another oil pressure sender seal problem

[chancecasey]

OK, rebuild was running great, after 100 miles, I romped on it a bit, no problems. Then last night I took my neighbor for a spin, and thanks to that darn Y chromosome, I just had to hit the rev limiter, 3 times in fact

Well we pulled up to a stop light and it was smoking quite a bit. Turns out it's the oil pressure sender. Funny thing is, I don't remember it running this much pressure before but I could just be paranoid. There are 6 ticks on the pressure gauge - idles at tick number one, above 4500 rpm it's at tick 5 - near rev limit it's topped out at tick 6. Am I just reading too much into this in suspecting a blocked passage? Not sure how it would happen, I cleaned and air blasted them all thoroughly, so I'm discounting that for now and thinking I just have a bad o-ring.

I got a red o-ring in the rebuild kit and the local guys gave me a black one to replace. Black didn't look as beefy and the red one which was freshly used seemed a-ok. I DID put curil T on the mating surface between the block and sender body. You can see in the pick where it was basically blown out.

Hitting rev limit I guess was enough to blow by this red o-ring and blow the curil-T out, making an awful mess on what WAS my very clean engine.

I know Henry says just use a good viton ring. Is that the solution I should try? Is it green? Wondering if anyone else had a leak here the viton wouldn't stop, or if they used anything else like 1211 or something. THANKS!!!!

[BReyes]

Is there any chance the breather hose has a nonfunctioning valve that should be open, or a kink, what about took much oil, or simply- too much curil t?

No biggy though. Just cant blame it on your genetics, at least not your y chromo parts.

Regards,

[kirkf]

I know axl911 installed the red O-ring initially and it leaked, so he changed it out to the green viton o-ring and that solved the problem.

Kirk

[chancecasey]

Yep, well, I cleaned off all the curil-T and just used a green one - I assume that's the Viton. We'll see how it works out.

On another note, I removed my fan and the hub/bearing assembly to fix that knock. I removed the alt belt and held the alt pulley still with the engine running and the knock was still there - so I at least knew the fan bearing was shot. After taking it off, I could tell by how "grindy" the bearing was that it was gone. I'll post another topic about removing that thing...