Here is a link to a thread I just started about confusion (mine) around deck height measurements...... Give it a read and help me out!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/278933-deck-height-questions.html

Thanks

Mike, the case repair is now obviously done. I could start a whole new thread on that fiasco. It would probably save some folks the headaches that I went through or maybe just provide a few laughs for folks at my expense!! :)

Here is a breif synopsis: (all shops that screwed up shall remain nameless!!)

1. Broke stud trying to remove it
2. Attemtped all manner of removal from welding a nut on to vise grips etc.
3. A buddy at work says "Hey, I guy I used to work with at Kenworth has a machine shop, he can get that out no problem, plus he owes a few favours...)
4. That bonehead calls up and says "uhhhhhh come get this thing before I ruin it anymore!) WTF?? He says, "at least I did not charge you"
5. Drink a bottle of my favourite Sanoma Cabernet while I search the Pelican classifieds for a new case.
6. Take it our favourite machine shop (who do great work for me) and say "can you help me out? They send me off to a guy in North Van who is supposedly "the man"
7. "the man" does get the stud and everything else out that was in there from shop #1, does a nice weld repair. He does not re drill it becuase I am going to take it to my head guy (you know who that is) to have it drilled and a timesert put in it.
8. Drop it off with Lance (there I named someone!!) And he says "uhhhhh shoulda brought it here in the first place" Don't I know it!! :)
9. Lance starts to drill and finds that "the man" has plugged the bloody hole with a steel plug just below the surface!! Hello, anyone home?? WTF? Drink a half dozen Sleemans cream ale while I search Pelican and E-Bay again, then decide to try to finish the other 6 beer in the case.
10. Wake up with one heck of a head ache and realize the phone is ringing.... It is Lance and he had the repair finished and he has milled the spigots (all it took was 1.5 thou) to true them up.
11. head ache is now magically gone and I drive out to pick it up.

Amazingly, this whole mess only cost $160.00 to get fixed and about 5 hours driving around and a $50 bottle of wine and a $23 case of beer!!

What a deal! Great, now that I told that story I am so fired up I will never get to sleep! :)

If someone can figure out the moral of the story, please, let me know!!

Cheers

Never give up.



;)

More than once I was going to set the damn car on fire and watch it burn!!!! He he he

Cheers

I just wish I had the motor lol. Having time to sort out little things with the engine out is very nice though. Just finished some of the fuel system up today.

Out of curiosity how did you settle on the brain you are going to use? When I opened up the box and saw the unterminated wiring harness I was definately a bit apprehensive. Then you figure out that you only use a small portion of them (in my case at least) but its still nerve wracking figuring it all out. Get yourself a multimeter if you dont have one. My wiring harness had some different color wires than what was stated in the manual so double and triple checking is a must.

I cut out a big hole in the bulkhead to pass the wires through into the engine bay. I am currently figuring out how long everything needs to be, what wont be used, all that nonsense. Then I will pull it all back out, shrink wrap it and put connectors on and put it back in the car for the arrival of the motor. I hate extra wires.

On the Jenveys, putting them together is pretty easy and straightforward. I would like some input from others who have used them to know if they used Loctite on anything or other little tricks they came up with. The balancing and syncing is very easy to do I found. The linkage is wonderful but your going to need to figure out a way to use a cable pull. FWIW I am making a bracket to go onto the trans with a cable stop and go from the bellcrank to the TB linkage with a bike cable. I also mounted the TPS on the front of the throttle for easy visual inspection and access if it needs to be adjusted or changed.

If you go the bike cable route for the throttle go with Shimano XTR cables and housings. I have ridden bikes for more than half my life and none really stack up. You can also get a little rubber "worm" that sits over the exposed portion to keep out contaminants. Also you can buy Dura-Ace grease in small packets, I lube all my cables with this stuff, its awesome. Spendier but whats a couple extra bucks after your going ITB and EFI on a Porsche motor?

Cheers, cant wait to know how your electronics install goes!

Hey, how about this?

I have chased a water leak problem for FOUR years on my 96 Targa and as part of that harassed MCL/Porsche for 14 months. IT turned out to be rust in the top since Porsche did not bother to galvanize the Targa tops (they are sublet to a different manufacturer). I eventually, after writing Peter Swarzenbauer, the BBB and threatening legal action managed to "convince" Porsche to supply a brand new Targa top under their 10 year rust warranty for my car. Don't forget this is the new all-glass sliding tops worth about $20K CDN. I signed the warranty release on the LAST day of the warranty. As part of the process my 993 has not been driven for over a year since the roof was taken apart (by me) as part of the process. I now have finished the engine but the car is still down at the body shop (Korva) waiting to get the paint done.....

What have I learned? "Never Never give up!"

Cheers,

MIke

The true moral of the story is that 98% of shops have baboons working for them who couldn't maintain employment in any other field, so they drifted to the bottom of the pile where they religously brutalize machinery through their own ignorance.

