14 Year Hibernation - What now?

[cp0009]

I have a 1969 911T that has about 48,000 miles on it that has been sitting for about 14 years without being driven. Some fuel was left in the gas tank, so at the least I think I'm in for a carb rebuild. However, what is the best way to proceed with the engine? Does it need to be taken apart and resealed or should I change the oil, crank it up and see if it leaks? Any other suggestions about what else might need to be done? This was given to me by my father and I plan on keeping it awhile.

Thanks

Cam

[asphaltgambler]

Do you have any history? Was it just parked for keepsake or did someone park it because of mechaincal issues?

[cp0009]

It was parked for the winter and never came back out. It was running perfectly before it was parked, so no issues with the engine before. The only issue we had was the 1st gear synchro had worn out.

Thanks

Cam

[viejopatron]

Drain every fluid. Flush and flush again. The goals is to purge all the moisture and crap that's settled. I think you're in for rebuilding some things like carbs and calipers, but the really smart fellas here will guide you on that. Good luck and enjoy.

[asphaltgambler]

Ditto.

[beepbeep]

You'd want to remove/flush the gas tank and blow trough fuel lines with compressed air. All rubber fuel hoses should be replaced. Take off vavle covers and check cam lobes for corrosion/pitting. Oil should be changed soon again after engine is started.

[cp0009]

Thanks for the advice!

Aside from rebuilding carbs and calipers, the plan is to flush the gas tank and fuel lines, drain & refill trans and engine and run for about 100 miles and then drain and refill again. Also bleed all of the brake lines as well.

Any other advice is welcomed.

Thanks again for the information.

Cam

[Rob 930]

I'd proceed very slowly. Fourteen years is a very long time. I sure hope it was garaged, and that the moisture in your garage was low.

I suggest some or all of the following:

Drain the oil and look at it. Is there water in it? Take off the sump screen and plate. See if it looks okay. Any rust? Hope not. Look around in the engine through the open sump plate hole. Corrosion is your big enemy. If you see any, anywhere, there will be lots of it everywhere. The place where I'd be most concerned is in the cylinders, though. Don't be in a hurry to turn over the engine.

Pull all the spark plugs and look at them. Consider looking inside the cylinders with a borescope to see the condition of the cylinder walls. Piston rings can rust to the cylinder wall surface -- you have cast iron cylinders and ferrous rings on a 911T. They can rust and seize solidly, or at least, they can deteriorate so that there's an area of corrosion where they've been in contact for all this time. If you're able to rotate the crank, then the pistons and rings can move, but a corroded area can quickly damage the rings and pistons, necessitating replacement. Consider introducing some lubricant into the cylinders before even moving the crankshaft. Marine stores sell a "foaming" lube for engine storage that coats the cylinder walls where they would otherwise be hard to reach. Gently, with a wrench on the crankshaft, see if the crank rotates. If not; you may cry. You'll be in for big repairs.

There could be corrosion in lots of other bad places, including on the rocker arms or shafts, cams, or in the valve train. I'd recommend at least pulling one valve cover to inspect. Other things can happen: mice can build nests on top of cylinders and block the cooling, things can live in your exhaust system, creepies and crawlies may have taken up residence here and there. And chain tensioners, especially if you have the old ones, may have collapsed, so you have to proceed slowly.

If you can confirm to your satisfaction that the engine turns over by hand, then with fresh oil in the tank, crank the engine with the starter, with the plugs out, until you can confirm you have oil pressure. Listen for any unpleasant noises, including chain problems. During that time, check for spark at the spark plugs. Then introduce clean fuel to the carbs and see if it will start.

I've been down this road several times -- once with a 1969 911T that had sat for 17 years. I wasn't very lucky. The pistons had rusted solidly to the cylinder walls. Even with the heads off, no amount of force or heat would break them loose. I eventually had to cut the cylinders and pistons off using a 4.5 in grinding wheel, just so I could split the case. It was painful and ugly, but there was nothing else that could be done. We'll all hope you're in better shape with your car. Apparently, mine had been put away in 1980 after vain attempts by the previous owner to start it with starter fluid. I suspect the ether washed down the cylinder walls, allowing corrosion to set in.

If, by chance, you end up with repairs on your hands, I still have many of the engine parts from that motor, in case you're interested or need any. I have the case, crank, rods, cams, cam towers, rockers, cover plates, chain housings, engine tin, top fiberglass shroud and who knows what else. I might even have a couple pistons and cylinders -- cut in half!

Good luck

Rob

[cp0009]

Thanks Rob!! Great advice, hadn't thought about moisture locking the pistons in place. I may get back with you to see about buying the extra parts just to have them on hand.

I'm really hoping it's not that bad, but I guess we'll see.

Regards,

Cam

[Rob 930]

Cam.

I'd certainly hope yours is okay. But being that mine wasn't, I thought I'd share what I found. Fortunately, I bought it knowing the engine wouldn't turn over, but I was amazed at how seriously "frozen" it was and how difficult it was to take it apart.

Rob