Funny Because:

I did the same thing. I was getting ready to seal up the cases and when I looked at my #8 nose bearing I realised it was missing the dowel pin. I had to order one from porsche.

Kirk

Even worse, I had mine last week!

That hurts!
I didn't even remember there being one there, so I don't know where mine got lost. probably during case cleaning. It hurts your feelings a little more when you know its still in the garage somewhere.
On the positive side, its only a couple bucks.

Kirk

Sunday nap - Case is sealed!
 

While the 2 year old slept, another milestone was reached. My .25 part arrived late in the week and I was ready to continue sealing up the case.

Ready to do the sealing
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153104886.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153104903.jpg

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My "crew" of 11 year old boy and 40yr old virgin engine builder, doing the case thru bolt torque. Don't get too upset, but that is his M Coupe in the background :)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153104956.jpg

Looks like good squeeze out from the case sealant
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153104969.jpg

I used the sealing strategy outlined here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/284737-complete-engine-sealant-thread.html

This stage required:

Outer Case Halves: Threebond 1104
Bearing Saddle Surfaces: Loctite 574
#8 Bearing (balancer end) O-Ring: Threebond 1211
Case Thru Bolts: Dow Corning 111 on Green Viton O-Rings
Balancer Seal: Curil-T

I used a few changes from the Wayne book. I put the engine assembly lube on the crankshaft and intermediate shaft instead of on the bearings in the left engine case. I also left the rear main seal until later in the process. Overall, things went very smoothly. The use of a slightly modified "Sharpie" cap was key for the thru bolt o-rings, this appears to completely replace special tool 9500!

Missed this shot
 

Here is the left case half with the sealant applied:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153105692.jpg

Looks great!
I wish I had more time to take pics of my case with the sealant applied.

Where is the 'money shot' of the engine sealed up with the two timing gears sitting on the chains? Isn't that part of the picture prerequisites? :)

Kirk

I have not cleaned the gears yet, so that pic is not yet available. "Coming soon".

Nice progress Chris, I really appreciate you and Kirk posting your progress as I will be tearing down a 3.6 I picked up from LvSteveH for my 3.5 turbo engine. I'm assuming that the sealant squeeze out that occurs in the case isn't a major issue as long as you don't go overboard applying it? Thanks, Mike

Mike - I think that you want to see some small amount of squeeze out, that assures that you have covered the entire surface. As you noted, going overboard is not desired with the threebond products, but with the loctite it is likely harmless since it will not harden very well in the presence of air. I'm going to take a look at the excess today, the threebond instructions note 3 days to full strength.

Sat Afternoon
 

Some more progress. Installed the Factory Racing Studs ( Edit: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/270137-name-stud.html ). Had already chased the stud holes with a bottom tap before cleaning the case. Used Blue Loctite per Henry. Got them mildly tight with a Facom stud tool (uses metal rollers to pinch the stud on a non-threaded section. Studs measured out correctly per the spec book and factory manual for both uninstalled length and installed height.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153626053.jpg

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153626079.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153626092.jpg

Late evening
 

Installed the Oil breather cover, used 1211 on both sides of the gasket.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153626308.jpg

Earlier today I installed an upgrade - the engine mounted oil filter (993 part) and 965 Oil sensor mounting plug, along with a new blockoff plug on the upper oil galley. This involved pulling the _very_ large factory blockoff plugs (machine shop had to drill, tap and slide hammer), cleaning up the sealing ring surfaces on the case, installing 3 8mm studs (I happened to have some stainless steel ones...) and then fastening the housing to the case.

This evening I tried to install the oil pressure and temp senders. The pressure sender worked fine. The temp sender does not have matching threads for the 965 part. I'm using a numeric oil temp guage in stock 87 gauges, so this might be a minor annoyance to get right. Does anyone have any clues on the best way to solve this one? I suspect I need to get a 965 oil temp sensor and see if that is at all compatible with the guage.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153626472.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153626502.jpg

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153626708.jpg

Setback and going forward
 

Well - I had a bit of a setback. Seems the RSR pistons I had would not accept the stock 964 rod. I only found this _after_ assembling the case (see above). Ouch. So, time for new rods. LN Engineering has excellent rods from R&R that I think look "nice" and are available. So Charles sent me a rod (_very_ nice), and I did a deck height measurement to see if the pistons possibly require a longer rod (I am leaving nothing to chance at this point). Deck height using the Wayne book method is 1.4mm. This is great for a stock engine, a bit high from a high performance engine standpoint (using the book as a guide).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154390216.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154390238.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154390251.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154390264.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154390278.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154390290.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154390301.jpg

The trials and tribulations of the unfortunate discovery/oversight are documented here http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/294971-964-3-8-rsr-small-end-rod-side-clearance-piston-how-much-not-enough.html

Another thing I found was that the racing studs do not neck down after the threads end, so I will need a hardened washer (perhaps from an older engine - I will check my parts boxes) under each head nut (assuming the stock 964 head nuts) to assure that I am not trying to cut threads into the stud material.

I have now spent more time taking measurements around the piston and averaging them. I think with some degree of certainty that my deck height is 1.30 mm. So all other things being equal, I want less deck. Machine the bottoms of the cylinders is one way to get that, or the top for that matter. An eliptical rod bushing, or one that is set higher (closer to the small end of the rod) is another - I like that idea since I need new rods...

Thoughts?

I found the deck height was tightest right at the cylinder wall. I ended up placing a small piece of solder sideways in the curve of the cylinder, then crushing it and reading the deck height.

Your solder doesnt look like its getting right to the edge? Or is it just the way the pics show it?

Kirk

Kirk - when I did the second round of measurements, that is exactly what I did. Your comments in the 3.6 rebuild thread you are doing made me check the work again. I put a 1/8" strip at the four points of the compass and measured that way. No pics of that though :)

Have you thought about just ordering a set of Carillo rods? They could probably get them for you pretty quickly. Any word on how long it will be until this other shop is setup to get them to you?

Kirk

Pauter will have 'em too, excellent rods, cheers, Ant.