Reviving a 20 year dormant 3.2

[Amstaff]

I have a 3.2 from a 1988 From a theft recovery car that has not been on the road since around 1997. When parked it had 65,000 miles on it. Besides the basics, what should I do to it before putting it back into service?

Would it make sense to take it apart for inspection? I hear they are hard on valve guides, should I send them out for a rebuild even though the mileage is low?

Thanks in advance for your input

[Flat6pac]

If you’re going to take it apart, get the heads done and the studs.
Problems will be in the fuel system. If it turns over, go with it.
Fresh injectors would be first call.
Bruce

[Amstaff]

I know studs are an issue on a 3.0, I replace mine during my last rebuild but is it an issue with the 3.2 too?

Injectors will be sent out for service.

[mikedsilva]

I've been learning a lot watching car restoration shows on Netflix.. apparently when you get a really old car that has not been run in 30 years or more, all you do is give it gas, turn the key, and rev the bejesus out of it! If it runs, you high five each other on a job well done!

Sorry for the sarcasm... I stumbled across a show called Rust Bros ... Canadian.. one of those shows that was so tragic I couldn't NOT watch it...

Back to your engine.. I just rebuilt a 3.2 which had 3 broken dilavar studs.. they will break.

[trond]

i would see if it starts. fresh oil obviously, filters and gas. Build oil pressure on the starter, flush fuel lines from tank through rails and back to tank, then check for spark and fuel through injectors then see if it runs

[chrismorse]

I can't figure out how to post a link, but I asked a similar question about resurrecting a CIS after a 6 year sleep and Henry responded with a couple of posts from Grady that were extensive and thorough.
I have changed the oil and filter, will fogg the cylinders with oil, check the valve adjustment and cyl head torque, drop the engine to facilitate checking the cis FD plunger, pull the injectors, (including the cold start) to flush the fd, lines and injectors, without dumping a lot of gas into the cold start manifold and cylinders, check and lube the distributor, replace fuel lines, filter,tank, (perforated), pump, (questionable and not compatible with front mount and new lines from Len Cummings), THEN, spin the engine without plugs to get the oil moving, install new plugs, battery and premium gas.
Turn the key and seei if it will run.
Grady has a lot to say about the importance of breaking in the engine again to avoid catastrophe.

Brake calipers, fluid, lines, front wheel bearings, possibly CVs, tranny gear oil, all likely need attention too.
Good luck,
chris

[Amstaff]

The motor is out of the car. I will have the injectors done but I guess my questions are:
For a good long term engine should the head studs be replaced?

Do you think after sitting that long will it leak like a sieve? Should I take it apart and reseal it?

Besides the injectors themselves, do the injector system need any service?

[Flat6pac]

Unlike CIS the only fuel is in the rails and connecting hoses
Bruce

[Richey]

I think head studs should be a low priority now . Follow above guidelines and inspect the timing chain tensioners .

[safe]

Headstuds are an issue for 3.2s also. But no need to tear it down now unless there is more issues.

[Tippy]

I wouldn't touch the low end, it'll be prisine at that low of miles. Maybe do the valve guides as others have stated and put in new studs like 993TT.

If it's going to be a screamer, maybe new ARP rodbolts?

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by Amstaff

I have a 3.2 from a 1988 From a theft recovery car that has not been on the road since around 1997. When parked it had 65,000 miles on it. Besides the basics, what should I do to it before putting it back into service?

Would it make sense to take it apart for inspection? I hear they are hard on valve guides, should I send them out for a rebuild even though the mileage is low?

Thanks in advance for your input

Well.. the first question should be whether you can turn the engine over manually.
Valve guides aren't as much of a problem as the springs no longer being within tolerance. The guides are only as good as the supporting equipment around them.

I'd say, take the chain box covers off and inspect the chains and chain guides. Pull the valve covers off and manually inspect inside. Having someone turn the engine while you look at each intake and exhaust valve move up and down.

Like other have said... your fuel system will be a concern.

It all depends on what environment the car was left sitting in. A car sitting in a climate control garage will hold up better than car sitting outside. Also, if the climate has 100 degree changes in temperature, that will make it harder on the components with all that expansion and contraction of the metal components.

