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Don't ask me how, but I had the pin set aside and used in my last few test fits of the crank - but when I am _all_ ready to seal the case it goes missing! Arrgghhh!!
So I am begging - does anyone have one? If not, special order from PCNA I suppose ![]() Thanks,
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Chris https://dergarage.com ‘07 GT3, '80 SC Weissach (For SALE), '01 986S, '11 958S, '18 Stelvio, '18 Dursoduro 900 |
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 568
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If you are referring to the bearing positioning pin on the #8 bearing, I have succesfully used a screw of the right diameter and cut it to size. Engine still running and it did not care that it was not a real Porsche part.
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'76 911 "Moneypenny" daily driver '74 911 "JLo" IROC DE Car '03 CRV, '02 Jeep Grand Cherokee '03 Holiday Rambler Admiral SE, 30ft, 8.1l, 340HP, 455Ft# http://www.nicotra4.hpshare.net/BasketCaseMotorsports/ |
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Montana
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I'm no expert, but I think I read where John Walker said to use a drill bit. Find the right size to fit the hole and then cut the shank end to the correct length. I hope this helps.
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1982 930, K-27, BL adj. WUR, Rarlyl8 Headers and Hooligan muffler, PK CDI, 22 and 30mm torsion bars, poly bronze bushings 30mm raised spindles and custom valved Bilstein shocks (by Elephant Racing), monoballs front and rear (by Rennline), Alton 17" Fuchs, Fred Cook fuse panel |
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Thanks guys, both good suggestions. Part was .45 ($4 to ship!) and I will have in the next few days...
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Chris https://dergarage.com ‘07 GT3, '80 SC Weissach (For SALE), '01 986S, '11 958S, '18 Stelvio, '18 Dursoduro 900 |
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Mill Spring, N.C.
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Please don't forget to check every nook and cranny for the wayward piece. I would hate to hear that it reappeared inside your case after you complete the rebuild. A .45 cent part can certainly do thousands in damage. Good luck and keep us posted.
Art
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96 993 74 914 2.0 71 911 2.7 MFI RS clone |
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