you guys probably never had to deal with this from the sounds of it.

Hello, John.

No, I've snapped plenty trust me!

However, as I get older I get more patient I guess..and with enough heat and stuff, I reckon most of them can be got out eventually..

Whether its quicker/chaeaper to just snap and drill out..not sure..can be bloody difficult from below, as you know much better than me!

What do you do now John?

Kind regards
David

heat helps sometimes, but rarely. the steel just gets a grip in the aluminum threads and rust and corrosion lock it in there. if it comes out, fine, if not cut them flush and drill 'em out, preferably with "a quiet boom's" special tool. if you drill off-center it will be hard to get the exchanger back on without elongating the hole in the flange. that would not be easy with the thick style flanges.

trick I learned years ago
 

A long time ago in my sports car club newsletter, someone submitted a "tech tip" for removing tough studs.
I've done it many times and it works!

Heat the head with a torch and then touch the stud with an ordinary CANDLE.

let is cool a bit and it should come out easily.

Might be worth a try?

Jeff

Thanks John.

I guess you are right..it is a slow process freeing them up and very difficult in the car...I do not have the Quiet Boom jig..I'll get one..

Admission.have drilled off centre more than once..

It is a lot of work to drop the engine and strip the top end just to get at the studs with a proper bench drill..

Yes, I've used candle wax, as posted above..and it does work quite often...

It is a bit tricky to get the head boss hot enough , and quite easy to do damage with the acetylene flame of course..I've even wondered about getting some acid in there...

Kind regards
David

John Walker keeps refering to "my tool" when in fact he had the original design. I happen to have a CNC mill and I'm making them for sale. Many of the folks who have used this tool have drilled so well that the studs threads come out like a spring. Using this fixture ensures a hole right down the center of the stud leaving only the threads behind, if the threads in the head are badly damaged at least you have a straight hole in the right location for a timecert. I've sold a bunch of these and gotten good feedback for the most part and since the original design I have modified the tool for better fin clearance as well as added a threaded hole to insert a long bolt for use as a handle in the even the tool is overly tight in the port. I'd be glad to post pics of the tool if you're interested.

Ken, thanks for the order BTW.

no prob waiting for it to get here, I put int my 964 cams today only to find out the had sent the wrong set, so it will take a while to get that all sorted out i guess