[Amstaff]

The car was indoors for probably 15+ years but the last few years of its life it was under a tarp in northern Tennessee.

[Amstaff]

The car was indoors for probably 15+ years but the last few years of its life it was under a tarp in northern Tennessee.

No joke, there was a huge nest in the frunk when I got the car. Probably from an opossum!

[Amstaff]

So the Motor turns over smoothly. I pulled the exhaust and there is a bunch of oil in the right side. The heads look oily inside so I am thinking it is in need of a head rebuild. So, if I am taking down that far I guess I will split the case and at least reseal it. Went ahead and got a Wrightwood gasket set. Look for my step by step rebuild in th near future.

[Trakrat]

Originally Posted by Amstaff

So the Motor turns over smoothly. I pulled the exhaust and there is a bunch of oil in the right side. The heads look oily inside so I am thinking it is in need of a head rebuild. So, if I am taking down that far I guess I will split the case and at least reseal it. Went ahead and got a Wrightwood gasket set. Look for my step by step rebuild in th near future.

If you split the case, you will need to send the case out to be machined, hot tanked, etc.... Once you split the case, you need to commit at doing a full rebuild.

Unless you have a definitive reason to split the case, I would just leave it alone and replace with new gaskets and reseal what you can... like chain covers, oil breather, etc...

Splitting the case can cause old sealant material and other 'things' to come loose and fall inside, as well as moving everything out of alignment and making it 'out of round'.

[safe]

Originally Posted by Amstaff

So the Motor turns over smoothly. I pulled the exhaust and there is a bunch of oil in the right side. The heads look oily inside so I am thinking it is in need of a head rebuild. So, if I am taking down that far I guess I will split the case and at least reseal it. Went ahead and got a Wrightwood gasket set. Look for my step by step rebuild in th near future.

Can be quite normal for oil to migrate over time into the exhaust. Clean them out put back on.

There is no certainty that the engine needs a rebuild because of this.

Change the oil, empty the fuel tank, fill with new fuel (like 2 gallons). Circulate the fuel by bridging the DME relay. Empty fuel again and fill with new fuel.
Try to start it. Fuel injectors might be clogged up if it doesn't start, if so send them away for cleaning or buy new ones.
Run it a few hundred miles before considering a rebuild, partial rebuild. You won't do any more damage than there already is and nothing that a rebuild later won't fix.

Starting a rebuild is a deep money pit to do it correctly and a budget "reseal" rebuild might not be better than what you have.

[Amstaff]

Originally Posted by safe

Can be quite normal for oil to migrate over time into the exhaust. Clean them out put back on.

There is no certainty that the engine needs a rebuild because of this.

Change the oil, empty the fuel tank, fill with new fuel (like 2 gallons). Circulate the fuel by bridging the DME relay. Empty fuel again and fill with new fuel.
Try to start it. Fuel injectors might be clogged up if it doesn't start, if so send them away for cleaning or buy new ones.
Run it a few hundred miles before considering a rebuild, partial rebuild. You won't do any more damage than there already is and nothing that a rebuild later won't fix.

Starting a rebuild is a deep money pit to do it correctly and a budget "reseal" rebuild might not be better than what you have.

The motor is out of the car and my plan was to either put it in my 72 which currently has a 3.0 in it or put it in my project 70 which I plan to start this fall. I did a complete rebuild on the 3.0 and yes, you can certainly spend some serious cash doing a rebuild. Good point on external gaskets. I can easily pull stuff like valve covers, chain cover etc and replace the gaskets. Maybe my first step on my 70 will be to install the motor so I can move it around. That way I can see if it has any health issues.

[Amstaff]

So another quick question

While pulling the injection system off some sand (not a lot but some) fell into the head, What is the best way to flush it out?

I thought about opening the valve and blowing air through the spark plug hole or flushing it out with diesel.

Ideas?

[Slovenia.motors]

Shop vac will be fine , we have clean several ex. military vehicles with missing manifolds with a lot of sand inside the heads...

Good luck