In the end, do EVERYTHING possible yourself, because even the smallest tasks sent out will come back a disaster.

Kirk

Not meant to be cruel, but for all of you whinning about machine work, I have no sympathy. Where I live, getting "anything", done to a 911 is like climbing Everest backwards and barefoot. You need to drink a bottle of your favorite, plus the beer, just to get in the mood to give it a try. But the waves are good! Oh ya, that is when the state hasn't dumped 50 mil. gallons of untreated turds in the water.

I actually wasn't whinning, at least I wasn't trying to. I was simply relating a story of how the repair got done when I was asked in the previous post. I attempted to add a little humor to it to make it a better read for people. I know, and said in another thread, that it was my fault for not taking it to the right place right in the beginning......

Cheers

Absolutely understand Jeff. I think I'm the one whinning. It's impossible to get many things done locally that seem so easily done on the mainland. It can be very frustrating-- Hope your project is going well.

Hope you can get the top end buttoned up with a good deck height. How are things going with the ITB's?

Ordered and waiting, the ecu is about 3 weeks out as well. The heads are still a couple of weeks away.....

Not to worried about getting to the correct deck height, but I still need to measure the actual CR as well.

How is your motor comming?

Cheers

Calling up my machinist tomorrow because supposedly stuff is done. Head down thursday to pick it all up and put it together this weekend. Need to get a buret, multimeter, new calipers (mine fritzed out) and measure head volume, deck height bla. Get it together hopefully by sunday. Get it in the car to measure out wires lengths. Pull both looms out, shrink wrap, pop on connectors and put it back in. Still waiting for injectors, AFR meter with 02 sensor, 6th coil, software, trigger wheel, dizzy hole block off and crank sensor mount. Oh still have to drill out my inner cv hubs to make it a 6 bolt because the trans has modded 996 drive flanges. So I will be plenty busy, oh and I need to pickup some bike cable and make a cable standoff mount on the trans. Should have all that done by monday hopefully.

Just wait until you see all the wires!!!! Lol, its not bad because you only use a few. I might start another post or just continue on the one I started with the pics. Cheers

Here is a good link to CR testing http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Engine/compression.htm

I have not got my burette etc yet, but think I will probably just order one of the "kits" available from some of the major amerian parts suppliers.

I am interested in your solution to the throttle "problem"... I was unaware this was an issure. Oh well, what the hell, what is one more thing for me to engineer, right? Can't even get time to work on the bloddy thing, doing most of my "business" at others houses or garages right now as my car is tying up all my space!! Not that I am complaining, but I think this years track season is a right off for me.

Cheers

Before getting the kit I figured the linkage kit supplied by Jenvey hooked onto the throttle plate and bellcrank on the motor so I simply made a little bracket that would hold a cable end and modded the arm to hold a cable end. When I put the assembled throttles on my engine shroud and placed the throttle link plate on there I noticed the offset was more than I liked for a cable. You could run a silly long cable in a circle to get to the linkage but I dont like clutter. So the new plan is this.

Modify the the bellcrank arm that mounts on the transmission to hold a cable end. Make a simple bracket to hold the cable housing. This will mount on the forward most sideplate cover studs which are vertical and drop a near perpendicular line to the bellcrank arm. From this point the cable will run over the top of the sideplate cover up the engine bay most likely through a new hole in the engine tin to line it up directly with the linkage pull on the throttles. I wanted to keep the cable up high, the bellcrank lends itself to this nicely, it will be away from the driveshafts. I am also considering mounting it on the two studs which hold the diff housing area whatever its called to the center section of the trans because the spacing is wider so I can make it a bit more stable. Only problem I foresee is blocking off the trans fill plug but taking off two nuts isnt a big deal. I might also take my extra bellcrank piece, chop it up and reweld it a bit to get the arm which will pull the cable closer in on the trans and enable the bracket to not stick out as far. I will try this tomorrow hopefully, if not then friday and post pics with what I come up with. I dont see this as a huge hurdle, just the chance to make a nice little piece and see if I can improve things a tad, cheers!

how are things going? waiting for valves now, chased threads and checked out a DP car and some GT3's yesterday but thats about it.

Looks like the job is coming along great!

Is your case really that clean or is it just the pictures? What did you use on it?

Kirk

It is really that clean! I put it through the jet wash and that did most of it (it was pretty clean to begin with, no oil leaks) and then used some simple green on it with a scotch brite and clean water. The inside was quite shiny, the outside is not as shiny as the picture suggests but is very close!

Cheers

Hmm,

I will have to try the simple green on my case as well. I had mine steam cleaned, and I have been using scotch brite pads with varsol. but it doesnt look that good!

I have some spare time since I am still waiting for my parts to come back from machining.

Kirk

I used simple green on mine and one of those nylon bristle cups on a drill -

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1146669605.jpg