instantly rose 6 inches! Scared the s..t out of me because at first I thought the jack had collapsed. Anyway, the hole you see in the end of the platform was were I put a 3' long piece of iron pipe so I could jack up each side of the car for that final lift needed to get the engine out from under the bumper. (you can see the first brick and the jack in the second photo. Two bricks worked fine). When I go to put the engine back in I will just remove the wheels and brakes and that will lower it the needed six inches. The ramps are 2"x6" on edge with plywood on top attached with joist hangers and a safety strap. The total cost of the project was less than $100.00 and I can use it for my other cars to do work underneath and change the oil. Each platform weighs about 50 pounds so you can move them into the shed when not in use. It is definetely less dangerous than jacking up the car and using jackstands plus it gives you the perfect height for laying on a roller and working under a car. I will add a few more pictures of the ramps and platforms plus a drawing for those that are interested. Minimal skills at woodwork required and it all goes together with an electric drill and wood screws. The engineer types out there might be able to figure out the structural loads more precise than but I came up with over 3000 pounds.
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1976 930, mostly stock Fly fast, drive fast! 1.19 Mach is my record Love my 930 Hate Seattle traffic Believe in the 10% rule |
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Registered
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You are looking in the ball park of a few thousand dollars in machine work. The cleaning they will do on your case is most important when you get to the reassembly stage. The inspection of your parts is very important too. I would let an expert machine shop do its part (cleaning/inspecting) at least clean the case and inspect your the oil pump. Ofcourse do the heads (price can vary depending on whether you go with all new components or just replace any bad valves), and it is the best time for machine work for twin plugging the heads.
Oh and I have to say something about the lift too ![]() Good luck. Regards,
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Bernard |
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Forced Induction Junkie
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Ok, now how did you get the car up on the stands?
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Dave '85 930 Factory Special Wishes Flachbau Werk I Zuffenhausen 3.3l/330BHP Engine with Sonderwunsch Cams, FabSpeed Headers, Kokeln IC, Twin Plugged Electromotive Crankfire, Tial Wastegate(0.8 Bar), K27 Hybrid Turbo, Ruf Twin-tip Muffler, Fikse FM-5's 8&10x17, 8:41 R&P |
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